FrankX

Horrible experience! I am photographing weddings, too. So I can feel with you. However, did you really use only a single card? Or were there no files on the sd card either?

First, just to clarify: To my best knowledge both Fuji cameras are using a hybrid contrast/phase AF system! That’s the main reason for their superior performance in dark environments. Second, the Q2 lens and sensor are well optimized by Leica. The lens is probably also sharper and transfers a more contrasty image to the sensor. That may be the reasons why it works more reliable than the SL2-S with the Sigma. Third, all my Sigma lenses are not the best regarding AF performance, especially in low light. LUMIX lenses are way better than Sigma lenses. My SL2 feels like a different camera using LUMIX lenses… Thus, I don’t think there is something wrong with your equipment.

I know from my Godox X-Pro for Fuji that my Fuji cameras automatically switch to TTL mode (using a pre-flash to meter) even when the trigger is set to manual. This slows down frames per second considerably! Fortunately, this effect can be avoided by using the camera's TTL-lock feature as a workaround (still annoying). Probably, we observe the same effect here with the Leica SL2?! @Harpomatic However, my expectations were that it works at least with the original SF60 flash in non-TTL modes, e. g. manual mode. I think you mentioned it does not work quicker with Leica SF60 even in manual mode in another thread. Right?! 😏

That's really surprising. I hope someone here can solve this problem. I am currently thinking about the same flash setup (coming from Fuji). Thus I would appreciate any comments.

Ich finde das Objektiv sehr interessant, bin aber vom AFC der Sigma Art Objektive bisher eher enttäuscht (Leica SL2). Optisch finde ich sie dagegen alle sehr gut. Aktuell habe ich das Panasonic 50 1.8. Die SL2 fühlt sich damit an wie eine ganz andere Kamera (AFC ohne stark sichtbares Pumpen im EVF). Kann jemand etwas zum AFC des neuen Sigma 50 1.4 an der Leica SL2 oder einer anderen Kamera mit reinem Kontrast-AF sagen? Wirkt sich der HLA AF-Motor so aus, dass das Verhalten mit dem Panasonic 50 1.8 vergleichbar ist?

Oder einfach kalibrierte Kamera-Basisprofile kaufen… Gibt es z. B. bei dvlop.com!

I switched from M10 to M11 last year and never regretted it. From my point of view the M11 offers a lot of unique selling points: - Battery life is awesome compared to M10. USB-C charging comes in handy. - The sensor of the M11 is state of the art regarding dynamic range, iso noise levels and resolution even in 2023. M10 sensor wasn't even in 2017. - I like the new, intelligent metering modes. The electronic shutter is another plus shooting wide open in bright light (however, it is a bit slow...). - Camera operation using the EVF is way more fluent (like a usual mirrorless camera). The EVF itself is in another league (but not at SL2 level). - The new in-camera storage means for me, that I am finally using it at weddings. Personally, never would do it with only a single card with the M10! - User interface is more in line with my SL2. Unfortunately, FW is still a little bit buggy. However, it does not really annoy me so far. Used it for more than 8 months now and it had max. 2-3 freezes. Can't remember the last one...

Did you use the self timer? In that case, the camera focuses only once when you press the shutter button. Solution: Use interval timer + AFc + Eye-AF! Works great! Best, Frank

As long as you are not shooting a wedding... 😉 Frankly speaking, I was a bit nervous shooting the 'first kiss' during a wedding ceremony with my M11 this year. P.S.: Had about 2-3 freezes in 8 months using an old Sandisk UHS-1 64 MB card. BTW, I don't really believe it is a card issue.

Yes, it is there indeed. Maybe you have to update your Fotos app?!

The AD200 is a 200 Ws flash. The SF60 output should be around 50-60 Ws. Thus, AD200 is roughly 3-4x more powerful. And it is possible to combine two AD200 as a single 400 Ws flash unit with a quite affordable flash head accessory!

HSS in manual mode, for example. And you have way more power and shorter recycle times with most of the flashes mentioned by Photoworks.

Kann ich nachvollziehen. Was mich allerdings wundert: Arbeitest du in solchen Situation dann wirklich mit einem Remote Trigger oder ist das nur eine Behelfslösung? Hast du den Blitz dann in der einen Hand und die Kamera in der anderen? Was mit wirklich für Hochzeiten fehlt, ist so etwas wie ein Godox V1 L mit TTL (und am besten HSS). Auf einem Stativ befestige ich den Blitz bzw. die Blitze erst am späten Abend, z. B. um die Tanzfläche auszuleuchten. Dann wähle ich aber in der Regel manuell einen festen Wert für die Blitzleistung.

Until today, I never tested it in the way described by Keith since my feeling is that the battery life using the M11 is way better than that of my SL2 (which is significantly better than my Fuji X-T3, btw). Thus, inspired by Keith's comments I just tested it. With power management off and live view / display off, the battery was going down from 90% to 75% in about 70 min. That would give something like 4 x 70 min = 4 h 40 min for the battery going from 70% to 10%! Thus, Keith's value of about 4 hours seems to be reasonable and in the normal range! It is definitely not indicating a defect. I see it in a different way: When I am photographing a wedding for 8-10 hours (about 1500 images), I most probably only need two batteries which is fantastic compared to other mirrorless cameras and my former M10 (even assuming power management off and camera always on!). Taking pictures is not consuming that much energy, especially with the M11, as already mentioned above, e. g. by Jono.

I observed this strange shutter sound sometimes using iAF independent of the firmware version.