MT710

yes, testament to scanner physics, meaning light source and optics. I have an optically identical LS-50 and see the same for every scratch or mark on the negative, compared to the less sensitive. dark room. For me, it is an incentive to produce very clean negatives and a compliment to what Nikon could engineer and manufacture. Scanning however is more of a spin-off for me, relevant output is done in the darkroom. (Side note, not to the extend, but the same happens with a Plustek and 6x6 negatives) You may want to get a factor 10x loupe and check, where the scratches come from, is this from the camera pressure plate or else? Hope this helps.

I struggled a lot with my MM1 files in LR (also using Silver Efex Pro) and by a rather random event I figured out Aperture runs on High Sierra. The OOC imports are quite decent, for me to an extent I have given up LR entirely. I realize this is out of maintenance software, yet since I only have the MM as digital camera, don't care that much. Since presentation on screen is difficult in the forum, I spare any examples, but if you still have Aperture somewhere and some free hours, give it a try.

Rolleiflex GX, Rolleinar 1, TriX @ISO400 in Paranol

These are rather deep scratches, at least looks like. Given the position of the scratches, follow the way of the film through the camera, I once had a problem with a tiny piece of the metal of the body touching the film before the film is wound up on the spool. Removed, done. Use some strong light and a Q-tip to move around places (make sure any remains of the Q-tip don't stay). If two films were fine and the third one is troubled, it to me rather points to the film (canister). Leave a few frames unexposed with the next roll and see whether these are good - if the film is scratched but not the undeveloped part, you are again a bit closer. Also, some films are more sensitive to scratching than others. As said before - some more digging. Changing a back plate is a small thing, find a Leica dealer to advise. Sending it off for searching may lead to "could not find anything", so rather try to find out more. Good luck.

Sehr schön in Licht und Schatten gesetzt

Ich hatte meines vor einer Weile beim Service und habe mir den Hinweis geholt, das es nicht perfekt zu reinigen sei (Rückstände verbleiben). Das finde ich etwas akribisch, ich habe nicht den Eindruck die marginalen Reste beeinträchtigen die Leistung, es ist etwas weniger kontrastreich als neuere Rechnungen, das muß aber nichts Schlechtes sein. Ich verkaufe es trotzdem, da ich eine Blende mehr haben möchte und das 90er eher selten mitnehme, daher weniger von dem geringen Gewicht und der lächerlichen Größe profitiere. Gruß Michael

Westportal, Kölner Dom. Gruß Michael

Wäre bei einer Wiederholung gerne dabei, morgen klappt's nicht, viel Spaß Gruß Michael

Hockenheim Classics, Horex von ca. 1930, mit M8.2, Summaron. Gruß Michael

Found this thread rather accidentially, went there this year - really a great event and lots of opportunities to take photos. Regards Michael

Let me chime in, maybe of help For 35mm I have a Nikon Coolscan (LS-50) as the main scanner and a Reflecta 7200 (now I'd but the 10T) as a back-up. I felt spending that money on lenses I would not want to compromise too much on the scanner and I read about everything I could find on the scanner tests, started with www.filmscanner.info/en) and it appeared a dedicated 35 was the way to go. Flat film is probably the main factor, the Hasselblads were way out of what I wanted to spend. I have had my Nikon for two years, they seem to not go down in price, but could fail, that's a risk with 10 year old gear. Subjectively, the Reflecta is somewhat inferior, I read good things about the 10T. The Nikon scans look coarse in LR, but then the prints are not bad: I run both on Vuescan and the results are good enough for me for 20x30 cm prints, and 30x45 should also work, mind 4000dpi, so this is not far away from a 18MP file and the rendering/tonal range of a Silvermax or FP or TX I like. In terms of process - the Coolscan processes strips of 6, I do that in parallel to other stuff, takes an hour per film. The Reflecta requires frame by frame advance, also one hour but more involved. I run to about 100 films/year, it is not the fun part of the analogue experience. For a lot of money you get the full film holder for the Nikon, there is also a very old "Pakon" or so scanner, but this requires old HW. If you want to avoid the failure risk and you can accomodate for the process, get a 10T, if you don't like it, resell it, limited damage done. You could also ask some labs to scan the same strip to see what comes back before you decide. My 2 cent. Regards Michael

Hallo Gregor, danke für das Feedback, ich habe hier etwas weggeschnitten (26% um genau zu sein), versuche ich sonst zu vermeiden, aber bei dem Bild hast Du wirklich einen Punkt. Gruß Michael

Der Herr mit der Werkzeugkiste auf dem Weg zur Glasausstellung war mir aufgefallen,,, M8,2, CV 2.5/35, M8RAW2DNG

Diese Kombination kenne ich nicht, hatte aber mal das gleiche Ergebnis mit einem RPX100 und da lief meine Schlußfolgerung auf das Stopbad hinaus (Adostop), ohne diese gab es deutlich weniger Pünktchen. Es erschien mir, als würde die Emulsion durch das Stopbad angegriffen. Gruß Michael

Fokus versemmelt MP, 50mm Summicron, RPX25 in Acurol-N