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indergaard

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About indergaard

  • Birthday 01/02/1979

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  • Member Title
    Photographer
  • Gender
    Male / Männlich
  • Location
    Norway
  • Country
    Norge

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  1. You dont need a case for airline travel. You can simply use a small piece of electrical tape to cover the contacts.
  2. I have never used a battery holder in my entire life. Honestly, unless you throw your batteries in a bag full of small metal parts or particles, there is absolutely no need for a battery holder or pouch.
  3. The latest Nikon Z lenses has all been phenomenal, especially in regards being almost completely free of CA. The Noctilux ASPH is horrible in this regard. It's CA performance is extremely poor. Then again, both lenses are too big and heavy for what they are if you ask me. But I'm sure the Noct will be optically far better than the Noctilux ASPH.
  4. Well, I find the square shape of the X-Pro series makes it feel and look a lot bigger and boxier. The rounded shape of the M cameras make them appear far slimmer, smaller and smoother by comparison. I don't have an X-Pro any more, so I can only go on what I remember.
  5. If features is what you want from a camera then the Leica M is the wrong camera to pick in the first place. I always found the Fuji X-T cameras the more sane version of what the X-Pro series always tries to be (jack of all trades, master of none.. rangefinder, hybrid rangefinder, EVF, zooms, primes, and all sorts of bells and whistles).
  6. 500k is definitely not a common rating. It is the rating in the latest Sony mirrorless cameras, yes, and it is a rating based on multiple factors, for example, always using EFCS. The more sane and "normal" ratings are typically between 150k-200k, and I expect the same from the M10/-P shutters. I've sent many Leicas in for servicing, but it has never been because the shutter has died... Other problems usually show up way before that.
  7. You think the M11 should be bigger, thicker, boxier, have a lot more plasticky buttons, a worse viewfinder, a gimmicky film simulation (JPEG setting) screen, and have a crop sensor? Ok... I purchased the X-Pro1 at launch day. I did the same with the X-Pro2. And I've owned them side-by-side with the M9, MMv1, M240, M10 and M10-P, and, uh, there is no comparison. Especially when you slap a good lens on any of the M bodies. You can't get away from Fuji's sterile and digital look (by comparison). For the X-Pro3 to be remotely interesting it would need to be smaller and more streamlined than the M10. It is not. The Fuji is significantly larger and boxier, and has a smaller sensor, and a comparable battery. None of these Fuji's has ever been or will ever be a direct competitor to a true rangefinder camera anyway, so a direct comparison will always be flawed.
  8. I spent an entire year with the original M Monochrom and a Summilux 50 ASPH. That, and my cell phone (iPhone at the time I believe) was the only cameras I had. It was a great learning experience. Not much has changed, the only gear I have now is the M10-P and an APO50 and Cron 35 ASPH v1, with the APO seeing about 90% of the use. The rest of my gear is now sold. But I am considering selling the Cron 35 and getting a Cron 28 and a Summarit 90mm 2.4, and thus end up on the classic 28/50/90 setup with fairly light-weight and compact high-performing lenses.
  9. They don't offer fast enough sensor read-out speeds. You will get rolling shutter (bent golfclubs, poles, and anything and everything that moves quickly will be deformed). A secondary trait thanks to the slow read-out speed is also the sensitivity to severe banding under artificial light. The only camera that pulls off the "electronic shutter" is the Sony A9. In most other cameras the use-case for the electronic shutter is very limited, borderline gimmicky. The A9 is a cracking camera that I wouldn't consider. I'd rather use the M10-P which offers nearly the same effect but without the bad side-effects of an electronic shutter with a slow read-out speed.
  10. I tried the UpStrap. Agreed, their rubber is sticky. So sticky that you can never sling the camera around your shoulder without your shirt, jacket, or sweater being slung and dragged all over the place too.. The UpStrap is one of the most awkward and annoying straps I have ever tried.
  11. The Nocti 0.95 ASPH is only tricky to use if the lens or camera isn’t properly calibrated. But it is heavy! It weighs almost as much as a Canon EF 24-70mm f/2.8 L II, to put it into perspective.
  12. Haptic feedback or some sort of short vibration in the camera at the end of the exposure would indeed be great. And no shutter curtain what so ever.
  13. Imagine if it didn't have any shutter sound at all. It would be amazing wouldn't it? Oh wait, the Sony A9 already has been doing that for nearly two years.
  14. I compared them directly for a few weeks on the same camera, my findings are: V2 is noticeably larger with the metal hood. It's just as "long" as the Summilux 35 ASPH FLE with the hood attached on camera. My V1 was actually slightly sharper at infinity than the V2 I tested. V2 was slightly sharper in the extreme corners than the V1. V1 had slightly warmer colors and more contrast and a more yellow/warm bias, V2 had slightly cooler colors with a more magenta bias with less contrast. V1 and V2 both had minimal focus shift at f/2.8-f/4.0 at certain distances. V1 tends to throw everything that is in front of the focus point more out of focus, whereas V2 seemed to offer more depth-of-field for whatever reason. V2 had very slightly smoother bokeh at certain distances with a busy background. More or less unnoticeable unless shot against a busy background or a background with a lot of specular highlights or "lines". I kept my v1 as the most important thing for me was the size. The v2 with the hood becomes the size of a Summilux 35, which defeats the purpose of using a smaller and lighter cron. Might as well use a Lux 35 FLE then. I also prefer the plastic hood for other reasons (lighter, easier to remove and re-attach, takes bumps and dings much better, doesn't block the viewfinder as much, etc).
  15. I went the opposite way. Traded my Noctilux 0.95 ASPH for a 35 Lux ASPH FLE and cash and then bought a Summilux 50 ASPH, and still had some cash left over. But I'm glad I scratched the Noctilux itch and got it out of my system. No reason to wonder anymore...
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