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I should have read the thread more carefully. Thanks for the link. I did download capture one last weekend, could not get it to work (tethering). I could see live view but could not operate the shutter. However I’ll admit my effort was half hearted as I’m pretty ensconced in Lightroom. At this point C1 would have to be life changing for me to switch.

Donald, I’ve recently been digitizing with my 601, I use the Fotos iPad app for remote shutter release but other than that it’s worthless. I believe the image shuttle app is not available any more even for Mac. Does it allow you to focus via live view on the large screen? I’ve been either looking through the led with magnifying glass or connecting a monitor via HDMI (which only works if I switch to video mode). I’m following this topic because I’m interested in the SL3 for numerous reasons, but one is tethering for digitization and macro. Can you go into more detail regarding your workflow with the 601? Macro is easy as I just get it close, move the focus rail, and shoot. Stack with Zerine. For digitizing I find it a challenge to get focus sharp before stopping down.

I just took the temperature of some distilled water stored next to my chemicals, 20c. So, fine if I’m developing there. But if I’m developing at 24c, what is the effect of stopping and fixing at 20c? Or increasing the stop and fix time a few percent to compensate? Or increasing stop and fix time because I’ve used those chemicals 6 or 8 times previously?

Thank you Adan, exactly what I was looking for. With developer I can get the temperature just right. But stop/fix are pre-mixed and consequently are the temperature of wherever they're stored. Nice to know I can kind of ballpark things to take that into account rather than trying to be perfect. -K

I’m pretty new to home developing. I’ve been sticking to massive dev chart times. My question for you experts: Is the time for stop bath and fixing critical? Developing time and temp is critical as there is a chemical reaction that can go too far or not far enough. However, once something is stopped or fixed, it cannot be more stopped or more fixed. Can I be a bit sloppy with those steps wrt increasing time? Or can film be over stopped or over fixed? -K

I agree. I had to send a lens back multiple times in past, they eventually got it right. Even if you want to sell it, I’d have them fix it first.

This is interesting. RE: APO lenses, I have not noticed focus shift, this could be one reason. More important reason, I typically am not using dark color filters on occasions where I would use a wide aperture. Another important consideration: red and dark red filters have an unpleasant effect on Caucasian skin, making them unnaturally smooth. My preferred colors are yellow and orange, yellow used much more.

I've been pretty happy with the 90-280 but occasionally I use one of my M lenses to get better shutter speed and wider aperture. This was with the 50 Noctilux, focused on where I hoped the ball would go. I got lucky.

Some volleyball pics here: https://goo.gl/photos/cb9giAbf4bxd1vq58 You can search this forum for my writeup on shooting volleyball with this combo.. -K

steppenw0lf, thanks for the writeup. I'm encouraged by what I've experienced. I'm one who does not believe the SL with 2.0 firmware is quite as quick focusing as my Canon 1D MkIV, however, it's still very, very good. And I have only four days under my belt and improved in my keeper percentage each of those days. It will be several months until I have another chance to shoot volleyball (off season now) but at this time I believe that for me (a parent/enthusiast), it's good enough to sell my Canon gear. Perhaps in time I'll become as proficient with the SL as I am with the Canon. -K

Probably most between 90 and 120. In other venues I'm not so close to the court that it's a problem. And it really wasn't a problem here; the player closest to me is usually facing away from me so I'm almost never shooting them. The cases where I had problems are difficult to get even with an infinitely fast camera ;-) For instance, a hitter on the opposite side of the court from me with other players blocking my view of her or moving in front of her. I can't focus until she jumps and is enough exposed for me to see her. This all happens very quickly and they're moving and I'm rushed. My comment above was regarding players who are in (or close to) focus, so I know I hit the player with the focus point, but the ball has already been hit. So either there was a delay or I didn't press the shutter soon enough. I have gotten pretty good at this with the Canon and had a lower success rate with the SL. I did get better over the course of the weekend, but left with the feeling that the SL was ever so slightly slower than the Canon, at least on the first shot of a burst. -K

Thank you Haydenc, I was shooting AFc with the high speed drive mode. At first I set the camera to manual focus and set the back button to be in AFc mode. Later I just set to AFc auto focus and used the shutter button. My delay must have either been due to a slightly higher delay in the camera or my own poor timing due to unfamiliarity with this camera/lens combo. I won't completely discount the possibility that I botched the settings and did have AFs set, but I think that's unlikely. Thanks, -K

It doesn't bother me, actually I've never noticed. I only use the library view to skim thumbnails. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Last week I acquired a long awaited 90-280, just in time for my daughter's volleyball tournament. Special thanks to Josh at Leica Miami for shipping the lens directly to the hotel so that I would have it for the tournament. You can see some of the images here: https://goo.gl/photos/cb9giAbf4bxd1vq58 For comparison, you can view other volleyball photos take with my Canon 1D Mk IV (And some other stuff that you don't care about) here: https://plus.google.com/+KellyBurkhart My thoughts on the SL + the 90-280 as a sports camera, with a caveat: Volleyball is not like other sports, so don't take this as an endorsement or condemnation of the SL as a sport camera in general. In particular, there are no players running quickly at me or away from me so I can't evaluate continuous autofocus in that case. The first day I was not happy. I set the camera up as much as possible like the Canon: Focus Mode manual (using the rear joystick for autofocus). AF Field Size 1 point, AF Mode Dynamic (tracking). This didn't work as well as I hoped. Over the next few days as I became more acquainted with the camera/lens, I got better, finally settling on shutter button for focus, Focus Mode AFc, AF Mode Dynamic, AF Field Size single point. By the end of the tournament I was able to get a reasonable number of keepers. A few observations: - The 90-280 seems to be a bit longer than my Canon 70-200 (with a 1.3 crop camera), making it more difficult to shoot near players. If my math is right, they should be roughly equivalent, at the short end at least. (I'm going on memory here, I didn't shoot the Canon this tournament, so I may be mistaken) - My mobility was limited as the courts were crammed pretty tightly together. Most shots were taken right at the sideline, near the net. A few are from the back line, opposite my team. The longer reach was welcome here. - AF Field Size -- had better luck with single point than field. Too many times I'm trying to hit a player behind another player. Field wanted to lock onto the closest player. I always use single point on the Canon, so this is no different. - AF Mode - Tracking seemed cool and seemed to work pretty well, but messed up the focus point on the next exposure. I would raise the camera and find that the focus point is not where I intended it. What I would like is to be able to set the focus point and have tracking work while I hold the back button or shutter button down, then revert back to my set point when I release. - The Canon allows me to set a separate horizontal and vertical focus point. I really like that feature and hope Leica adds it. - If I continue to use this camera for sports, the vertical grip will be essential. - Focus with back button is problematic as I kept accidentally moving my focus point around. Difficult to not move the joystick laterally when pressing it. - You may notice in a few of the pictures the player I'm focused on has been partially obscured by a player running in front. The SL did a nice job not immediately jumping to the player in front. - Early on I got a lot of shots of hitters in their follow through, missing the moment. I believe the camera won't shoot until focus is established; I'm not able to aim, focus and shoot as quickly as with the Canon. I need to rest on a player a fraction of a second longer to allow focus to lock before shooting. Consequently I more often have to focus on a player and hope the ball comes that direction rather than just watching to see where the ball is going and quickly focusing on that player. - Again non-scientific observation, I seem to be able to crop more aggressively with the SL. 18 megapixels vs. 24 seems significant. (Most of the pictures linked were cropped somewhat to quite a lot). - Most shots are manual exposure, ISO 6400, 1/640, f/4.0. Some were on courts with better light so I was able to switch to ISO 3200. I should have increased shutter speed rather than decreasing ISO. ISO 6400 is fine for me. - I was worried about the Canon f/2.8 vs. the Leica F/4.0. I'm still a bit worried as 1/640 is slower than I'm use to shooting and some of the high school gyms I shoot in have pretty poor lighting. - Some of the pictures are more noisy than others. The lights flickered at a high frequency so some shots were properly exposed, some underexposed. So I had to push the exposure in post for some. I believe I can conclude that for a professional sport shooter, the SL is not a replacement for a Canon 1D (or Nikon equivalent). For me (a parent, enthusiast) I have not yet determined if I can sell my Canon and 70-200; more practice required. I hope this is useful to some of you, -Kelly

I received mine last Thursday.