stevebuk

Not sure where you are? I sold mine to mpb, in similar condition for £1400. Could probably have got £1700 private but didn’t want any potential issues coming back to me as the camera is quite old.

Thanks, I'd have thought it was menu to back out, but menu cycles through the options. Anyway, seems the answer if half press the shutter. Not seen that before. Thank you all for taking the time to respond.

Hi all, I've picked up an as new Q typ 116, and am finding myself around it. Quite a lot of changes to the manual during the firmware journey it seems! As such I have a few basic questions I could not figure out. 1) During manual focus, I like the magnified view and peaking. So I start to focus and it magnifies, all good. I then am happy but have to wait for the screen to unmagnify. It says in the manual to press the thumb button to exit, but this does nothing on first press and then cycles the 50mm / 75mm frames it is set to. How do I exit magnified view? 2) When in the menus, I can't find a way out other then half press the shutter? Is it not possible via button to exit the menu back to the photo screen on the LCD? 3) In auto ISO, I can set the minimum shutter speed, but it also has an "auto" for min shutter speed. What speed is that please? 4) When using the single spot focus and the touch screen, is it not possible to also use the 4 way controller? Seems I either choose the controller or touch screen, not both. i.e. touch the screen and then adjust with the controller to fine tune. 5) Focus spot size. Is there a consensus on which size is generally fastest / most accurate for general use? Thank you very much in advance.

The M9. The "P" is going to give you sapphire display covering. The display is still awful. You'd be paying the best part of £1000 for the same camera. It's identical bar a few cosmetics. The 9 is the one.

You can also buy them direct from the acmax website with free international shipping. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The new one has arrived and focus is now fine. Thanks all! Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Thanks for all the responses, all very valid. However, it still seems the indicators are linked to base ISO and do not always show anything of value. (Sometimes they do, but it would be better if they did nothing when the exposure could be fine as otherwise you are never sure if to trust them or not).

Thanks all. I still think I've not made myself very clear though! I appreciate the overexposure possibility outside, but indoor, if I choose 125, f2 for instance, and assume that to do so would require an ISO above base but within my max range, I would not expect any exposure warning triangles as the exposure IS achievable at the settings I chose if the camera ups the ISO. But the camera, in this situation suggests I need to increase the exposure. If I do so, it is also a fine exposure but at base ISO. The problem is that if I get the warning, even if it can work by using the ISO within my limit, how would I know if it was not achievable and really no ISO headroom existed? I'd only expect the exposure warning in this case. Does this make more sense or am I missing something? Regards, Steve

Thanks Jim, that helps a lot. So my thoughts on a base ISO link seem correct. It seems they are not too clear, because if I am using 125sec, f2 indoor, the light may well indicate I need to reduce shutter speed for the correct exposure. I may choose to ignore this as I may be happy with a higher ISO. But in this case I'm not really sure if my max ISO of 800 will be enough and as such if the exposure I want can be taken correctly. I am correct to assume the camera doesn't notify my of this situation? It seems I have to take the shot to check as I may not need to reduce as the indicator may be talking about base ISO out of range and not max? Hope I've not muddied this further!

Thanks, I appreciate what they are for, but don't see why they are visible in manual with auto iso. What I mean is that if I choose f2 125th sec with auto iso on, I'd expect it to try to use that setting at the lowest achievable iso. So ideally 160 and if not enough light, it would increase iso until it hit my max. I'd understand a warning if it needed above max, but don't understand why I get the triangles when it can achieve that setting at an iso below my max. By definition that is a proper exposure, so doesn't need the triangles. I've done a non scientific test this evening and think that when using auto iso, the triangles are somehow linked to base iso. Basically if I followed the triangles and adjusted speed to get the dot, it always took the shot at base iso. If I dropped the light in the room to a point that I needed a slower shutter speed or higher iso, the arrows showed up. If I ignored them and took the shot, the result was good, but the iso moved up as expected. Not sure if this is any clearer? Thanks, Steve Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Hi all, Sorry if this a daft question, but I am struggling to see the relevance of the exposure dots and triangles when in manual mode with auto iso. I have no issue with them and how they work generally, but with auto-iso it often tells me I need to increase / decrease exposure, but why? If I just ignore it, it works fine and bumps the ISO to where it needs to be. Do they relate to base iSO or am I missing something? Many thanks Steve

Thanks all. The good news is I have been able to return the lens and they are shipping me a newer replacement. Fingers crossed that lens is an improvement. I'll let you know when it arrives.

Hi all, I recently purchased a used Zeiss 50 f2 to supplement my 35 Summarit. However, I've been struggling to get sharp images, wide open, close up. I've determined that it's not my lack of experience with the rangefinder, but it seems to focus a few cms in front of where I focus. I've researched and see mention of a few issues with the sonnar but generally people talk of very sharp images from the planar. The only reference I noted was someone mentioning that some of the older lenses were configured for film not digital and it might need calibrating? I've worked out if I just twist the focus a hair further, I can often achieve good focus and assume I would need to do this for every aperture, but I guess as it gets narrower, the dof will start to mask the issue. I can try to return the lens but I've had it a few weeks and am not sure I'll be able. I was hoping to use the lens wide open quite often, but it seems too much like guesswork for important images. Has anyone seen this before? Thanks Steve