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Everything posted by romualdo

  1. I'm amazed at the recent price jump in M6 Classics - I paid $1100 (Australian) for a good condition M6 round 2015 then sold it approximately a year later for $1200 (Aus) to fund a black paint MP that had turned up here locally - that was the princely sum of $2800 (Aus) - those were the days!!. Non TTL M6s are currently selling (or being offered for sale) in the range $2000 - $4000 here in Australia - nearing MP prices? One of the reasons I eventually parted with the M6 (apart from to temptation of the MP) was the significant flare in the viewfinder - my M3 & MP were far superior IMHO.
  2. Thank you for that Pyrogallol, but I had seen that - it's a bit too expensive for me (especially since the Australian $ has hit a low at present)
  3. Matteo, I had the same dilemma not that long ago regarding my Telyt 200 f4.5 lens head & how to effectively attach it to a bellows but eventually worked out that the Focorapid ring 14113 (made specifically for the 200 f4.5) was the only appropriate attachment . By the way, the lens we are discussing (1935-1960) is not that far temporally from the Focorapid (1963-68). I'm still looking for a 14113 (at a decent price - the Australian $ is abysmal at present) - they are usually sold as a set with the Focorapid unit which I'm not interested in.
  4. I scored this lot of extension tubes (ranging from 7 to 90mm) in a box of Leica goodies a couple of years ago (wasn't sure what to do with them & didn't know if they could be used with the Leica system - were all screwed together as one single piece & initially difficult to separate - probably been together for years) - there are no Leica markings (as described by Rionda in the initial post - my rings look like those shown there), only the size stamped in mm on the outside (cept for the 7mm one) - these are generic (non Leica branded) tubes IMHO but now I realise I have BOOXZ, MOOSP/F
  5. I have used a Fuji X10 copy (LH-JX10) hood - has a 40mm thread then internally (hood screws apart) has a 52mm thread for filters - very neat IMHO
  6. Just looked at my all chrome ZOOAN again - have previously been unsuccessful in attempting to screw in my Elmar 135 f4 lens head but once the baffles/rings (x3) were removed (easily), the head now fits & could be set up & function effectively with my Visoflex II - basically the same effect as the Elmar with its standard barrell & M mount, so no real advantage in setting it up this way (Elmar Head/ZOOAN/Visoflex). On the other hand when the lens head (Elmar) is set up with my OTZFO (16464) & OTSRO (16472) we have significantly improved macro capabilities. One of the rings h
  7. I'm wondering if loaded leica film cartridges (IXMOO &/or FILCA) can be stored in a refrigerator (not freezer) when not in use. Any issues with condensation etc once removed from this storage
  8. Last week I purchased a +2 modified Nikon Diopter from DAG - in transit as we speak - we'll see how it goes - I've used +1 & +2 genuine Leica diopters (on my M3, MP & M240) - always found them second hand & in excellent condition - refuse to pay the full (IMHO extortionate) price for these - one of the big Leica rip-offs
  9. Arnaud, that makes sense - looks like mine has been cut many thanks Stephen (Romualdo)
  10. While we're on the topic of cron 50 "goggles", I've just noticed that the black plastic stopper that rests up against the camera when they are attached is missing (possibly broken off?? - see attached pic) It's been like this since I've owned the unit (lens & matching goggles) - never really noticed the defect till I saw the pics on this thread. The fact that's it's missing/broken, does it affect performance (i can't see that it would) ie does it really need to be replaced Wondering if you can get this as a spare part (it does screw into the unit & is probably removable
  11. no I didn't - I thought it was a bit peculiar the direction this thread was heading in
  12. what's so special about the 9th edition (it was the last) - I bought them all (Vols 1 - 9) when they were originally published, starting round 1994 There are some added newer CD entries/reviews & some older ones have been removed but basically it is not that different from the previous edition truly bizzare!!
  13. Go for it RobM!!! monochrome developing is a buzz - did it in the late 70s & early 80s - had a big break then recommenced in 2015 (my sons are now film photographers - past 10 years) no real change in technique over the past 35years or so
  14. all good - sorted it out & now the FILCA is working fine in my IIIg - false alarm many thanks for your input/advice
  15. No Reini, as Tom reiterates, you need an IXMOO (type N) for the M's
  16. Reini, based on the info from the link you've given me, my FILCA appears to be a Type B (52mm height, black spring)
  17. Is the FILCA compatible with the IIIg - most of the reference material I've sourced (texts & online) state that they are Today I received a FILCA - it fits into my IIIg & I can close the base plate without issue BUT the film just won't line up with the take up spool sprocket & wind on - tried multiple times - the film holes just don't engage with the sprocket - the film appears misaligned I have been using an IXMOO on the IIIg without issue - the film lines up nicely with the take up spool sprocket (I use a light & observe the film eventually being caught by the sproc
  18. I was shocked to see the second edition Of The "Leica Collector's Guide" selling for over US $450 & up, second hand - I presume it's OOP https://www.amazon.com/Leica-Collectors-Guide-Hove-Books/dp/1874707383/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=leica+collector's+guide&qid=1580192480&s=books&sr=1-2 https://www.ebay.com/itm/Dennis-Laney-LEICA-COLLECTORS-GUIDE-hardback-2nd-ed-Hove-Collectors-2004-VG/303079239805?epid=90106449&hash=item4690ee307d:g:PisAAOSwg~9ceAv8 I bought my copy new in September 2015 so it must have gone OOP only recently?? Who would pay that sort of mone
  19. another option is Leica Classifieds on facebook https://www.facebook.com/groups/leicaclassifieds/
  20. I have used the technique shown in this youTube video - worked every time for me
  21. As with my IIIg & Tri-X (modern cassette) - only 2 frames out of 36 affected & both were at high speed ie 1000th sec - see my earlier post
  22. But I have been having the same problem, horizontal lines only at high speeds (on only two frames from 36 in my last roll) on a IIIg with a normal film cassette
  23. check these links - we are possibly dealing with "Ragged Edges on Shutter Curtains" scenario
  24. Many thanks again John - I get the gist of your attachment/soldering recommendations. What unpleasant material may emerge from the capacitor when I attempt to saw the top part off? Also I'm wondering if the old capacitor still has function - I tested it today with a multimeter (resistance only & not capacitance - my meter cannot perform the second function). I set my analog multimeter at the x1K ohm 1. old capacitor - connected leads to terminals (Red +ve & black -ve) -> needle went right across to right (0 ohm) then gradually moved to the left until reaching approx
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