Snow flurry outside - time to savor remembrance of late summer days ...
"In the Waiting Loop", Gargnano, Lago di Garda, Lombardia, Italia
Hello guest! Please register or sign in to view the hidden content. Hallo Gast! Du willst die Bilder sehen? Einfach registrieren oder anmelden!Nikon F2A, Nikkor 28mm f/2.0, Kodak Color Plus 200
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Make sure there isn't a default 'Clarity' or 'Structure' software setting interfering with your SL2 scans. I don't use Lightroom but I guess ACR is similar for both and I've found any sharpening or Clarity adjustments within ACR play havoc with grain (for example clarity can start to make geometric patterns out of grain). I scan with a Nikon Z7 and it produces authentic looking grain right out of the camera (your SL2 should as well), but nothing high tech is switched on, so no image stabilisation (the Devil makes work for idle IBIS), just aperture priority and the lowest ISO setting. After going through ACR I then use ColorPerfect to invert the negative Tiff file whether B&W or colour, and again with nothing other than the default/auto setting. The image is then finished in Photoshop.
That aside I would check to see if you get less grain by switching pixel shift off, it isn't an option on the Z7 so I've never tried it myself but I wonder how it copes with grain? As for noise reduction software I've never come across any that can properly distinguish grain from attendant noise.
I'm assuming the OP is using or wants to use M lenses and is thinking of a Visoflex for speed of focusing on things in motion, yet people are recommending the SL, odd that?
I've had an SL and yes indeed its EVF is very good, but using it with M lenses and for precise focusing you need to open the aperture to maximum each time or you end up 'seeing' the DOF and not the actual focus point. So at f/2 you have minimum DOF so can focus on the actual thing, at f/8 the actual thing is masked by the increased front and back focus from the DOF. Same as if you use the focus assist, at f/8 on a wide lens it tells you everything is in focus no matter how near or how far, but only tells what thing is focused on if you open up to f/2. Obviously just like hyper focal focusing there will be a level of 'acceptable sharpness' at f/8 in front of and behind the actual focus point, but you can read that off the lens scale and don't need an EVF for it. As a reminder an SLR overcomes this problem by opening the lens aperture to focus and closes it on operating the shutter.
Clearly the problem of focusing on the exact point of focus while stopped down will exist whether it's a Visoflex or the SL's EVF, so if the OP wants to use M lenses why recommend the OP changes the camera to an SL or CL, it gets him nowhere? The real conclusion is that it isn't possible to accurately focus quickly with M lenses using an EVF with an M or any alternative camera unless the aperture is fully opened to focus, but it is possible to see the general area of focus when stopped down. But as focus changes opening the aperture, focus, close the aperture, recompose, each and every time through the EVF is a very cumbersome exercise.
M lenses and EVF's are for more leisurely and perfectly accurate focusing and an EVF ticks the box mightily. For speed with an M camera use the rangefinder, it's as fast as the camera and lens combination can go, there is nothing to 'mask' the actual focus point, and if it isn't fast enough then that is when a different camera is needed.