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Found 17 results

  1. I wanted to see how well (or poorly) my TL2 could be coaxed into producing infrared or near-infrared photographs. So I started this informational topic to pass along some of what I found out. I used infrared film only very occasionally during my predominantly film days, but there were times when it was just the ticket. One of my favorite B&W films was and still is Ilford's near-infrared SFX-200 processed in PMK Pyro, both for normal and occasionally for near-infrared photos (but that's another story). It turns out that the TL2's sensor collects an impressive amount of infrared light. (Simple test: try viewing the business end of an IR TV remote through the camera. If you can see the IR diode--I assume it's a diode--light up when pressed, then you've got something to work with.) The TL2 shows the diode very well. So did the X2, but the X2 didn't fare nearly so well once I tried using it with IR filters. The exposure times were way too long. Getting the TL2 converted to Infrared is an option, and one that will preserve exposure times we are more used to. Filters, as you all know, slow exposure times down. But if you only use IR occasionally, as I do, IR conversion of the camera isn't a desirable option. So I experimented with filters, and the results are as follows: I used three filters on the TL2 in various types of scenes. The three filters were--in order of ascending visible light filtration--first, the B+W 092 (which Schneider says "...blocks visible light up to 650 nm, and at just below 700 nm it allows 50% to pass through .... From from 730nm to 2,000 nm the transmittance is very high at over 90%"). The second (perhaps the Goldilocks filter) was the HOYA R72 Infrared, which is designed to pass 95% of the light between 760nm and 860nm. The third, and darkest, filter was the B+W 093 which . . . well, I'll let them tell it: "blocks the entire visible light spectrum. It therefore appears black and in contrast to the B+W 092 infrared filter 695, it enables shots in pure infrared without the visible red. The transmittance does not exceed 1% until 800nm, but increases to 88% at 900nm." I'll put results in subsequent posts.
  2. Hello user, by majority request, I open here an infrared photo thread. Who wants to join the "club" finds instructions, hints and examples for infrared-photography between pages 274 and 277 of the "normal "image thread" https://www.l-camera-forum.com/topic/269530-leica-q-the-image-thread/page-274
  3. This is St George Wharf on the Thames river's Albert Embankment shot in infra-red. M8 and 21/2.8 Kobalux with 093 'black' infra-red filter, handheld.
  4. I've started experimenting with Infrared film, unfortunately I am a little confused leading to the first film I developed being overexposed. I am using Rollei infrared 400iso when I looked it up it advised to set the iso at 25. I can't use the light meter due to using a filter on the lens. So did the same with my digital but the lowest iso was 100, so I thought I had to increase the shutter speed but I think I should have decreased it. How do I figure this out? For example if on my digital (again using infrared filter) the iso is 100 and shutter speed is 30secs, then how long would the shutter speed be for the film if set at iso25? I hope this makes sense! Thanks
  5. Hello all, Just want to introduce myself - I am doing photography since 1985. As the headline states, I grew up in Germany but live for professional reasons not related to photography since 2005 permanently in the US. I just recently acquired my first Leica camera - the Leica M6 since I always wanted to have a fully mechanic reliable camera including a light meter. I want to do B&W film photography with this camera since I still develop my own film and use my darkroom to make silver gelatin prints both from digital files (using homemade digital negatives) and from film negatives. My style is predominantly landscape and fine art photography combined with B&W converted infrared photography. This said, I am also using digital cameras in parallel to film cameras. For infrared, I am currently using a converted Canon 5D MkII full frame DSLR with 715 nm cutoff filter, for digital landscape/macro/fine art work I am using a Sony A7R - predominantly with Leica and Voigtlander lenses plus adapter. I am not fixed to just one brand regarding photo gear and simply use what I consider best for my needs. I am looking forward to share photos and experience regarding Leica cameras and M mount lenses. Martin
  6. This sunny and cool october day was dedicated to discover autumnal impression in my city of Bielefeld. We have many parks and one of them belongs to our art museum (architect Philipp Johnson). This park has a pond, old trees and scultptures. Olympues EM 5 with Summilux 15 mm and infrared filter
  7. Hello Everyone I have an M8 and M9. I use the M8 mainly for infrared and as a backup when travelling. I want to buy the M 240 for all sorts of reasons ..... but money is a little tight and I would benefit from trading in either the M8 or M9 ( or both ). I have found the M9 to be very poor as an IR camera, but the M8 is superb. I think I want to end up with the M 240 and the M9 - but I don't want to give up shooting infrared photos. Can anyone please tell me how the M 240 performs as an IR camera. If I could get really good IR from the M 240, I could let the M8 go more easily ...... Many Thanks
  8. My first successful attempt at taking an infra-red shot, inspired by a recent talk on this subject at Croxley Camera Club. The Leica M8 with it's extremely thin IR filter, combined with a Hoya R72 filter on the front of the lens, appears to give great results! I shot the image at ISO160 using the "hidden" RAW mode in the camera and then converted to DNG using Arvid's M8RAW2DNG utility. This gave me a low-noise DNG that I could use to boost the image and counteract the loss of light caused by using the R72 infrared filter. Think I pushed the exposure +3EV in Adobe Camera Raw? Other than that, I just used Silver Efex to give me the mono look that I wanted. I'm just using Photshop Elements 11.
  9. these are my first attempts with infrarerd photography. I bought 2 filters, so that can cover the range of my lenses. For my MKII I discovered that only Novoflex adapter is lightproof, so exercises with this camera will follow later on when we get another series of nice lighting. It seems that subjects can be found anywhere if light is contrasty enough. A different world of light and subject is waiting to be discovered and inviting for light adventures. Have a look. Here Olympus OMD EM5 with Summilux 15 mm
  10. Hi there, new to the forums here, please forgive me if this is posted in the wrong section. I have been looking for a good 28mm (near 35mm equiv.) lens for both IR photography and B&W once I sell my full spectrum modified Olympus. After researching a while I have come down to these three options; Ultron 28/1.9 = Good low contrast B&W, IR?? Biogon 28/2.8 = Not so good B&W (higher contrast) but good IR Summaron 35/3.5 (Not 28mm I know) = Good B&W and apparently good for IR (due to coatings) The Ultron seems ideal for my needs except there is very little information on its use for IR. Can anyone confirm whether it is sharp in the spectrum or suffers from hotspots at certain apertures? Samples would be great to. The Biogon has IR focus marking which would probably make my life alot easier except I've heard its not the best for B&W, unless some samples convince me otherwise. For IR it doesn't suffer any hotspots according to the guys @ getdpi. If I can see more IR action (samples ofc) from the Summaron I might be sold. Although a filtering solution for this lens seems like a pain, if anyone is using this for IR how have you gone about with it? Just using the SOOGZ adapter? Any samples of the three in b&w and IR are greatly appreciated! If there are any other possible lens options apart from those 3 that I should consider, please let me know also. Thanks for the help
  11. Hallo zusammen, nachdem ich nun schon einige Zeit damit verbracht habe, überall im Netz zu suchen und nicht fündig geworden bin, wende ich mich nun an euch: Ich besitze eine M240 und würde gerne mit Infrarotfotografie experimentieren. Es gibt aber allerhand Infos dazu im Netz und eben auch gegenteilige Meinungen. Daher meine Frage an die Fachleute: gibt es hier jemanden, der Erfahrung mit der M8 (natürlich noch interessanter für mich der M240) hat und berichten könnte ? Belichtungszeiten etc? Die Frage wäre nämlich dann, wenn die M8 so exorbitant besser sein sollte als die M240 mir einen gebrauchten Body der M8 dafür zuzulegen. Denn ich habe eher weniger Lust einen Fremdhersteller zu bemühen und diesen Body dann erst einmal umbauen zu lassen. Also lange Rede kurzer Sinn oder so ähnlich - ich würde mich über eure Hilfe sehr freuen, vielen Dank, Grüße Nick
  12. Hey there, after searching for quite some time now, I decided to write this post. I own a M 240 and would like to experiment with infrared. But there are so many and opposite informations in the web and Leica is not helpful at all about this topic. So: does anybody has experiences with the M8 (M8 should have a less strong IR filter that the M240-also interested in experiences of M240) and infrared photography ? Can anybody explain his/her experiences in exposure time etc? It would really be a good help for me. Thanks in advance, Nick
  13. Dear Forum, just new – since some months - in this circle, I feel like at home, because there are so many experienced and friendly people in this forum. Therefore, I hope, anyone can perhaps help me to find a suitable actual Leica M lens for infrared imaging with a Leica M8 ! Principally, IR with the M8 works well with some restriction, perhaps mostly coming from the lenses. I see only few problems with the Leica Apo 2/75, which I bought a short time ago. IR-imaging was quite good with very old screwlenses Elmar 3,5/35 and 3,5/50. I tested a Voigtländer Nokton 1,2/35 mm asph. , which had such a big focus shift in Infrared, that I could not do good IR-work at all. With Zeiss-Lenses 4/18 and 2,8/25, IR-imaging works, because they have an IR-marker on the distance ring, but they are not my overall favorites. Therefore: which actual Leica lens between 18 and 50 mm focal length may be suitable for IR-imaging with the M8 ? The lenses are too expensive or it would take too much time to test them all, therefore I hope for helpful ideas. Thanks in advance, Joerg
  14. Anyone tried infrared photography using D-lux 4? I just got myself a Lensmate adaptor and a 46mm Hoya IR filter R72, but for some unfathomable reason, the photos turn out all pink, like this: They look nothing like what the infrared pictures I've seen on say, Flickr: Infrared Help! Anyone know what I'm doing wrong? Might it be the camera settings or...?
  15. I experimented with IR photography using my Elmarit 28/2.8 on the M8. I realized that this lens appears to cause a significant hot spot under IR conditions, especially with apertures 8 and up. Can you please share your experience with other lenses on the M8 when using for IR photography? Thanks! Ralph
  16. I know the FAQ recommends taking off the IR filter when using a 35mm or wider lens, but does anyone have any real world experience yet with this? I would find it annoying to have to remove the filters as I switch from M8 to M9 during the day. How much of an issue is this? Thanks.
  17. OK, so I was shipped a 39mm Leitz IR filter (deep red, almost black) by mistake for a Leica UV/IR filter - and decided to keep it. Playing around, the first thing I noticed is that while the M8 replicates B&W infrared film quite nicely, color IR shots are nothing like color Ektachrome Infrared. They are either red all over, or, with a strong bias of the white balance towards the left (yellow, + green tint), a weak approximation of EIR shot without a filter - pastel purples, magentas and reds. Where were all the rich greens and cyans and flaming red foliage I remembered from shooting film EIR? You know, the colors the CIA would analyse to figure out the Soviet crop forecast, and so on. I've now figured out how to get those colors back - and it basically involves replicating how Kodak sensitized the three layers of EIR. What Kodak did was to mismatch the wavelength sensitivities of the layers to their color dyes, so that infrared light created a red image (cyan dye layer), red light created a green image (magenta dye layer), and green light created a blue image (yellow dye layer). Blue light affected all the layers, and created that purple look if no filter was used, so the normal way to shoot EIR was with either a yellow or a normal red filter (not IR-only) to block all blue light. So - what I've done is to shoot TWO exposures of these scenes - one with the Leitz IR-only filter, and one in "normal" RGB. I open the normal color shot in photoshop, and swap some color channels. Green channel gets copy/pasted into the blue channel, red channel gets copy/pasted into the green channel. Then I open the IR exposure, and copy THAT red channel and paste it to the red channel of the "normal" color image. So I've now got Infrared>red, red>green, green>blue. This replicates the look of EIR shot with a yellow filter - firey red grass and trees, cyan skies, and some neutral tones that look almost color-correct. For the look of EIR shot with a red filter (which produced IR and red images but no green exposure) I just take the additional step of filling the blue channel with black (no exposure). This gives the same intense red/yellow/green pallette. It takes a bit of further processing with "selective color" and "HSB" to get the colors precise, but that is pretty easy once the basic palette is in place. I figured this was M8-specific, even if it is a post-processing technique. Unless you do surgery on a DMR or D-Lux 4 to take out the IR filters, it doesn't apply to them. ------ P.S. You'll notice the clouds moved between the IR and normal color exposures, thus the cyan/red/white effect. I also shot this first set of pix hand-held, but it really requires a tripod for the two exposures to match - amazing how a fraction of an inche can change how things align even at 50-60 feet away!
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