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Everything posted by romualdo

  1. One question - not sure if this has been asked before - If your MP has the "old" style (M6) ASA dial, will that always be associated with an M6 door or can that dial be found on the later MP doors?
  2. pretty close (18 apart) from the previous post (Sunyforreal)
  3. My MP serial # 2891091 (Batch 5 according to the chart above) has an M6 ISO dial
  4. I have both - the "cameraquest" one for my M3 & the "Popflash" one for my MP - both are sturdy & ergonomic - have never loosened or come off There is generally plenty of space/tolerance between the bottom of the winder & the top plate of the camera when fully extended - you just have to be aware when rewinding that the lever can on occasions move slowly downwards & has the potential to scratch the camera top plate surface while you are still winding - this hasn;t happened to me
  5. I can do the same with my MP & 50mm cron - the bottom line blanks out (mainly lower right) when I hold the camera markedly downwards (to the floor) & basically aim at my feet You only have to move your eye slightly & you will see the lower line (completely) again This doesn't happen when the camera is facing forward, upwards or downwards
  6. another reason I sold the M6 was the frequent "viewfinder flare", especially indoors - that completely resolved with the MP. How much more does it cost to upgrade an M6 viewfinder to to MP/M-A type - that's an added cost unless you want to adapt to keeping your eye in the most correct spot to minimise this flare.
  7. Things have also escalated here in Australia. I bought a black chrome M6 (classic) in 2015 for $1000 (Aus) then resold it a year later for $1100 Aus (money was used to fund a black paint MP costing $2800 Aus). People are currently asking up to $4000 Aus for an M6 (ie Gumtree) - whether they are actually selling for that price is another question
  8. Wow!!! didn't know it sold for that much IIRC I bought mine (new) for 120 euros - that included shipping of 20 euros, so it actually cost me 100 euros ie round $110 US$ (a bit cheaper than $449) if you contact Tomasz Witczak (tomasz.witczak@gmail.com) or search him on Messenger, he may still have more left for sale (he was selling on the facebook "Leica Classifieds" site)https://www.facebook.com/groups/leicaclassifieds
  9. Recently picked up this contemporary 28mm Nikon viewfinder (DF-CP1) made specifically for the Nikon Coolpix A - all metal & bright line one of the nicest viewfinders on the recent market (they may be out of production now) - actually for my Nikon LTM 28mm lens I purchased it from Leica Classifieds - the person selling it (as new) had a few of them (shop stock) - he may still have some left https://www.facebook.com/groups/leicaclassifieds
  10. Luigi, the flanges on my '33 Elmar are most likely just a bit too thin & no matter what position I insert the collapsed lens, it just rotates freely & doesn't tighten up/lock thus making it unstable to use with the NOOKY (the lens could easily fall out)
  11. reviving this thread I've just sourced a NOOKY & tried two Elmar 3.5's one a 1947 coated version & a the second a nickle 1933 uncoated The 1947 lens (in collapsed form) locks properly into the NOOKY but unfortunately the earlier (1933) version won't lock in - it just spins I've examined both lenses flanges (that should lock into the NOOKY) and they look identical ? there may be a marginal difference in their thickness (33 vers is possibly thinner) Has anyone else experienced this? Am I doing something wrong during installation?
  12. this is what I recently got from Leica (Feb 2, 2022) regarding my newly acquired III Dear Mr. Platt, many thanks for your request. According to our old delivery books the serial 110658 was delivered on 24.06.1933 And the serial 139761 was delivered on 11.03.1933. The place of delivery and recipient is not noted, only serial and date. Ther is no entry in the old maintenance/ repair books for both serials. Do not hesitate to contact us agsain if you have further questions.
  13. David, that glow is not intentional but a negative (if you'd call it that) side effect from the casing (Lifeproof) over my iPhone 12 Pro - the covering over the lenses is plastic (not glass) & is marked/stained etc (only after a few months) causing this slight blurring (soft focus effect) ie like vaseline on a lens - I actually split the case today & removed the clear plastic covering ie akin to removing a dirty/scratched UV/neutral lens filter. Yes, I agree it has a pleasing effect but I don't want all of my pics turning out like this.
  14. and here it is on the M240
  15. best of both worlds with this Nikkor 28mm f3.5 (usable with LTM & M, including digital) plus two extra stops on the Summaron 28 (original LTM & newer M versions)
  16. By The way, does anyone here collect Ducati cameras (no, not the motorbikes but the same company)
  17. just looked at my 1960 2.8 LTM Summaron (1808066) & it has the coarse thread
  18. any chance of taking a pic & posting the page on the 28mm LTM W-Nikkor?
  19. why the variation in serial #s? Actual serial # is 387147 whilst top plate engraving # is 380852 (very different style/font). "First short series of IIIc with bearings was 387101-387160" - it fits nicely into this first series sequence
  20. The Canon 35mm f2 LTM is a wonderful lens - would also work well on the X-Pro1 very reasonable pricing - lots of these lenses available on Ebay (mainly from Japan & in great condition)
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