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Everything posted by jaapv

  1. There are quite a few things fixed to my 60.000 Euro car by the same sticky tape
  2. You'll find it quite intuitive. Once you get the hang of the menu system, it is easy to set up to your taste. The default profile is quite useable, though. I cannot echo the JPG-only option expressed above. To me it is rather silly. Set the camera to DNG+JPG. Use the JPG if you feel like it, but keep the DNG in case one wants to process the image further. I does not cost anything, except a bit of memory space. The CL DNGs can take quite a beating if needed.
  3. Personally I prefer the Zeiss. Although both lenses are of impeccable quality, the Zeiss renders a bit more delicate wide open. I would call the images more transparant.
  4. Especially as the "lens profiles" are mainly for a bit of vignetting correction, nothing else. They change nothing in the rendering.
  5. I am NOT going to edit the title of the topic. I'll just add "image thread." I've slept fine without a Noctilux all these years, it is one lens I have absolutely no interest in.
  6. The Thumbie for 30$ - and it leaves the hot shoe free...
  7. it is not very difficult to code Zeiss lenses.
  8. Japanese is worse. Do you know what a “lamp” mode is? I figured it out in the end. B=Bulb=Lamp. (Canon)
  9. The frame line lever functions as a further 3-position input making it nearly 190 ( the WATE messes things up ) varieties.
  10. 1. Entirely up to your shooting style. The Summilux 35 should be an excellent starting point. 2. Zeiss ZM lenses are high-quality alternatives. Nothing bad to say about them.
  11. Suffer - - it is an annoyance, nothing more. I guess, if one has a habit of switching the camera off before dropping it onto its strap, one would never notice.
  12. Answered in another thread: sharpness is a meaningless term and contrast irrelevant.
  13. I use the hand grip too; it makes no difference.
  14. jaapv


    AFAIK the USA importer applies "grey import" rules, which means that you need to turn to Wetzlar for guaranty.
  15. I must disagree here, Martin. Layers are one of the powerful features of Photoshop, and miles ahead of the competition. It is well worth honing your skills in that respect. My opinion of Nik is a bit opposite yours - I always found the results of the plugin somewhat regurgitated.
  16. OK everybody has had his/her say. Let's draw a line. In general, I do think there is too little (constructive) critique in the photo forums. After all, most if not all of us would like to learn - and to teach.
  17. 1. i am probably one of the most vocal critics of the wandering focus point. Even so, to me it is not a deal-breaker. My workaround is to set LCD-EVF to Auto and use double-tap to centre the focus point. 2. Sorry, never tried it. I only use the app to transfer images to my phone. 3. Lightroom, Photoshop, Capture One, Luminar, ON1, etc. All excellent choices and purely a matter of personal preference.
  18. I usually read the Leica manuals in German, their translations are a bit better than LFI, but nor by a wide margin. Hey! Now you can be sure that the camera is made in Germany
  19. You could try to heat the assembly a bit (not over 60ºC to spare the oil) to get expansion to free the ring.
  20. Putting a photograph in the forum is to invite critique. As long as it does not get destructive or ad-hominem, (like the use of the word "phony", btw) it is all part of the game. It is a fact of life that some people will like your photographic style, others won't. Both are free to express their opinion. Having said that, if you feel slighted or persecuted by a post, there is a report button at the bottom of the post window. Use that to alert the moderating team.
  21. Have you compared the two EVFs? I did and the difference is marginal, the lower resolution of the CL is not really visible and the high-speed-movement "stutter" performance better. On static subjects I prefer the SL, on fast-moving subjects the CL.
  22. "Sharpness" is not a quantifiable technical parameter, so that part of you question cannot be answered. What do you mean by contrast? The resolution is the same on both sensors. The dynamic range is similar. There may be an insignificant difference in the response curve of the sensor at the lower and higher end roll-off, but it will not make a visible difference. The contrast in your photograph is determined by your post-processing. Again, a meaningless question to base a camera choice on. If you want an optical viewfinder, manual focusing and are willing to learn to use a rang
  23. It is completely impossible to use SL lenses on the M. That would appear, to me, to be a major issue.
  24. Given that most if not all Leica lenses will produce an image quality that is far beyond the needs of the average photographer, it is a bit of an academic question. However, as the design of the SL lenses is less constrained by size than the M lenses - M lenses need to obstruct the viewfinder as little as possible-, it is to be expected that the SL lenses, in general, will outperform their M counterparts.
  25. The Nokton has noticeable focus shift as well. You'll find a considerable number of threads on the subject in the various forums, including this one. Basically any fast 50 mm lens will exhibit a certain amount of focus shift, unless it is compensated by floating elements.
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