John Black

Looking at page 167, self timer applies to single shot and bracket shots. It appears they have not done the global self timer option that some cameras saw in the firmware updates in late '23 or early '24. https://leica-camera.com/sites/default/files/pm-108314-leica-sl3_instructions_en_1.0.pdf

SD Formatter's quick format only erases the file/directory entries (ie - file names and folder names). The camera's raw files (data) are technically still there and can be easily recovered with file recovery utilities. After a "quick format" the card shows X amount free and the camera over-writes whatever data was previously there. The Quick Format option does nothing in terms of erasing the card. A quick format is the same thing most digital cameras do when they "erase" or "format" data card using the in-camera option. Whereas the overwrite option erases the data. This low level format effectively restores the SD card to like new status, comparable to when it was first purchased - meaning, a "blank" memory card. The camera write new data in consecutive blocks, rather than skipping around and writing in non-consecutive memory blocks. In theory an SD card that was formatted via the "overwrite option" should perform better.

The Tele-Elmar has alot of CA in its bokeh. The Tele-Elmar is very sharp, no doubt that, but the CA really bugged me. The 135 APO does much better in that regard. And the weight difference quite noticeable if shooting handheld. The Tele-Elmar (the E46 version) is quite dense.

When traveling, I like lenses that are easy to focus and fast to use. I used a 35 Lux / 90 'Cron for years when traveling on business. Nowadays it would be even easier because there is so much "crop-ability" with 60 MP files from the Leica M's. The 90 APO isn't the easiest lens to focus, so it's worth having the EVF on hand.

@pgk and @apbphoto, I assume you're both talking about the pre-modular 280/2.8 APO. Folks often speaking highly of that lens, but I wasn't impressed with mine. As somebody noted earlier in this thread, the Canon EF 300/2.8 L IS was a whole other level. Anyways, back to the 280/2.8 APO. The Modular version is much better. It's sharp wide open and its CA at wide apertures is much reduced. That said, my "little" 280/4 APO is probably still the sharpest of the bunch. Though, I like the contrast from the 280/2.8 Modular a bit better (it has deeper, dark contrast in the shadow areas). Of course the downside to the Modular kit is... size...

It took all of 3 shots for things to go sideways with the Leica M11 after a full reset (multiple times)... I've gone back to storing images to internal memory and not putting memory cards in the cameras.

Cameras reset, etc... we'll see what happens. Curiously, after resetting the M11 multiple times, it refuses to roll back to folder "100LEICA". It keeps advancing by +1 each time I reset the camera (and yes, I'm selling the option to reset the numbering). Whereas the M11-M rolled all the way back 100LEICA. Probably the internal storage retaining a counter (that it should not after a camera + counter reset).

By bifurcation, do you mean two APS-C sensors by joined to form one full frame sensor (ie - 18x24 + 18x24 = 36x24)? If so, I don't think that's how the M10-M or M11's sensors are produced. I routinely use dark red filters & polarizers, and with the subsequent edits, the files are purchased very hard. If these center were produced that way, those extreme contrast setting would very likely exasperate / provoke any such centerfold issues. I've never seen any hint (1000s and 1000s and 1000s of images) of two sensor halves being stitched to form a full-frame sensor on the M10-M or M11-M. I'm familiar with this issue, more commonly referred to as 'centerfold'. Alot of CCD digital backs were made this way, such as the CCD's from Dalsa. I saw it on the Leica S-006 and the Phase One P65+. My point being, I have know what to look for it because fixing it can be really difficult to fix in post.

@SJH To make sure I'm understanding what you wrote, you're suggesting a full camera reset, we set-up our cameras as we like, and do NOT import any previous user profiles? I have a M11 and M11-M and have experienced cards issues on both since firmware 2.0.2. I did set-up a user profile once on one of them (can't remember which one). My roundabout point being, I'm not sure user profiles are the root issue here. Regardless, doing a full reset and reconfiguring the camera is easy enough to do. I'll give that a go and see how things go for a week or two.

I shoot DNG only, so I don't think JPEG is the issue.

The firmware 2.0.2 release notes include these two warnings... It is reasonable to assume there is some correlation with the memory card issues some of us are experiencing and Leica's warnings. What it's worrisome is that in my case the issue did not happen on the first shot, but after using the camera for awhile and an afternoon's worth of shots were lost. So no more SD cards for me until Leica releases a firmware update fixing this.

All cards were formatted in SD Formatter (overwrite). I do this every time before using a card.

Same problem with M11 and M11-M with Sandisk 32 GB cards since firmware 2.0.2. Never had memory card issues before with the M11's, so pretty sure this is 2.0.2 related. As a workaround I am using the M11 internal memory and then the MacOS' image utility to copy images from the Leica M11 internal memory onto the Mac (M's are set to PTP mode).

The 50/1.4 ASPH "II" has very poor off center performance at 1.4.

Because it is sharp at the center at F1.4, has good off-center sharpness at F1.4, and very smooth bokeh. Ergonomically, they are small with a built-in hood. Financially, cheap as chips these days. The 50/1.2 re-issue had a nice draw / rendering at F2.8, but it seemed (to me) a very expensive way to shoot F2.8. F2 had a sharp(ish) center. F1.2 was really just more of "look". Nothing was critically sharp, just some area was kind-of, sort-of, maybe more focused.