Borda

Nikon DF-CP1 - Best brightline finder ever. Definitively better, then Leica. Originaly for coolpix A camera. You have only to put some tape over Nikon branding on it

I don't know your eyesight, but correction lenses are working great for me.

Leica MP/Summarit 50/2.5 Expired cine Orwo NP55@50 Ilfotec DD-x 11min+80%=20min

Leica M7/collapsible summicron 50 Kodak t-max 100 expired Ilfotec DD-X 1:4 6 min. 22°C

Leica IIIG Hektor 135 Fmapan 400@320 HC110 (B) 7 min

You are not to be confused, your understanding is definitively right. 1. Refer to sf24d manual. It"s mutch better written. 2. Set the Flash to TTL mode. Set ANY value of apperture on the Flash body. Then trigger the Flash with lowest and highest apperture set on the lens, without any changes of value, which is set on Flash body. You will clearly see the diference The Flash is in TTL mode driven by camera sensor, the Flash itself has nothing to do with it. Which such a logic of TTL Flash settings (described above) - how can I use the for example Sf40 in on film camera? There are NO settings for apperture on Flash body. It Must be unusable then... But, of course, it works in TTL with any TTL M camera...

Leica MP Fomapan 200 expired 2004 Xtol stock 7 min.

The same problem I had with 7artisan 50/1.1. It's a quality issue of these cheap lenses.

Aaa... Sorry. 1.Set the time to 1/50 (or lower).

You are definitively right. There is no need to set apperture on Flash body in TTL mode. It only shows the (usable) distance. The Flash itself is driven by camera. It is not depending on given value in Flash body.

And 20 years old M7 upgraded finder. The corners are squared. Interesting.

Very late 2022/very early 2023 MP. They are rounded.

I'm still awaiting yor response, Leica. to

Hello. Do you resolved the issue? My friend has simmilar problem with 1/125 on m6 (non TTL). Thank you!