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Jon Warwick

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  1. Even with my M7 too, if the electronics become utterly broken and irreparable, I'm assuming it would still "work" via the 1/60 and 1/125 back-up mechanical shutter setting. So I don't foresee my M7 as ever becoming a paperweight; nor do I envisage 1/60 or 1/125 as that limiting, with those speeds covering many situations with (say) a 50mm or wider lens when hand-held.
  2. Fantastic. Many thanks. An initial read of both articles (the first one with the hand-drawn graphs is mesmerising!) suggests, knowing me, that I could end up messing up my rangefinder accuracy more than it already is. Given it focuses accurately and prints are tack sharp, I might hold off and add the adjustment to the lengthening list of things that now need CLA'ing on my M7 whenever i finally send it to Germany after nearly 20 years of ownership. For now it's just a bit disconcerting that when I get the pupil correctly aligned horizontally, I can see a 1/4 of an "extra" pupil above it
  3. Vertical alignment looks perfect at infinity. BUT ...vertical alignment is incorrect at the close focus range for head portraits, ie, the eyeball in the rangefinder patch is very slightly higher than where it should be. This makes precise focus on the eyeball harder because (even with a slight misalignment) the image through the viewfinder never sharply "snaps" into view! How is it possible that Vertical calibration is perfect at infinity ....but not close up? I only have 1 lens so haven't tested with another lens, but presumably it's rangefinder calibration that can only c
  4. FWIW, as a GFX100S owner with a GF 63m lens, I personally have found the lens to be very good indeed, such that I don't now have the desire to bolt on anything Leica via an adapter. IMHO, with no post processing, my observation of the SL and S output is that their lovely rendering does feel slightly more "gentle" than the GFX100S .....but now I wonder just how much of this is due to different inherent contrasts of the Fuji GFX100S output vs Leica SL/S output, ie, is the former inherently higher contrast with blacks that are more jet black and where shadows are less open than the SL/S outp
  5. IMHO every lens is so different that the only way I've decided what I prefer is to try them on the main type of subject I like to photograph (eg, portraits? landscapes? etc). For example, many people might think the M 50 APO is fantastic, and I owned it for several years, but personally I sometimes found its high contrast and high acuity rendering to be difficult for me to tame ....my preference is more for lots of fine detail (ie, resolution) that combines with a "gentle" rendering (ie, less contrast, less acuity), because it helps me gets towards my preference for a more filmic look t
  6. That's quite the combo to help improve focus. As I'm currently considering a 1.25x magnifier (on my 0.72x M7) similarly for close distance people shots, can i ask if you found the magnifier helped, or not make a great difference?
  7. Someone can correct me if I'm wrong, but I don't think the M6 TTL has the MP finder, based purely on my early M7 that I purchased in 2002 doesn't even have the MP finder. In my case, I'm looking to have Leica upgrade it, sometimes the rangefinder patch in my M7 whites out to the extent that it can be barely usable for me, even after readjusting my eye through the viewfinder. I find my M7 generally harder to focus than my M240. I don't know how much closer an MP finder will get me towards the clear and contrasty M240 finder (ie, is contrast even better in the M240 onwards due to their electro
  8. Very helpful, many thanks. If you use the 1/8 pro mist filter to take a portrait in non-bright light (so the halation effect on highlights is less apparent).....what's the effect? Does it help to make skin look less "digitally captured" in terms of seeing every minor detail like pores / fine wrinkles / small hairs, or not really?
  9. Thanks. I've ordered a Tiffen "Digital Diffusion FX" to see what I think ....apparently it might help to soften skin blemishes, but without generically destroying the overall sharpness of the image, nor does it add halation. I agree with you that it's a personal preference so I think I just need to dive in and see where I get to!
  10. I was taking a look at the Tiffen website and its diffusion filter options, which seem more expansive (and confusing to me personally, given the huge choice on offer!) than I'd expected. I understand the Black Pro-Mist can encourage a halation spill effect, which perhaps produces something reminiscent of a traditionally cinematic & film look. For Portraits specifically, I guess what I'm looking for is a filter that takes the "edge" off the digital sensor, making the image more subtle for Portraits (ie, in order to reduce the small wrinkles, pores and fine hair that digital seems
  11. Is there any benefit of an in-built 0.85x viewfinder .... vs 0.72x combined with (say) the 1.25x magnifier? Thinking is one clearer / brighter / sharper than the other? I haven't used either, but am currently considering both options for my early-production M7 because I'm looking to have the viewfinder upgraded anyhow to the flare-free MP version.
  12. I think that’s a sensible answer. Also consider do you want the 35mm-style 3x2 output from the Leica S, or a more typical sensor/film ratio of medium format? The latter was something that I personally much prefer. I have not used the S3, and cannot answer the OP’s specific question. I have used the S007 and S006, but I think they’re so very very different in many ways to the GFX100S that I now own ….eg, optical viewfinder vs EVF, single vs multiple focus points in the viewfinder, no IBIS vs IBIS, mirror slap vs no vibration with electronic shutter when handholding ….and do you want automatic f
  13. I'd always imported my RRS plates directly from them, but I'm not sure RRS are shipping anymore to the UK based on the comments here (Orders, Shipping, & Returns (reallyrightstuff.com)). I did own the RRS SL2 base plate, but sold it on commission via a UK dealer (given I moved over to a GFX100S). As per Michael's comments, Photospecialist is apparently one option for RRS' new stuff in Europe. In terms of the used market, apart from mine, I haven't seen too many SL2 plates from RRS, but one can see plates for older cameras like the M240 come up more frequently. I've found all the RRS pla
  14. Historically I never worried about shoving film (ISO 100) through the hand luggage x-ray machines because it never damaged my film despite numerous passes, but I’ve recently read of possible film-fogging problems with the newer CT scanners that are cropping up for hand-luggage. I even used to travel with the 5x4 in my hand-luggage, but I think that’s on ice these days because of what I read re these CT scanners and getting a hand check of a box of 5x4 film (“no, please, you really can’t open it!”) might be even more bother. I assume a hand inspection of 35mm or 120 in a clear plastic bag is e
  15. Version 2 = 5x4 Provia 100 that was drum-scanned. I didn't change any color sliders here. It's a small crop at 100% from what would be a 60" wide print ..... given the combo of much larger print size here + 110mm lens on the 5x4, which would equate to around 28mm on a 35mm equivalent (the M240 image was done with a 50mm), the scale of the subject is conveniently roughly similar in both images
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