I was actually in touch with Peter yesterday from CRR in Luton. Ill outline the gist of what he said so it might help people later with the same problem. He gave me alot of his time and was extremely helpful. He said its extremely difficult to diagnose and rectify, and running film through the camera is really the only way to check if a leak has been remedied. It could be a possible processing problem M6's are not known for light leaks (unless camera has been dropped and base or top has been distorted) Shutter brakes produce definitive line always, normally, on the left hand side of the film plane. All M cameras can suffer from this but it doesnt bleed in to the sprocket hole area The M6 has teflon washers in the brake mechanism which extends the service life of the brake. (M1, 2, 3, 4, 5 have a graphite block which needs attention after 20 years, M6's unless heavily used tend not to exhibit the problem “but they are getting older”) To test: Open the back plate, wind and fire the shutter and point to a bright sky or CRT type tv. At 1/1000th of a second. If problem, it would be relatively easy to spot, by observing the left hand side of the 35 x 24 film aperature, a verticle brighter band of light about 2-3mm wide can be seen if there is shutter bounce The M6s can get burn holes in the first curtain (white spot) when metering into the sun, but they are easily noticed Check rubberised seal at the rear door hinge. The door can be removed by moving the screwhead sideways to the right, its in the top left corner, and works like a garden gate bolt. The seal is a strip of curtain material running the length of the back door. It shouldnt be kinded or worn.