lct

Don't worry, it can happen to even the most experienced photographers 😉 Welcome to the forum BTW 🙂 https://pin.it/AAWhh7YZM

+1 The Rokkor 28/2.8 works fine with modern digital cameras too. Only issues are Schneideritis and 28mm framelines needing a mod of the flange to bring up. I've been fortunate enough to find a clean copy like that with 6-bit coding at a German dealer. IQ wise, it matches well Mandler lenses from the eighties (35/2 v4, 50/2 v4), more so than earlier ones i feel. Couple of snaps with M11 and FPL below. Not bad that Sigma look is it but possibly too sharp for the OP. EDIT: i should say the Sigma + LCT look as i sharpened a bit more the Sigma shot in PP. https://photos.smugmug.com/Diverse/n-QFBj4/Leica-M11-Rokkor-2828/i-7HbWJsp/0/CGrhNTvxjsnvS734kRSZ7jHLpw3Qv3B88f6rCJqHX/X4/M1004048_sips-X4.jpg https://photos.smugmug.com/Diverse/n-QFBj4/Sigma-FPL-Rokkor-2828/i-bnNDFHC/0/qw2FmddWcMbtNz6k7GSpFQ8tdn68NBSwNKDXZrGK/X4/SDIM0169_sips-X4.jpg

Oops sorrry. Senior moment... I have no experience with the Elmarit 28/2.8 v2 anyway. My favorite from the same era is the Rokkor 28/2.8.

Silver M11 because it does not freeze 😄 but also for the same reason as my M3, M4, M6J, M8.2 and M240. I don't like chameleon cameras 😉. Only exception explaining the reason, my black anodized M4-2 is not black any more but grey... after 40 years ...

I have no experience with the Q2 but it is not a camera with interchangeable lenses so i'm not sure how to compare it with any L-mount or M-mount body.

I'm not good at comparing different focal lengths but as far as my lenses are concerned, the 90/2.8 v2 has less vignetting and less color fringing than the S-A 21/3.4. But the former's IQ is indeed less "modern" than the 90/2.8 v4's w/o being soft, except at f/2.8 on corners where v2 is outperformed by v4. At f/4 and on, my v2 copy is very sharp, with less acutance than v4 i believe but i would have to do side by side comparos to be sure as the last time i used my v2 was a couple years ago... Happy snaps 🙂

Depends how many isos you need. Up to 3200 ok but better not to push exposure in PP to avoid banding at 6400 ico and above. Great camera otherwise, only cons a sluggish EVF and color shifts at edges and corners with WA lenses like S-A 21/3.4, ZM 21/4.5 and VM 15/4.5 v2.

Summilux 35/1.4 v1 ("steel rim", E41 filters) up to serial # 2166700 (1966) and v2 (Series 7 filters) from 2166701 and above AFAIK, so yours must be a v2 i suspect.

My Summicron 50/2 v4's focus throw is rather short (pic), similar to the Summilux 50/1.4 asph v1's and a bit shorter than the Summicron 50/2 v5's.

Something must be escaping me in this thread. Why not hand-coding those lenses? There is a groove for this purpose on the flange of VM and ZM lenses. Late copies of them at least.

If it is the 14089 there are a couple of them on e**y

Since 16mm and 21mm are lacking in your list, the missing one could be the WATE. A lens with 0.5m MFD that works fine on both my Leica (M240, M11, CL) and non Leica (Sony A7r2 mod, Sigma FPL) bodies.

Depends on the 21 prime. Assuming it is the SEM, i would say If you need f/3.4 yes, if you need compactness yes, if you need 0.5m MFD no, if you need sharp corners on any camera no.

I've been using less than 20mp cameras for several years (Digilux1, R-D1, D70, M8.2) and i still use a 24mp as backup for my M11 (M240) but i was just being realistic, or trying to be so. I simply believe that very few people, if any, would pay Leica prices for a low res camera nowadays.. but it's me😎

Not sure how low res cameras could sell at Leica prices now that 61mp's can be had for a fraction of them (Leica M10 & Sigma FPL).