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  1. Please go to the A1 Facebook group https://www.facebook.com/groups/sonyalpha1/?ref=share and ask there. You seem to think you are right and the rest are wrong. There are 6.6k users that will help you.
  2. We timed it with two people. One using the camera one with a timer. I don’t have the images anymore as my test was done when before official launch. I don’t own the camera, but had access to it early. Clearly you don’t believe mid 20s can be achieved but there are numerous photographers and reviewers that have gotten speeds that replicate my findings. Perhaps try going to the A1 Facebook group and ask others who can share more info with you. All the best!
  3. Stop watch on phone and internal. As mentioned before check out Mark Galer’s video on the A1. He explains how to achieve these numbers. I used his recommendations and had similar findings. He goes deeper into AF settings etc. Due to the card speeds on the CF Express type A cards you have a five to 6 sec window before buffering kicks in. It’s not bad like the SL2 but your fps will slow a bit. From my usage I only use H+ for the must have action shots. Otherwise I set H to 20fps and stay there as that’s more than enough for most things.
  4. Honestly I have no skin in the game on this but if you set up the camera properly with the CF Express A cards you can get mid 20’s relatively easily. Set AFC to Release instead of focus, don’t shoot with jpeg and Raw but one or the other, use a GM lens vs third party lenses and you can achieve mid 20s. I have shot birds, wildlife sports and for the five to 6 seconds without buffering kicking in you can get that boost you need.
  5. I have yet to achieve the 30fps but have achieved mid 20s. A good reference for settings is to watch tutorials by Mark Galer on YouTube. While he is a Sony ambassador he does break down the settings to achieve higher hit rates with fast FPS. additionally you need to use CF Express type A cards to get these speeds
  6. A1 is designed mainly for sports and wildlife hence the performance. Yes one can capture most things with any camera, however the enhanced AF, tracking and speed of cameras like the A1, help photographers that live in a high speed get the picture out ASAP world, better opportunities and abilities to capture the image that keeps them employed.
  7. Agree. Right now it’s the best work camera for everything. Leica is for the enjoyment of photography, Sony is to capture anything you want to or need to for work etc.
  8. You should be hitting 25-26FPS with GM lenses. Need to set AFC to release instead of focus. This helps a lot in terms of speed. Also set burst mode to H+
  9. Yes you can. No issues, but why not use AF lenses?
  10. EVF on SL2 is better. Yes you can magnify and control how much you want to magnify in. EVF is usable for manual focusing but if you shoot at 1.7 or with faster lenses always best to magnify to make sure you nail focus. This goes with all cameras.
  11. It’s not so much about the end result as it is working with the files. For example If you use files from a phase one you will see the difference. End results from most cameras are hard to decipher as we are in an era most cameras are really good, but it’s working with the files that you see the differences. One of the reasons photographers buy into MF is not just detail but working with the files.
  12. Talking to Phase One users and seeing the files it does open up a conversation is the 100 and 100s true 16bit. I agree the 50MP sensor at 14bit does compete still after this many years.
  13. In this prosumer medium format market I do agree it’s the best IQ. Phase One does top it when it comes to dynamic range and true 16bit files. There is debate if the GFX system is true 16 bit, but in terms of Hasselblad H series it’s a really close call. No disrespect to the S series, but it’s not there with the 100 or 100s. Lenses are older and haven’t been updated, sensor doesn’t have the bit rate of the newer sensors. From my experience it produces beautiful colors and great IQ, but a bit behind the 100. I would compare it more to the 50R and 50S. Reality is this group of cameras IQ wise is really good, and if you aren’t printing you will only notice the difference in the way you can work with the files in post
  14. I shoot fashion, some sports and street. I like movement in shots so faster, accurate AF is always welcome. Sure if the model is still it doesn’t make much difference, but when your on set with clients and the camera is very slow or missing shots due to AF, you can only make so many excuses. The SL2 is fantastic for still subjects but when it comes anything faster you have to deal with inconsistent AFC and terrible buffering issues. the GFX100S isn’t perfect but overall it’s a faster system. Setting up AF is a bit cumbersome compared to other systems but in MF it’s the fastest out there. The X1D has to constantly reacquire focus even if the subject is in the same position and depending on the lens it can be very slow. The 007 I found to be slow but prob due to the lenses more than anything. I had a number of missed shots with it which was frustrating.
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