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Everything posted by JonVdG

  1. Many thanks. I had 14031 in my notes, which seems identical to the 14321 you mentioned but lined with real felt. It has a slightly different design on the front than the original A42, which makes me think it's an updated version. See an example here: https://www.keh.com/shop/leica-m-leica-39mm-chrome-14031-front-lens-cap-chrome-plated-brass-229854.html
  2. I'm wondering if anyone knows which front and rear caps the 90mm Elmar Triplet ("lightweight") M mount lens originally shipped with. I purchased mine used from a Leica dealer and it only came with a rear Leitz branded cap, so I'm especially interested to know if the front cap is a push-on Leica branded 39mm cap, or if it's a different Leitz design. The few copies currently on the market seem to be sold with the Leica 39mm push on. Unfortunately, Leica Wiki didn't have any information. For reference, my lens is the ELANG-M 11 830 model.
  3. Thanks for testing it, and the photo - much appreciated. Looks like you have a nice copy of the Triplet there. Mine impresses me every time, so I want to give it a good lens hood.
  4. Thanks for your reply. I have the 39mm version, manufactured in 1964 and referred to as the third version in Leica Wiki. This lens tends not to flare, and I rarely use it in instances where flare would be an issue, so I’m seriously considering the 12549. The ITOOY is interesting though, looks like it has more depth. Do you know that this hood will clip on to this lens?
  5. I'm the happy owner of a 90mm Elmar f/4 and I'd love to hear what folks are using for a hood with this lens. The IUFOO (#12575) is the hood deployed with the lens in the early 1960's, but I'm open to other suggestions. Screw-in (39mm) or clip-on are both fine with me, I'd just like to hear if there's anything in particular that works well for you. Thanks.
  6. Cheers to that. Art should be about exploration. Thanks.
  7. Thanks, that's actually quite insightful. I've heard several folks suggest the Elmarit ASPH has too much contrast compared to Version 4, at least according to their tastes. I even talked to a gentleman selling the ASPH on Craigslist who said he had decided to keep the Version 4 for this reason. That got me thinking that the increased contrast must be quite substantial. However, I rarely shoot in bright sunlight and much prefer overcast conditions so perhaps the ASPH would be fine even if that contrast is present. For its size, weight, and slight corner IQ improvement, I would certainly prefer the ASPH.
  8. Thank you all - I really appreciate hearing your experiences. I suspected the Version 3 or 4 of the 28mm Elmarit would be the closest to this 50mm Summicron, based on dates. Version 3 was developed at the same time as my Summicron (beginning 1979), but my particular version was made in Germany, which supposedly gives it a later manufacture date of the early 1990's. I'm not sure how much Leica adjusted coatings or other optical characteristics during a version's lifetime, if at all, but I suspect there was little or no sample variation in terms of rendering. As such, I'm tempted to try the Version 3, but I'm drawn to the smaller size and slight optical improvements of Version 4. The Summicron remains tempting as well, but the additional weight, size, and cost, even though not tremendously more, are pushing me toward the Elmarit. The ASPH Elmarit remains tempting as well for its small size, but I am concerned about its increased contrast relative to my 50mm Summicron.
  9. I've been shooting a lot on the M8 and M9 with a 50mm Summicron Version IV. I have the need for some consistency across my images, so I'm searching for a 28mm lens that renders a black and white image most similar to this 50mm. Most of my work is landscape. I'm considering all versions of the Elmarit, but I'm open to trying the Zeiss Biogon as well. I've done a lot of research and I have good awareness of most of the other characteristics (size, weight, cost, etc.), so I'm most interested in hearing insights specifically into black and white rendering.
  10. Thanks for your reply. I apologize for not being more specific in my original post. I've been a freelance photojournalist and part-time photography instructor for about 15 years, so I'm comfortable with my shooting position. For me, it's about carrying the camera in a ready position, not inside a bag or attached to a strap. My particular type of work (and shooting style) benefits from being able to handhold the camera as much as possible. With my M8, I've found the Thumbs Up grip to be invaluable. Supposedly the Match Technical grip for the X2 might fit the XV so maybe I'll give that a try. Still wondering if anyone has tried any other third party thumb grips that work for this camera - thanks.
  11. Does anyone have any Thumbs Up type of solutions that work well on the X Vario? That beautiful, heavy lens out front is leaving me with the desire for a bit more grip for my thumb. I already own the hand grip and I have a finger loop on the way, but nothing beats a thumbs up, at least in my experience. Open to any and all suggestions though - thanks.
  12. A helpful member in another forum posted the following: ‘"Basically" imaging sensors are analog devices that apply thresholds to the signal: in the case of the Leica T, 4096 thresholds, in the case of my M8, M9, M Monochrom- 16384 thresholds. Cameras and memory cards are analog devices, computers are analog devices- the difference being that they threshold to 2 levels. The latter creates electrical noise that creeps into the analog to digital convertor of the sensor. Two ways of "creep"- direct digital noise and instantaneous load on the power supply and DC-DC convertors. A fast memory card will drain the buffer faster than it is filled, stop, start again as the buffer fills- "not a steady state". This puts more of an instantaneous load on the camera. A slower memory card will drain the buffer more slowly, no "start/Stop"- less of an instantaneous load.” I haven’t had a chance to test their hypothesis yet, but it makes some sense. You seem to think this isn’t the case? I’m curious to hear your thoughts about it - thanks.
  13. Thanks, that’s good to know. It’s a little disappointing that even the CL has the issue, but I suppose that’s the price to be paid for these large file sizes. I’ve heard that faster cards can contribute to image quality issues (increased noise in shadows, etc.), but I mostly shoot at base ISO so I might just give one a try.
  14. Thanks, I was thinking about trying one of those. Any particular brand / model you recommend? Yes, it has version 1.61 installed.
  15. I have a couple questions for those who have owned or had experience with the T and TL bodies. I realize this has been discussed in other threads, but I’m hoping for a little more insight. Even when auto review is turned off on my T body, the captured image lingers on the screen for a second (the equivalent of "blackout" on other cameras), prohibiting me from immediately composing my next shot. I admit that's not a lot of time, but it can have an impact on my shooting workflow. So my questions are 1) do the TL and TL2 also have this issue, and 2) does using a faster memory card decrease the time it takes for the monitor to become live again? For reference, I'm using a Panasonic SDHC Class 10 UHS-3 card with a 45 MB/s write time, and I'm shooting RAW (DNG) with 1.8 MB jpeg files. The T has no option for shooting DNG only, unfortunately.
  16. I can't be of much help for the specific issue that you're having, but I will say that every inexpensive adapter that I've used (including Fotodiox) has left me with one problem or another. I am only willing to use brands like Novoflex and Voigtlander and I pay the price (100 - 300 USD) because they just work. That being said, I don't need 6-bit coding so I'm less familiar with how well this works across the different brands of adapters. Good luck, I hope you find something that works.
  17. Oh man, my autofocus has been giving me trouble since Day 1 - only a few of my shots have been sharp. Worse, I sometimes get a completely black image, even though the viewfinder is working just fine. Can't imagine what's causing that. I knew these cameras were overrated ;-) Happy New Year.
  18. I have to agree, seems like a 90mm would work well, or the 135mm Tele Elmar. However, if the SL system is otherwise treating you well, this is an issue that needs to be resolved. I've shot extensively with nearly every autofocus system made, often in demanding conditions, and each one has its issues. Learning the limitations of each is the only realistic solution, and one that requires time. If this particular AF system is getting in the way of your photography more often than not, and you can't find a suitable work-around, I strongly recommend developing a manual focus only workflow. In this case, view the AF as a little extra bonus feature that you can use from time to time. If you really need reliable, low light focus on a regular basis, get a newer Panasonic LUMIX G (GX8, etc.). Most reliable AF I have ever seen. Leica lenses adapt quite well for manual focus work too. Good luck, and please keep us posted.
  19. Many thanks for everyone's replies. I suspected it was normal and that appears to be the case. I'm really looking forward to shooting with this lens.
  20. After reading many good things, I decided to try this lens for my M8 (and Lumix GX8). The first thing I noticed was the lack of dampening of the focus ring compared to both my 50mm Summicron (Version IV) and 135mm Tele-Elmar f/4 (late 80's vintage). Both of those lenses have rings that are slightly too stiff for my taste, so part of me doesn't mind the less dampened ring of this Summarit. However it is *much* less dampened. Having just purchased it, and very much in like new condition, I want to make sure this isn't a potential mechanical problem with my sample. Just to clarify, everything else about the ring is fine - consistent movement throughout its range, no rough spots, and it's not so under dampened that it rotates freely with gravity. Any feedback from current or former owners is appreciated - thanks.
  21. Does anyone know the chronology of packaging designs for Leica M lenses and bodies? I realize this has been asked before in this forum, but I haven't read a definitive answer. It appears the gray boxes came into use around 2002 and of course continue into 2016. I'm mostly curious to know when the white boxes came into use (especially for USA / Canada). Serial numbers are usually the best way to determine a product's date of manufacture, but it's nice to have a general timeline to approximate the date if a vendor happens to include the box.
  22. I purchased a 109 a few weeks ago and noticed a large dust spot in the viewfinder and the same spot in the LCD, which means it was likely on the sensor. I immediately returned it to the dealer (Adorama) who sent a replacement overnight at no charge. The new one is dust free, even after some use in a dusty environment. I'm hoping it stays that way. Keep us posted on your repair experience.
  23. This is my first post here, and I'm still learning the terrain of the forum a bit. I'm a new owner of the V-Lux and I'm wondering if anyone has any good experiences with wired or wireless remotes for the Typ 114. I'm aware that the DMW-RSL1 will work, just curious what to hear what other options have been tried. Thanks.
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