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Found 113 results

  1. gwpics

    Taking a moment

    This is from my archive of images taken on a trip to Marrakesh, Morocco. Leica M6 + 50mm Summicron f2. Home-processed Ilford HP5+. Post processing in Lightroom Classic. Gerry
  2. Hallo zusammen, mein SF20 Blitz löst auf meiner M6 leider nicht nur beim auslösen aus sondern feuert auch beim spannen. Ist das ein Defekt? Kennt jemand die Lösung? Ganz herzlichen Dank für eure Hilfe Nicolas
  3. I am just working through some transparency work and scanning it on to the computer. I was particularly pleased with this one which was taken in 1999 on Kodachrome 64 using a Leica M6. Scanning was with a Plustek 8200i, and post was with LT Classic. I think it is amazing how the work we have just put away into a filing cabinet etc. has stood the test of time, and before there is "ah, well it is Kodachrome" some Fuji Provia RDP is just as good. Gerry
  4. From the album: My posts

    Digital copy of a slide (Velvia 50) shot w/ 1966 Summilux 35 on Leica M6 ttl

    © yes

  5. Hallo zusammen, ich brauche eure Hilfe zu dieser speziellen Art des Lichteinfalls. Ich habe mich durchs Forum gesucht und ein Beitrag hat mein Problem recht ähnlich beschrieben, nur waren die eingefügten Fotos "abgelaufen", da sie über einen Clouddienst eingespeist wurden. Zu meinem Problem: Ich habe aus einem Nachlass einige Leica Modelle erstanden. Die M6 ist gut erhalten, ohne markante Gebrauchsspuren. Die Zeiten laufen sauber, der Filmtransport geschmeidig. Ich habe einen Film in Innenräumen fotografiert = keine Auffälligkeiten. Dann habe ich 3 Filme im Außenbereich fotografiert = 7-8 Fotografien pro Film zeigten diesen - in der Form immer gleichbleibenden - Lichteinfall. Er verändert sich nur im Kontrast, mal stärker, mal schwächer. Es geht um die linke untere Ecke des Bildes. Es ist kein Zusammenhang zwischen dem zeitlichen Abstand zweier Aufnahmen erkennbar. Fotos, die ich schnell nacheinander gemacht habe, sind trotzdem betroffen und andere wiederum, wo Tage dazwischen liegen, zeigen diesen Defekt nicht auf. Objektivdeckel habe ich keinen drauf. Der Lichteinfall erstreckt sich bis zur Perforation. Ich fotografiere zum ersten Mal mit einer Leica. Wenn der Defekt links unten im Bild erscheint, dann heißt das, dass das Licht von oben rechts eintreten muss, richtig? Die Ösen der Halterung sitzen fest. Vielen Dank für eure Hilfe und ein schönes Wochenende Beste Grüße Marco
  6. einsam liegt es in der See M6, Makro-Elmar 90mm, Fuji Reala
  7. Hi all! Happy to be part of this group! I am really looking forward to the analog Leica rangefinder experience. I just shot my first roll of film this weekend and picked up my scans. However, I was a bit underwhelmed when I saw some artifacts that shouldn't have been there. I'm not sure what it is as I am unfamiliar with analog, so I thought it might be best to attach photos to describe what I'm seeing. I am curious to know if my copy of the M6 is defective, and what part is. First example, the bottom half of the photo is blacked out. What would be the cause for this? https://flic.kr/p/Z8c3YN Second Image, you can trace a faint blue line going from the center person's left calve all the way up past the dog's right eye: https://www.flickr.com/photos/101100257@N04/36814955114/sizes/l Third Image: Similar situation, a faint blue line going across the center (most obvious from his right arm): https://www.flickr.com/photos/101100257@N04/36814953464/sizes/l Fourth, is this light leaking from the top left corner? https://flic.kr/p/Y6dj47 I would greatly appreciate your insight. My gear: Leica M6 classic, Zeiss Biogon 35/2 Film: Fujifilm Fujicolor 200
  8. gwpics

    Devotion

    Taken in 2001 on a visit to Vienna using a Leica M6 and 50mm Summicron-M f2. Film is Kodak T400CN which was my favourite film because it was pretty much grain-free and easy to get processed. Post-processed in LRCC. Gerry
  9. gwpics

    The Copiest

    I took this in the Louvre in Paris in 2002. I have just scanned it to add it to my archive. The camera was certainly the M6 and probably the lens was the 35mm Summicron I had back then. It was taken on Agfa Vista 800 colour film, which I have no rational explanation for now because I can't imagine me ever using it. The grain is pretty big, but through judicious use of LRCC I think I have gotten away with it at this size, or at least I hope so! I do like the result. Gerry
  10. Another from my first visit to Italy in March 1999. This was taken in Montepulciano (Tuscany/Toscana) using a Leica M6 with Tri-X film but I have no other details recorded. Looking at the image I would assume 50mm Summicron f2. Gerry
  11. Taken in 2002 using a Leica M6 but I am afraid I have no further details as i have mislaid the negative: Gerry
  12. Taken in the Soho area of London in 1999 and just discovered whilst trawling through my negatives. It would have been Leica M6 and is Tri-X. Gerry
  13. Hi, I'm new here and I created my account because I desperately need help with this and would be grateful for any help I've been using my M6 for some time now and everything has been functioning perfectly However, when I bought some new batteries for it, the light meter would stop working, while if I put the old batteries back in, everything would work again. The batteries I have tested include, LR44 alkaline battery from energizer, and a CR-1/3N lithium battery. If anyone has any idea what the problem could be, and if there are any possible fixes, it would be greatly appreciated.
  14. Photos from a day spent hiking around the mountains near my hometown. All shot with my Leica M6, 35mm Summicron IV and on Kodak Portra 400 film. Would love to see you over on instagram: https://www.instagram.com/_philippw._/
  15. Shot this with my then newly acquired yet lovely beat up M6 classic. Expired Konica film and 50 cron. Walked into a tailor shop and snapped one of his creations. Something about this capture that works for me.
  16. gwpics

    Berber Children

    Two small Berber childen, one shoeless, and wearing dirty dresses sit outside their cave home in Tunisia. This is from 2002 when North Africa was a safer place to visit. I wonder where they are now? I used a Leica M6 and I think this was taken using the 50mm Summicron f2. Gerry
  17. I have just posted a new blog post at https://gerrywalden.wordpress.com/2016/09/05/just-one-roll-of-film/ which sabot a roll of film I shot in 2003 using a Leica M6 and (I think) a Summicron f2. It features 9 images in mono of a Mela in Southampton. Please take a look. Gerry
  18. Hello to all, I would like to request your help/advice. I currently own and use a Nikon F3, but feel the need for something new to help with street/travel photography. After doing a fair bit of research I have come up with buying either the M5 or the M6ttl. I can't actually go to a store and handle these cameras and I will be buying online, I am drawn to the M5 but the worry is I am buying something bigger than my F3 when I am looking for something less intimidating when on the street? however the shutter dial and viewfinder look like great additions. With the M5 it seems the Shutter speed in the viewfinder would also be useful and perhaps better than the LED's in the M6? Could anybody who owns an M5 post some size comparison photos to give me some idea of what it looks like next to the F3? How Do you find the M6 TTL, LED system? I will be predominantly using a 35mm and 50mm lens to start with. Any help you can offer is greatly appreciated, Thanks !
  19. Taken back in 1998 using a Leica M6 with 50mm Summicron-M f2 and Fuji Provia film. Recently scanned and post-processed in LRCC Gerry
  20. gwpics

    The Crickets

    Back in 1998 I went on a package tour to Beijing with my wife, but the images have lain pretty dormant in my filing cabinet since. I am now going through some of my older work and scanning it, and I was particularly pleased with this one which was shot on Fuji Provia using an M6 and Summicron-M f2. The exact details have been lost in the annal of time, but I think it was taken in the Forbidden City and shows a man who has brought his caged crickets out to enjoy the winter sunshine. I remember reading that Marc Ribaud )Magnum) had gone to China to photograph the Tiananmen Square 'happenings' in 1989 but had been so fascinated by people in the cafes with crickets he missed the main event. This then I guess is a sort of tribute to him.
  21. Hallo zusammen, ich schau mich grad nach einer M6 um. Hab dazu nur eine Frage, kann es sein, dass es auch Modelle (80er und früher) gibt, die keine Sucher-Kennung haben, also die kleine Zahl in der rechten unteren Ecke? Ist das dann immer ein 0.72 Sucher? Vielen Dank für eure Hilfe und beste Grüße vom Bodensee
  22. I shot this in Beijing in 1998 using a Leica M6 and 50mm Summicron f2 lens. The film was Tri-X. I have just got around to scanning it as part of my efforts to digitise many years of film images. I guess these streets have disappeared now since the rebuilding for the Olympics. I have just started shooting film again with a M7!
  23. I purchased in January my first Leica camera after using M mount lenses with adapter for several years on my mirrorless camera. Since I am more leaning towards B&W photography, I wanted to try a Leica rangefinder camera. I pretty quickly decided to go for a film-based M camera since I still have my own darkroom and can develop my own B&W film. I further narrowed down my choices by deciding for an in-camera light meter. Full manual was fine for me, and a camera which does not rely to work with a battery plus the well established reputation of the series made me choose the M6 (the non TTL model since I don't do a lot of flash photography). I purchased an used black M6 in very good shape manufactured in 1995 with 0.72x viewfinder. Since then I have used this camera very often - upfront I really like to work with it. There are some pros and cons which I thought are worthwhile to share from my experience. PROS + Great to see more than just the 100% view in the viewfinder. I find it easier to compose with the M6 than with any of my (D)SLRs or mirrorless cameras mostly due to seeing around and outside the framelines. + Focusing: Coming from (D)SLR and mirrorless, I needed first to get used to focus on the small focus rectangle in the middle of the frame - of course I overlooked it a few times in the beginning and forgot to focus accurately, but lesson learned! I am using my M6 mostly between 21 and 50 mm focal length - the focusing is very precise and indeed faster compared to using the same M lenses on my mirrorless Sony A7R body where it takes me longer to focus with the magnification tool in EVF. + Use of color filters for B&W photography: something which really annoyed me with SLRs and mirrorless cameras that I had to look through the lens with a dark yellow or red filter attached or remove the filter first, compose, and then re-attach the filter. With the rangefinder camera, it doesn't make a difference, I only see the difference in the exposure value. The viewfinder stays clear as always. For B&W film photography, this is a huge advantage! + Overall camera size: The M6 with M lenses is a very inconspicuous looking setup. During my shootings with this camera, only very few people asked me about the camera but more in the context of shooting film. The camera blends well in and does make it look like a P&S camera. + Built style of the M6: It is extremely well built. I like the full metal body with limited amount of plastic parts. Well balanced weight-wise with my M lenses, too. + Very silent shutter: at least compared to all of my other cameras which all have a mechanical shutter. Adds nicely to the silent and inconspicuous work possible with this camera. + External viewfinder: some might rather add this point into the cons section, but I see it as a positive for me so far. I am often using my 21 mm lens on the M6, so I bought the newer Voigtlander 21/25 external viewfinder. It is very bright, allows quite accurate composition. I even use the 21/25 external viewfinder with my CV 12/5.6 lens - using the hard borders of the viewfinder instead of the 21 mm frame lines, gives by accident exactly the view of the 12 mm lens. I got very quickly used to focus and expose through the regular camera viewfinder and then compose by looking through the external viewfinder. In dim light, the bright 21/25 viewfinder is really an advantage. + Film frame exposures: Since everything is done manually, I was always able to get 38-39 frames with a commercial 36 exposure film. Not bad! + No battery changes: sure, at some point the batteries also need to be changed to allow the light meter to function, but compared to my other digital cameras this is nothing. No need to be afraid to have Li batteries drained quickly in the cold etc.....you simply shoot and shoot with the M6. CONS (not only M6 related but also M rangefinder in general): - Comparing the film roll insertion with my older Canon FTb SLR, it still takes me longer to do this with the M6. I find the tricky part is to get the film straight laid out from left to right after it is inserted. The manual states that the user shouldn't be too picky about this, so I once added the film more quickly without doing those precautions. After I developed the film, the first three frames had a slight diagonally angled bent because the film wasn't winded straight between cassette and roller. Nevertheless, the film was moved correctly, so the rolling mechanics worked reliably as promised. But I still find the film change harder to do with the M6 compared to my film SLR cameras - especially in the field. I might simply need more time to get fully used to this. - I am often rolling my own film from a 100 feet roll which means that I have to precut the corner of the film to make it work with the roller mechanism. Here the M6 is a bit picky I found - if I cut the edge too much or too less, the camera didn't wind the film correctly from the beginning. After some try and error I found now the "best" size for the film cutout, now it works smoothly. - A stupid error, but it still happened to me several times - leaving the lens cap on the lens and not realizing that it was still on. You get the idea if the light meter always shows an underexposure... . As (D)SLR/mirrorless user, I am so used to look through the lens directly. - Using polarizer filter: Tricky but workable. I adjusted to imagine the desired effect with the polarizer filter by turning it into a position where the camera light meter shows a 1 stop underexposure (fully closed polarizer). Then the effect is strongest, by turning the filter a bit out of this position, I got the desired moderate polarizer effect in the photo. - The rangefinder patch blank-out: In another post here I described my homemade solution to overcome this issue. I personally found it quite annoying when the focus rectangle suddenly shifted into a reddish color in the viewfinder and focusing was blanked out. You need to compose into another area and recompose, or roll the camera to make it work again. - Fingerprints: again something simple but worthwhile mentioning. I normally grab the camera on the top when I take it out of my camera bag. On the M6, I often directly touch with my finger(s) the viewfinder window on the upper left camera side. The rangefinder view is very sensitive to smudge on this window. I got used to always carry a clean microfiber cloth with me to clean this window if needed. - Dual/multiple exposure: I got it to work with the M6, but it is a fairly cumbersome procedure, and you will lose about two frames before and after the double exposure to allow for the correct film winding. And even then, it is sort of luck to overlay two frames fairly accurately onto each other. I only tested this once so far and maybe it is getting better by doing it more often. I really enjoy my rangefinder experience so far! Down to the basics and makes me more to focus just on the compositional aspect. Would you agree - what was your experience with the M6 (and maybe other M cameras according to the context above)? Martin
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