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    Neuer Benutzer
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  1. I find the M10 renders closer to the M9 than the M240. Is that also true of the M10m, that it renders closer to the M9m than the M246?
  2. Don't open on your computer, copy it to the SD at the top directory. Insert card into your camera and start. When you downloaded the update, there was a document on how to install... follow its instructions. The M9 does not have acrobat installed...
  3. I find with My ULM10 that if I take the battery out soon after it says full I get 1200Ah. However if I just let it sit for a while the battery drains to about 800Ah. It does not matter if I use my iPhone converter or my QC3
  4. When the the stars line up, ie: money and availability. I will upgrade... I Loved the MM1, but the coverglass issue caught me (on two M9s and MM1). The M246 is better in all ways other than image quality. I'm hoping that the M10m is best of both worlds. The M10p is certainly better than the M240.
  5. To be more direct and to the point... I pick my gear based on the environment and the type of subject i'll be shooting. Every environment requires its own selection, and a change of environment changes the gear in use. If I go to a location, I take the gear necessary for the multiple types of subjects. An example, If I am going to an interesting town for street, I also take the gear for architecture, etc. True I try to overlap my gear so I'm not taking too much. Your style and interests will determine what you match with what body. M9 is better with low ISO, so to get the best a more controlled environment is better. Having two M10s allows you to switch combinations much quicker. But again what that combination is, is environment/style dependent.
  6. I use pocket wizard and a sekonic light meter. Leica make a remote trigger flash and I think priolite makes a Leica compatible remote triggered strobe. While you can use some Nikon flash cables none of the flash you mentioned are Leica compatible, unless you use manually.
  7. Soden


    I too love the 75/2.0. I had the 75/2.5 and after the second time it needed service, I traded it for a 2.0. The 2.0 and 2.5 are about the same size with the hood attached (summarit hood is not retractable and a pain to change filters). I mostly use it in combination with my 28/1.4. A great two lens kit, and as a bonus they are both 49mm. Yes, the 75 is the best of the summarits, and a lovely lens, but... no match for the APO.
  8. Actually, I'd take it one step further. Since on the new Macro-Adapter-M you can mount any lens, all Leica M and R lenses should be able to be selected, much like the R-Adapter-M lists almost all R lenses. If of course this is the older Macro-Adapter-M (different 6-bit code) then only the 90/4 Macro lens should be listed.
  9. Soden

    New Safari

    With my experience with Leica USA, it's better to go through Wetzlar. It will cost you one day each direction of shipping, but save months of service time.
  10. I don't see why, I use the old version on the new Macro Adapter and the hood is unaffected.
  11. I always wished for the one with the removable hood, but never got around to it. That cheap plastic hood is the worst... but now that I have the .95 version as well... Yes, it does seem odd that they didn't change the part number when they changed the appearance, but that’s leica for you..
  12. The 14290, E60 is on my f/1 Noctilux, f/.095 Noctilux, f/1.4 75 summilux, Vario-Elmar-R 80-200, etc. However there are two version, one with "Leitz Leica" and the other just "Leica". Depending when produced, it could have either. Same part number, same size, no idea when it was changed. The version 2 Noctilux? The first was a f/1.2, usually referred to as the f/1.2 Noctilux. The f/1 Noctilux had several version, based on hood, place of manufacture. The 58mm was the first f/1 Noctilux but the second noctilux. The Second f/1 Noctilux was 60mm with a removable hood. The third was a retractible plastic hood. The early versions were all Canadian made, later versions were both german and Canadian made. (Not sure if place of manufacture counts as a version...) My f/1 noctilux is canadian made with a retractible plastic hood that came 6-bit coded from the factory. One of the last standard units made before the .95 was announced.
  13. I had some Pro Photo insurance for a time but it got too expensive. Over $2k per year. I was in an accident, the repairs were only $1k... I too would like some reasonable insurance... but Leica gear is high in value... But if you want a reference the agency was Tom Pickering
  14. I did both. The repair cost one thousand, in its damaged state it was worth about one thousand. Repaired it was worth over three thousand. Traded it for a used M10-p. I had no insurance...
  15. Macro-elmarit-R 60 would also do the trick and it’s sharper than most V lenses.
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