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Everything posted by jaapv

  1. In the end, you don't even need to jump through all these hoops to enjoy the camera. Use it out of the box for a while. The default profile is well thought out. Only change settings when you need to, and when you have changed a number of them, save it as a profile. The user profiles are not set in stone; you can always change them again.
  2. The memory card is just a place where you can save the profiles you made. Forget about it for now. Basically, the menus are so self-explanatory that you don't even have to open the manual. Go to the menu place I indicated (which is what is meant by set in menu) and begin by setting things you don't need to "off" Then you can set things that you do need to "on" Save by exiting the menu properly and go to user profiles --> manage profiles and "save as profile no 1 " Then you can rename your profile Go through the same procedure for Profile 2 etc. Swapping wheels is only an
  3. To which I might add - fiddling around with a zillion of settings in the field is not going to get you better photograohs, quite the opposite - it is going to produce second-rate confused shots. Use the menus and settings to make a few user profiles to suit the photographic situations you find yourself in and your preferred camera settings for those situations. For instance: standard (which may well be factory default) low light long lens action etc. You will only have to choose the appropriate user profile, maybe change one or two settings according to the pre
  4. So do so. The assignment of functions is a user setting. Go to menu --> main menu --> customize control; here you can edit favourites, FN button, Right wheel button. Plus switch left and right button. For each you can make eight choices from a long list and differentiate as much as you want..
  5. I normally just slam it closed and open it. I'll time it. Edit: 18 seconds to login.
  6. Vermutlch weil sie -unbeabsichtigt- in der falsche (zu gross) Grösse eingestellt wurden.
  7. Slightly surprised. My mid-2010 MacPro runs smoothly on High Sierra 10.13.4, my Macbook Air mid-2011 as well.
  8. No, the contrast in night street scenes is quite high. You need to expose exactly for the essential part of the image and let the shadows and highlights fall how they may. A general EV compensation is too imprecise. Leica's centre-weighed exposure metering and manual settings are perfect for the job. I would advise against Auto-ISO on the M 10 as well. The ISO dial gives more control.
  9. Color-Heliar 75-2.5 Rather pleased with this lens. Together with the Color-Skopar 25-4.0 it makes for a miniature powerful system
  10. In think this post : https://www.l-camera-forum.com/topic/287222-solo-exhibition-coming-up/ proves Mr. DigiL 100% wrong. (And the MP brigade on this forum too, I would suggest) The same 24 MP produces a great exhibition. The proof of the pudding is in the eating - this one appears to be rather tasty.
  11. Consider Leica's mini-tripod. Add a light ballhead and it can double as a chest-pod. Quite effective too.
  12. Your best lens for night shots is likely to be the Summicron 35. Expose properly, don't worry about clipping irelevant specular highlights. For slow shutter speeds: Hold the camera properly Lean against something Breathe out before releasing Don't jab the shutter button, gently is the word Take bursts instead of single shots. Sit down, use your elbows as a tripod. You should be able to go down to 1/8th
  13. Not just the ISO knob. The whole interior of an M body is shaped to accommodate the specific components contained therein. So you would need to change both bodyshell castings and everything connected to them. In the end you would only be keeping the hot shoe and shutter button
  14. No, it didn't. But it did matter to Hasselblad, as it shifted their customer base. For Hasselblad that was a necessary move, as their audience was dwindling in the direction of zero. The shift was preceded by some desperate attempts, like the Lunar, but with the X1D they seem to have pulled it off. However, their original customers have nowhere to go now. Leica has already gone through this phase with the M8 and diversifying with the X, SL and CL. The interesting thing is, that they managed to hang onto their original customer base by evolving the M series. This puts them in a much stron
  15. I had such a fingerprint on the inside from Leica CS once
  16. Just look at that histogram of Dunk's shot: Nearly all tonal values are completely bunched up to the left half. It has no white point and no black point.That leaves half the tonal range. Tonal range is what the Monochrom is about. I would suggest you check your monitor, BTW. On my shots black was set at 5,5,5, white at 250,250,250. On my Eizo CG the shadows and highlights are well differentiated and the images would print well. Do you happen to use a Retina screen? Those make a mess of contrast, especially older ones. I agree that SE is nice for starters, but can easily be
  17. An idea I have had as well. Both the photo styles and the critique are vastly different between the German side and the International side. A merging of the Photoforums might produce interesting results. Or a work overload for the moderators .
  18. However, there is little to discuss about the future of the M. It will continue to evolve, nothing more, nothing less.
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