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analoguser

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About analoguser

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  1. I have the rear lens portion of the TELYT 400 6.8 which appears to have some fungus contamination. Does anybody in the USA fix this problem? I have contacted Mr. Ye and Ms. Krauter who inform me that they don't do this type of work. I'm not inclined, and may not have the ability to do this myself. Analoguser
  2. Thank you all for your input much appreciated.
  3. For decades (literally) I have been searching for (the perhaps mythical?) adapter #14138 which allows fitting the 280 1:4.8 Telyt to the Televit grip as depicted in Jim Lagers book "Lenses Vol. II" on page 218. I cannot find this item anywhere in the world. This has got to be one of the most arcane and impossible to find items in the entire history of Leitz accessories. First of all does anyone know where to find one? Second, does anyone know of a precision machine shop used to dealing with photographic equipment that can make one? Analoguser
  4. I have not needed any work on any of my Leica M lenses in quite a while. But now I have two 50mm lenses that need some work. My 50mm Rigid Summicon has a loose aperture indicator dot that freely circulates around the lens barrel. It is perfectly functional but this is bothersome. The other lens is a 50 mm Elmar f2.8 collapsable which is also perfectly usable but the the aperture scale and indicator dot are located way down on the left side of the lens barrel when it is mounted on a camera body which is also bothersome. M question is now that John Van Stelton at Focal Point is closed, who is a
  5. Gentlemen, Thank you all for your responses. It is refreshing to communicate with individuals who have real respect and knowledge of the Leica system. Your answers. Have been very useful to me both out of general interest and for amusing further research. I may have the answer to my question right in my closet! Thanks again. Analoguser.
  6. Is there a way to use the old Leica M, Visoflex, Telyte lenses on the M10. is there an adapter out there? Seems like the proper adapter could match the focal point of the lens to the sensor in the camera and then one could use the electronic visoflexor live action screen on the back of the camera to focus? I hope I have stated this idea correctly, I am no optical technician.
  7. I have emailed camerawork-uk and they seem very impressive. I was referred to a their Facebook page which looks very interesting indeed. https://www.facebook.com/LeicaRepairs/. Hope this helps anyone interested in this topic.
  8. Thanks for the replies . And, Yes I was referring to Duracoat. I look forward to greene881's results. The site claims to have a rapid turn around time.
  9. Has anyone out there had any experience with CAMERAWORKS-UK? Their web page shows some very nice work, especially with something called the RACOTE finish. this seems almost too god to be true. camerawork-uk.com
  10. Recently I purchased a Leicavit which to all appearances appears new or at least is in mint condition. But I have tried for fit it to my IIIG and two IIIfs and it will fit with only the most insistent effort and the lock mechanism will not travel to the full lock position. In the past I have purchased a T. Abrahamsson Rapidwinder for the screw mount cameras. and It fits better but doesn't wind the cameras (all three) very well. In the past I have talked to a few Leica camera repair men and they don't recommend using the Leicavit on the screw mount cameras. As an aside I have purchased a new Le
  11. Thank you gentlemen for your comments. Perhaps Stand development is inappropriate for attempting to control highlights and more conventional dilutions (1-24, 1-50) are the answer. Still this process of setting things up and simply letting the chemistry work it’s magic is interesting. Developing film this way seems almost effortless which may prove the adage that one gets from things what you put into it.
  12. I have ben experimenting with Rodinal and Ilford HP5 +. I rate the film at 400 as suggested on the box and stand develop with Rodinal 1-100 20 deg. C for one hr. My results have generally been very good. Especially on overcast days when excessive contrast is not a problem. Actually under these conditions I am occasionally astonished at how well these negatives print. However on bright sunny days when contrast is much greater I sometimes get highlights with out much detail (sometimes almost none) usually involving elements of the negative recording bright white subjects such as a white painted
  13. I know that an M Leica is a “fast” camera in the right hands and can be used quickly in many situations especially when using B & W film which has great exposure latitude and can be very forgiving in the darkroom. But I can also remember my father with his M3 and an add on meter as he carefully and contemplatively went about photographing. It seemed to me to be an experience which involved one more in the process than just snapping off shots with an automatic camera. I believe it fostered (back then by necessity) a deeper knowledge of what the process was from visualization to print. I t
  14. What would be the "horror of horrors" about a digitalized meter? I don't understand this comment.
  15. The first thing I noticed when viewing pictures of the new Leica M -A, all mechanical camera was the notch on the shutter speed dial indicating that it would accept any of the old clip on meters (MR-4 etc.) It makes me wonder if Leica has plans for a similar meter for the new camera and if it would be usable for any of the old non metered M cameras? Wouldn’t it be wonderful to equip an older M Leica with an updated, accurate, easy to use, digitalized M type meter?
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