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Everything posted by isleofgough

  1. I don't doubt your experience with the two cameras, Agencal, but I would think that the missing 3D effect with the SL2 should be fixable. I don't have the SL to compare with the SL2, but I have pictures that show (and don't show) 3D effect from prior cameras (Nikon 800e, Nikon D1x) with the same lenses (mostly Zeiss but occasionally other brands). In my experience, the lens itself has the greatest importance in this effect. But the lighting, color, processing, exposure, and certainly f stop are also important. The number of megapixels is of minimal importance. I do a lot of work in various 3D programs and there is discussion of what creates a 3D effect to a 2D render and obviously there is no real lens involved. Lighting, materials, depth of field, focus point, etc. are all considerations. The photo I used above was shot at f8, by the way. Looking at the picture of the boy from a few posts above that shows excellent 3D effect, the focus on the iris of the eyes and eyelashes is razor sharp, but the ears and back of the hair and neck are pleasantly out of focus. The lighting is not harsh and the color itself contributes to the effect. The lens provides great micro contrast. A shallow depth of field is helpful in this picture, as it separates the sections of the photo. If the parts of the photo were more physically separated, one could use a smaller f stop and still get a good 3D effect. So my guesses on what might be going on for you with the SL2, when you are using the same lenses you use on the SL: Focus can shift slightly on the SL2. Diglloyd has several images where he criticizes the focus shift on Leica cameras. Even a subtle shift in the focus point can ruin the 3D effect. The SL2 also tends to significantly overexpose in high contrast situations (but is pretty good in low contrast settings), and this can blow out the highlights. I find the sensor itself tends to stretch out the luminosity curve somewhat. In Capture one pro, I generally have to increase the black slider (which is not a black point but separation of the darkest parts of the image) and the shadow slider much less so. Sometimes both the white and highlight sliders have to be reduced and then a slight s curve applied.With these tweaks, one can get a much better transition from razor sharp focus to pleasing out of focus areas. If your issue is focus shift, you could try setting your camera up on a tripod and using highly magnified focus (with the new firmware update for the lenses) and photographing some stationary scene with the SL1 and SL2 to compare. I would guess they would be equivalent.
  2. I would think the 3D effect of any lens really depends on the lens itself and the processing of the image, rather than the particular sensor. I don't have the 35mm APO SL but have the 50mm APO SL and it has good 3D effect with the SL2.
  3. It is hard to imagine that 3D effect would be different with the SL2, assuming you have nailed the exposure and focus and chosen the same f stop.
  4. Incurable disease but you can limit it with therapy
  5. Manual focusing on the 50mm Summicron SL on the Leica SL2 is much improved. It no longer stutters and the precision is much better.
  6. Eye autofocus improvement and less twitchy manual focusing of SL primes.
  7. If you reset your camera, it will ask you to connect with Leica Fotos. If you have that app on your phone, that will set the time and date in the camera.
  8. To me, the Leica SL2 offers a lot for people who have manual focus lenses. I would love to have all the Leica SL primes, but I only have the 50 mm APO SL Summicron. That is a beautiful lens, and the major reason I purchased the SL2. When there is any motion, I am much more likely to get great or at least decent focus with the AF Summicron than any manual focus lens, and the sharpness and transitions to out of focus areas are exceptional with the Summicron. However for very precise focusing or video work, there is nothing like the long throw of a manual focus lens. Since I learned I could use the wheel on the SL2 to zoom in or out on the magnified EVF, I now get much better focus, and the focus assist works differently at different magnifications as well. Many decades ago, SLR cameras had pentaprisms or split focus circles for precise focusing of manual focus lenses, but those are long gone. The SL2's EVF brings back precise focusing. In addition, the quality and color of the pixels from the SL2 are excellent, not to mention the great ergonomics of the camera. Here is another Zeiss Otus 55mm for Nikon with adapter shot yesterday with the SL2 (shot at f1.4).
  9. I played with the SL2 more and see that the wheel can adjust magnification settings after you push the magnification button. Somehow I missed that.
  10. I haven't had the same issues with autoWB, but I always adjust the white balance in Capture one to match what I saw. No auto white balance in any camera I've used is totally accurate. There are some issues I wish were better on the SL2: depth of preview for Leica L mount lenses, an ability to adjust zoom settings (the built in settings are not magnified enough for precise focusing of f1.4 lenses), less noise in ASA 800 and above, better eye detection in AF - particularly for animals, fixing the default overexposure (and blowing out of highlights: I have to shoot a full stop underexposure to prevent this), and something between low and high for focus assist (with manual lenses). I also would like better autofocus stability in video shooting. The SL2 is a great camera, but not without its faults.
  11. Those who have not tried C1P, I would recommend downloading a trial. At least on a Mac, C1P has much better color profiles than Adobe Lightroom (tested on a GretagMacBeth color checker card) and adjustment layers/masks are much more stable in C1P than in Lightroom (where those little dots sometimes disappear and one cannot edit or change parameters in a mask, despite "always show" enabled). Version 21 has a pro profile added for the SL2 and tethering as well as some other features (keystroke commands, etc.). There are some "features" in V21 which may not be in the final version as a few were removed in the most recent trial.
  12. I use a zeiss 100mm macro for Nikon with an adapter and focus peaking works great, so I assume it will on the lenses you mention. Manual focus lenses are an asset as they make for precise focusing to use with focus stacking in photoshop.
  13. Stitching them together in a post processing program will work well. This is easily done in Photoshop.
  14. The novoflex adapter is purely mechanical (a tube), so it sounds like Leica m lenses perform the same way as the zeiss. I have a Leica 50mm summicron sl, and it sounds like it will not generate an accurate dof preview.
  15. Perhaps you are speaking of something you read rather than actual lenses you own. The aperture does not "stay open until you press the shutter" with Zeiss 100mm Distagon macro, 21mm or 55mm Otus for Nikon with a novoflex adapter. Rather than setting each lens at the smallest aperture, you can set it to the aperture you want on the lens itself and then turn the dial on the adapter to get an exact f stop. I'm not guessing about whether it shows a true depth of field preview; I have tried it with all three lenses and it works. It could be different with the Canon or Sony versions of the Zeiss lenses. I don't have those to test.
  16. Maybe it only works on manual focus lenses. It definitely works for me with three Zeiss lenses.
  17. The SL2 sensor does tend to blow out highlights. I find I get best results by setting one full stop under exposure.
  18. BTW, I was not aware that fast glass has a different depth of field compared with slower lenses if one uses the same f stop. I did know that the quality of the out of focus areas can be different. I don't know about the 50mm SL Summilux (I didn't want to carry the weight) but the very narrow depth of field of the Otus at f1.4 meant that I threw out the majority of my photos at that aperture. Realistically, at f1.4, not only was one eye in focus but the other not - but sometimes the iris was in focus but the eyelashes were not. Even with EVF or live view on a SLR with high magnification, it was really hard to nail the focus. Since the human eye has the equivalent of f2-f8 range (depending on ambient light), images at f1.4 can look a little fake to me.
  19. In the dog pictures, you can see even better the narrower depth of field with the Otus. This photo, like the dog photos above, was shot at f2 using the Otus.
  20. The f1.4 was at 1/40 sec and the f2 at 1/20 sec. one of the differences is 50 vs 55 mm lens.
  21. Both at f2. I was surprised too when I saw the difference in out of focus areas. I shot images at f1.4 and f2 and the image above is from f2 to give a more fair comparison. Here is with f1.4 and added dog. All images were focused on one of the bolts on the chair closest to the camera.
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