KAD

My fell off as well Did not found it in the bag, and Leica wanted the camera back to attach a new one.... not acceptable, so I got a new M10 from Leica thanks to the dealer

I use a MP 0.72 and and M3. The bigger magnification give some benefit, but you easaly fix that with a magnifier. Incicident meter is very good, and I use it with my M3. Just be aware that you need to learn that as well, and it will slow your shooting down. The meeter in the MP is very good, but as all reflective meters you need to think when using it. Both MA and MP will for sure be a good choice.

I have used Alan on both camera and lens work. Highly recommend his work! Make sure you ship per his recommandation and not you local post service, as it will get stuck in UK customs. Alan did a repaint of my M3 with Cron. It has a finish spesified by me... https://flic.kr/s/aHskU4wnHQ

It cost £608 including repaint, CLA and new leather. That was also including shipping, but not import taxes. I leave in Norway so for me that is an additional 25%. Given the work and result I think the price is very good

Just got my M3 back from service with Alan Starkie in UK. This was a chrome originally, but I had it repainted. It was also threated in a Kravitz ++ style I know some purist will be turned off now, but I like it! This is my daily go-to camera, and I wanted a look I like with no need to worry about ruining any new finish

On the color setting tab, try to set to generic color for film. Set the adjustment on top to manual, and make sure you have all adjustments set to lowest value, except til exposure off course.... that should be 1. Set output to tiff or jpg. Raw cam be nice but it mess up your head since your adjustment are not shiwn in output file. When preview is done, check for higlight that is blown, and adjust highlight and/or shadow limits on the exposure graph in the bottom som that they are just outside clipping. I have tried several solutions, but for 95% of the time this is my workflow. Choose a film type and Vuescan mess with your file. Could help you on bad exposures, but normally you can do better in post.Hope this helps!

I have used CP for C41 previusly, but did after some time find the same issue with highlights. They burn out easily, and if try to recover they look plain ugly, and to be honest where digital. Today I scan as tiff or jpeg, and adjust in LR or C1 afterwards.

Very nice series of photos! One of the best I have seen to be honest! I love the deep black in your pictures. Even thogh I live halg way round the world from this place, I really hot the feeling of how it is. Thanks!

My first MP just arrived. Used one with some brassing already, but I guess I do not need to worry about some new signs of use. Bougt a 50 Lux v2 to go with it. Very pleased with the combo so far!

By the way if this is bright daylight you might be 1,5-2 stop overexposing. That will give you a more dence negative, and some scanner struggle with that. Results are more grain/noise.

I have just finished of my first roll of RPX 100 this weekend. I agree with 250swb, that this is more of a scanner issue. What you see is not grain alone as such, but "artifacts" that you get from sharpening a scan. I find that you might also run into this if you scan to a raw file or a tiff, and use the wrong software to edit. As example as I use Capture One (very good raw converter) for digital raw files, but it make a "mess" out of .dng or tiff from Vuescan. Anyway... this is one of the pictures from the film with a crop. This is a 3600 dpi scan saved as jpg. The film is developed in Xtol for 10 min (1:1mix). Camera was Leica MP with 50Lux

Just finished putting on new leather on my two M3's Both had vulcanite that was a bit broken.

Sorry about your camera, but beautiful picture!! Could you tell some more aboit settings used? I have not seen many pictures of northern light of that quality!!

I think more or less all is tried now... film is out (and developed). Tried all settings and self timer. Nothing makes it move. I have talked to one in Norway that have repaired M3 with this failure, and he claim it could happen if you try to advance to soon after you press the shutter button. Also talked to the guyes at Kamera Service in Netherland and they say it most likely are some small filt that block the light that has come loose and ended up in the mechanismen, causing a stop. I will most likely have both my M3 sent of for CLA. This one is CLA'd only a few years back so it was not planned. The other is in need for some CLA, so I guess they can keep eachother company

Unfortunately it is not the film. I have rewind it already, and nothing helps. I was on frame 21 of 36 when it happened.