gerrard2 Posted August 4, 2009 Share #1 Posted August 4, 2009 Advertisement (gone after registration) hey all, I've just purchased an M8 and 50mm Summicron and spent some time looking at the various posts here on the forum. One new post by egibaud about fast focusing issues has me wondering how you actually focus fast? I know many say use the hyperfocal method, set on f8 and infinity and go for it, but what happens when the light isn't that good? can you just set it on f2 at infinity and hope for the best? The final question is more about rangefinders. I get that you use the small square to ensure the lines line up, but I've been confused as to how you'd take a portrait of someone with the head at the top. Is it ok to put the focus point on her face and then move the leica down to compose so that she is fully in the frame? Sorry if this seems a bit confusing, i'm still struggling to get to grips with manual focusing methods. Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Advertisement Posted August 4, 2009 Posted August 4, 2009 Hi gerrard2, Take a look here Fast focusing and portraiture. I'm sure you'll find what you were looking for!
plasticman Posted August 4, 2009 Share #2 Posted August 4, 2009 Focussing 'fast' with lenses like the Noctilux wide open I do this: I get a 'ball-park' focus on something obvious (like nostrils) and then to take the shot I rock back and forth slightly to nail the exact focus fast. I guess this wouldn't work if you wanted to catch Paris Hilton running into a club from her limo, but if it's family and friends then you can usually have the time (even if it's a couple seconds). Moving the plane of focus (ie: focussing on the head then centering the body) will actually shift the focus slightly - you'll have to test whether this is significant with your lens, as the amount will vary according to lens, distance from subject, and aperture. Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jaapv Posted August 4, 2009 Share #3 Posted August 4, 2009 There is only one real answer: practise, practise, and practise again. It is really a matter of RF experience. Annoy your wife and play with a camera when watching TV, etc. Tricks: Best focus is not when the patches coincide, it is when the contrast suddenly increases on coinciding patches Don't "hunt" You have a better chance of getting ideal focus if you hit it in one go. If you can prefocus: focus at the spot where you expect the action, When it happens release at the moment of focus. You can add little taps to the focus ring to this technique. Always reset the focus to infinity. That way you will know which way you are going. Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sandokan Posted August 4, 2009 Share #4 Posted August 4, 2009 At f2 or f4 with the 50mm, guess the distance to the subject (practice makes perfect) and set that and hope the DoF takes care of it. Remember that the DoF scale with the M8 is not the same as on the lenses which are marked for film/full frame. Instead, as a guess, if you are using f8, use the f5.6 (one stop more) as your indicators for DoF. Yes it is OK to focus on the head and then angle the camera to capture the scene. Maybe at the closest focus setting with a 'Lux you may have to hope that DoF covers the eyes. Welcome to the Leica world, Ravi Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sandokan Posted August 4, 2009 Share #5 Posted August 4, 2009 Hey Plasticman - I will try your suggestion too. Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
eleskin Posted August 4, 2009 Share #6 Posted August 4, 2009 Well, I have a 50mm Summicron and a Noctilux made in the 1990's, and the Summicron focuses much much faster in that the focusing ring is smaller and rotates very rapidly as opposed to the larger diameter Noctilux. I do portrait work with the 50mm Summicron and have no problems getting the subject in sharp focus. I also use strobes, and my f stop falls between f5.6 and f8.0 with razor sharp results. One thing to consider. Buy an eyepiece magnifier 1.33x or so. I bought mine on Ebay from HK Supply in Hong Kong for $50 USD. This thing helps enormously with focusing accuracy in that it magnifies the 50mm frame lines and rangefinder patch as well, hence making it easier to see the details within the rangefinder patch in the center of the frame. With this it is much easier to get focus dead on right. I know this very well in that I use the eyepiece magnifier with my 50mm Noctilux which is notorious for being very hard to focus t f1.0. I have had no problems bringing the subject in focus with my Noctilux, and the 50mm is much easier in being an f2.0 lens (greater depth of field at f2.0). Hope this helps you. Ed PS: I always tell people who shoot portraits to make sure the eyes of the subject are in focus. If not, the shot will be useless. The eyes are the key. I will attach a Noctilux shot of my daughter to show you why the eyes are the most important of all in a portrait. Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here… Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! Quote Link to post Share on other sites Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! ' data-webShareUrl='https://www.l-camera-forum.com/topic/92479-fast-focusing-and-portraiture/?do=findComment&comment=982792'>More sharing options...
eleskin Posted August 4, 2009 Share #7 Posted August 4, 2009 Advertisement (gone after registration) Here is another portrait. A studio head shot with a 50mm Summicron of a former CEO of Bethlehem Steel Hank Barnette. Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
eleskin Posted August 4, 2009 Share #8 Posted August 4, 2009 Here is the photo Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here… Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! Quote Link to post Share on other sites Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! ' data-webShareUrl='https://www.l-camera-forum.com/topic/92479-fast-focusing-and-portraiture/?do=findComment&comment=982805'>More sharing options...
gerrard2 Posted August 4, 2009 Author Share #9 Posted August 4, 2009 very helpful replies all, cannot thank you enough. will annoy the lady tonight with the constant clicking. hey it's all in the name of progress Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
St Clair Posted August 4, 2009 Share #10 Posted August 4, 2009 (edited) As someone said earlier, practice makes perfect. I recently shot a street dancing festival here in Tokyo at night, quite fast paced action. All of these were shot at f/1.1 on an M8. Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here… Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! Edited August 4, 2009 by St Clair Quote Link to post Share on other sites Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! ' data-webShareUrl='https://www.l-camera-forum.com/topic/92479-fast-focusing-and-portraiture/?do=findComment&comment=982835'>More sharing options...
jaapv Posted August 4, 2009 Share #11 Posted August 4, 2009 Yes- the eyes, the heart of the portrait, I agree 100% Nokton 35/1.2 wide open. Illustrates another aspect: The M8 focussing also works at very low light without sending out Klingon beams...Sorry for the jpeg artifacting, I quickly lifted a smallish one from my site Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here… Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! Quote Link to post Share on other sites Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! ' data-webShareUrl='https://www.l-camera-forum.com/topic/92479-fast-focusing-and-portraiture/?do=findComment&comment=982846'>More sharing options...
QDIEM4SC Posted August 4, 2009 Share #12 Posted August 4, 2009 One of the reasons my keeper rate with the M8 is greater than with the D3 I used to own is that the M8 has forced me to cultivate my sense of anticipation. I spend more time considering the "framing" of the scene (which is the most important thing, next to having optimal lighting) and then I anticipate the moment---and click! You win some, you lose some... Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here… Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! Quote Link to post Share on other sites Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! ' data-webShareUrl='https://www.l-camera-forum.com/topic/92479-fast-focusing-and-portraiture/?do=findComment&comment=982849'>More sharing options...
plasticman Posted August 4, 2009 Share #13 Posted August 4, 2009 Great though a lot of these pictures are, I think the OP was looking mostly for tips more than a gallery of favorite images. Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jaapv Posted August 4, 2009 Share #14 Posted August 4, 2009 Well, I think our first responses catered to that, Mani;) - some hints on the use of the M8 for portraiture ( the second part of the thread title) are OK too imo... Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
andybarton Posted August 4, 2009 Share #15 Posted August 4, 2009 Most of these should be in the People Photo section.. That's what it's for. Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jaapv Posted August 4, 2009 Share #16 Posted August 4, 2009 Yeah, I should have linked, it IS in the People section somewhere. Lazy-lazy. Well off to patient # 43 today, all colleagues are on holiday Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jimleicam3 Posted August 4, 2009 Share #17 Posted August 4, 2009 Thanks JAAP for your advice. I enjoy your tips that you send out! It is great to have a pro who is willing to share his expert advice with the rest of us. Please continuing posting your tips and advice! Thanks, Jim Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
egibaud Posted August 4, 2009 Share #18 Posted August 4, 2009 Actualy I normally use my M8 at wide aperture. 2.0 / 1.4 / 1.0 (when Noctilux) so hyperfocal si very far away, and it is necessary to focus precisely. Of course when there is enough light and I want to play safe I go to F4 or F5.6 with a 35mm or 28mm and it is hard not to get things focused even without looking through the finder and just reading the meter scale. When using the Noctilux at 1.0 I find it easier to focus almost right and fine tune by moving by body forward or backword by a few centimeters. For me the M8 is the perfect camera for what it was made... day time street photography, very discreet, light camera, perfect. I've used it in Studio at F8 and it is very good too. As I do not shoot landscape nor flowers I cannot give your an opinion about it. When I am in no rush, the Leica M8 is surely the best camera I have. Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
gerrard2 Posted August 13, 2009 Author Share #19 Posted August 13, 2009 Hi all, Thought i'd give an update on the experiments so far. Using all the info given here, I've really learned a lot, so thank you. The one thing I am struggling with is taking a shot like this: Using my DSLR's, I'd set the focus point to be the far right. Now obviously I can't do this with the Leica, so what I've been doing is putting him in the centre of the frame, making sure he is in focus and then shifting the camera left. Thing is, it's not always sharp. I've tried using smaller apertures (as sometimes I shoot in low light and then f5.6 or f8, which does give better results. Problem is that I'm not always able to use higher f stops. Thanks again, this has been invaluable Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
pop Posted August 13, 2009 Share #20 Posted August 13, 2009 When you center your object, set the focus and then turn your camera to place your subject near the border of the picture, this is what happens: Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here… Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! (1) you move the lens so as to obtain a sharp image of the subject (2) As you turn the camera, the plane of your view on which you have set the focus will remain at the same distance from your camera, of course. However, after turning the camera, your subject will be on a plane (with respect to your camera and film) which is closer to the camera as it was when you set the focus. (please forgive the crude sketch. I could not take the time to do it cleanly). 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! (1) you move the lens so as to obtain a sharp image of the subject (2) As you turn the camera, the plane of your view on which you have set the focus will remain at the same distance from your camera, of course. However, after turning the camera, your subject will be on a plane (with respect to your camera and film) which is closer to the camera as it was when you set the focus. (please forgive the crude sketch. I could not take the time to do it cleanly). ' data-webShareUrl='https://www.l-camera-forum.com/topic/92479-fast-focusing-and-portraiture/?do=findComment&comment=992589'>More sharing options...
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