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Everything posted by Soden

  1. I find the M10 renders closer to the M9 than the M240. Is that also true of the M10m, that it renders closer to the M9m than the M246?
  2. Don't open on your computer, copy it to the SD at the top directory. Insert card into your camera and start. When you downloaded the update, there was a document on how to install... follow its instructions. The M9 does not have acrobat installed...
  3. I find with My ULM10 that if I take the battery out soon after it says full I get 1200Ah. However if I just let it sit for a while the battery drains to about 800Ah. It does not matter if I use my iPhone converter or my QC3
  4. When the the stars line up, ie: money and availability. I will upgrade... I Loved the MM1, but the coverglass issue caught me (on two M9s and MM1). The M246 is better in all ways other than image quality. I'm hoping that the M10m is best of both worlds. The M10p is certainly better than the M240.
  5. To be more direct and to the point... I pick my gear based on the environment and the type of subject i'll be shooting. Every environment requires its own selection, and a change of environment changes the gear in use. If I go to a location, I take the gear necessary for the multiple types of subjects. An example, If I am going to an interesting town for street, I also take the gear for architecture, etc. True I try to overlap my gear so I'm not taking too much. Your style and interests will determine what you match with what body. M9 is better with low ISO, so to get the best a more controlled environment is better. Having two M10s allows you to switch combinations much quicker. But again what that combination is, is environment/style dependent.
  6. I use pocket wizard and a sekonic light meter. Leica make a remote trigger flash and I think priolite makes a Leica compatible remote triggered strobe. While you can use some Nikon flash cables none of the flash you mentioned are Leica compatible, unless you use manually.
  7. Soden


    I too love the 75/2.0. I had the 75/2.5 and after the second time it needed service, I traded it for a 2.0. The 2.0 and 2.5 are about the same size with the hood attached (summarit hood is not retractable and a pain to change filters). I mostly use it in combination with my 28/1.4. A great two lens kit, and as a bonus they are both 49mm. Yes, the 75 is the best of the summarits, and a lovely lens, but... no match for the APO.
  8. Actually, I'd take it one step further. Since on the new Macro-Adapter-M you can mount any lens, all Leica M and R lenses should be able to be selected, much like the R-Adapter-M lists almost all R lenses. If of course this is the older Macro-Adapter-M (different 6-bit code) then only the 90/4 Macro lens should be listed.
  9. Soden

    New Safari

    With my experience with Leica USA, it's better to go through Wetzlar. It will cost you one day each direction of shipping, but save months of service time.
  10. I don't see why, I use the old version on the new Macro Adapter and the hood is unaffected.
  11. I always wished for the one with the removable hood, but never got around to it. That cheap plastic hood is the worst... but now that I have the .95 version as well... Yes, it does seem odd that they didn't change the part number when they changed the appearance, but that’s leica for you..
  12. The 14290, E60 is on my f/1 Noctilux, f/.095 Noctilux, f/1.4 75 summilux, Vario-Elmar-R 80-200, etc. However there are two version, one with "Leitz Leica" and the other just "Leica". Depending when produced, it could have either. Same part number, same size, no idea when it was changed. The version 2 Noctilux? The first was a f/1.2, usually referred to as the f/1.2 Noctilux. The f/1 Noctilux had several version, based on hood, place of manufacture. The 58mm was the first f/1 Noctilux but the second noctilux. The Second f/1 Noctilux was 60mm with a removable hood. The third was a retractible plastic hood. The early versions were all Canadian made, later versions were both german and Canadian made. (Not sure if place of manufacture counts as a version...) My f/1 noctilux is canadian made with a retractible plastic hood that came 6-bit coded from the factory. One of the last standard units made before the .95 was announced.
  13. I had some Pro Photo insurance for a time but it got too expensive. Over $2k per year. I was in an accident, the repairs were only $1k... I too would like some reasonable insurance... but Leica gear is high in value... But if you want a reference the agency was Tom Pickering
  14. I did both. The repair cost one thousand, in its damaged state it was worth about one thousand. Repaired it was worth over three thousand. Traded it for a used M10-p. I had no insurance...
  15. Macro-elmarit-R 60 would also do the trick and it’s sharper than most V lenses.
  16. Maybe the left mind? For 75 focal length I like the longer throw, I can get more accurate focus, but you need patience. Maybe it is this last attribute that is lacking.
  17. Besides the obvious of size, weight and aperture there is the look. The 75 lux is very soft. Very close to the f/1 Noctilux in feel. It’s great for women’s portraits, very romantic wide open. Stopped down and it changes personally, clean, sharp but not overly so. The 75 APO, is sharp, extremely so if you want high resolution and detail, it’s a better choice
  18. I have both the 75 Lux and the 75 APO. I have had the 75 Summarit. I felt the 75 Summarit was too close to the 75 Lux stopped down. The 75 APO is in entirely different sphere, it's very much an APO, much like my 50 APO or 90 APO. My primary focal length is 28, but when a longer focal length is called for I take the 75 APO for daily walk about. If I am going to do portraits, then I take the 75 Lux. I bought the 75 Summarit as a light travel lens, but with the hood from hell, it's size becomes the same as the 75 APO. My 75 Summarit developed a serious issue (the front element fell off) and when it came back from repair, I traded it for a used 75 APO. The difference in weight has never been a problem, but the added resolution on my Monochrom was significant and the ability to change filters without removing the hood is an advantage. Don't get me wrong, I love Mandler era lenses, and the 75 Summarit does deserve the praise of being the best of the Summarits, but the 75 APO is a modern, high resolution, uber sharp lens. The 75 APO is also my main choice for Macro/close focus. It's just a superb all around lens.
  19. You assume incorrectly, The Overgaard hood screws on the same external threads as the leica hood does, leaving the filter threads unused. I use the Breakthrough Technology filter and it works fine. However it does lock the hood in place, because of the little grip knobs on the filter. Since the optical cell travels 100% within the body of the lens this works, and works well. Patents are not the users concern.
  20. I ditched the hood, went with one of Thorsten Overgaard’s.
  21. Well, there are two ways to judge an image, very large and very small. This flower is the size of a pea. Taken with the macro adapter with no cropping. But since it’s been judged as not possible to make such determination via the web. I’ll take my 50 apo and go shooting and forget this group. As this has degenerated as he says, she says as validation of ones own opinions
  22. Obviously, if you can’t conceive of something, it can’t be true. Not that the 50 lux isn’t a wonderful lens. I’ve had both and made my choice.
  23. I guess there is no accounting for taste. Sorry I forgot the primary rule, never post photos in this forum. Don’t worry I’ll never do it again.
  24. I guess you’ve never tried it...
  25. Maybe you, but not Focus shift. MJH gave a very complete discourse on the subject. Focus shift is masked by changing aperture not created by changing aperture. I have tested this phenomenon (as said earlier) with a f/1 noctilux at f/1, by simply changing the filter.
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