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Chuck68

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Profile Information

  • Member Title
    Neuer Benutzer
  • Gender
    Male / Männlich
  • Location
    Japan
  • Country
    empty/leer

Converted

  • City
    Tokyo
  • Your Leica Products / Deine Leica Produkte
    Leica M240
  1. Hi, just wondering if anyone is updating the wiki, it seems to be missing info about the latest cameras etc. thanks stu
  2. I have the same problem regarding rhe shutter button, before that it was the wheel on the back which was fixed under warrenty.
  3. I made the move from ME to M240 last month, happy that I did on the whole. The good The M240 feels like a much more finished and modern camera Live view is great It has a better shutter sound, does sound like a clockwork device Screen is much better The Bad It feels fatter and heavier While photo quality is technically improved, in some way it has lost character and photos look a little more generic than those from M9 I am happy with the upgrade
  4. Have a look at the a7II with 35mm 2.8 attached, they are really nice, played with one at the dealer, completely differentf feel and build quality than the first version
  5. Thank you for this morning giggle, total bs from practical perspective, the only reason to ship by ground is cost, we ship a lot of electronic equipment by air, otherwise the lead times would kill us Apple feels the same, otherwise you would get to wait several months for your shiny new iphone Why Apple Sends All iPhones And iPads By Air: It's Cheaper - Forbes
  6. I assume you have Gigibit Ethernet, if not get that for the nas, I suspect you are copying multiple small files which is why it is so slow. On my mac I sometimes make disk image to hold my older files, transferring a single large file should be much faster. A zip archive also works for this For raw speed an external usb3 disk offers best price/performance, you need a usb3 port on your pc/mac though In my case I also have the lightroom folder inside my dropbox folder, which seems to work quite well, dropbox pricing has come down in the last month so it is cost effective to do this. Dropbox also offers a photo viewer for jogs Couple of caveats, it can get slows syncing thousands of files the first time so add your files gradually, but once upto date it only copies any changes/additions. I would always keep a second backup and not Rey on dropbox exclusively I also use crashplan successfully, So to summarize 1) disk images to nas 2) file level backup to usb3 3) offsite backup to crashplan and or dropbox Cheers S
  7. Thanks to all, where I am a used M9-P is about 15% more expensive than a used M at the moment which is what prompted the question, maybe better to just buy an M instead S
  8. Dear All, Is it possible to upgrade the ME to M9-P via the upgrade plan. I assume top and bottom plates are the same, getting a bit sea sick with the green and want some chrome like my old M8 Thanks S
  9. Hi, The banding is not a function of the card, it is the camera that is creating the banding. The card is just a repository for digital data, it is the camera that is creating that data, banding and all. Fwiw fast cards don't make a difference in speed, the camera CPU/bus is the limiting factor. I am also a panasonic gold user. Cheers S
  10. Microsoft will only support Windows XP until April 2014, after then no more security updates, so do yourself a favour and upgrade. Support is ending for Windows XP - Microsoft Windows
  11. There is no difference in quality doing the "Copy as DNG" on import. The compression is lossless. Lossy compression is available elsewhere in the program, from the export dialog for example. "Copy as DNG" will update DNG version and metadata is updated and various fields changed from what was originally provided by the camera. This may lead to compatibility problems with other applications in certain cases. This seems to be camera model dependant, my M8 has no problems, my X2 has problems. So on the whole, probably better to "Copy" rather than "Copy As DNG" unless saving space is a requirement, and keep the files in their "from camera" state, Hope that helps, S
  12. Thank you for your responses, I have the latest Adobe updates and the reset did not work because the file itself was rewritten on import, even though the out of camera was a (different format) DNG so there is nothing to reset. ( I should have made a copy of the original before import: silly me) I tried the Adobe Raw Converter which did not help, although I discovered I can read the new DNGs in Lightzone. Guess I will be more careful in the future and will be using Lightroom very conservatively. In my opinion, seems the DNG format is getting fractured with various applications supporting different versions and different specific cameras but no clear explanation of the differences or compatibility matrix. It seems to be more of a commercial play for influence on Adobes part rather than a real benefit for users. Just my 2 cents, thank you again for your suggestions. Cheers S
  13. Thanks, but unfortunately not a camera fault, rather a problem with the DNG format itself. I guess Adobe is adding some additional data that other programs don't know how to handle. There are other cameras that have the same problem, The thread Adobe Community: DNG files showing no thumbnails mac osx 10.8.2 is one example.
  14. I had my very own disaster with Lightroom V5 on Mac, never ever select "Copy As DNG" on import. The DNG files from my X2 are readable by most applications as is, after importing to Lightroom using "Copy As DNG", the file system no longer shows a preview icon, Aperture cannot read them, Preview cannot read them, Corel Aftershot Pro or Capture One cannot read them. It seems that Lightroom creates it own DNG format files unreadable by other applications. Frankly this by itself is enough to make me leave Lightroom, there should at least be some "Compatibility Mode" to prevent this from happening. You can also destroy an existing "good" file in the same way by right clicking->Metadata-> Update DNG Preview and Metadata. Seriously Adobe WTF? DNG has turned out to be more proprietary than *any* native raw file. PS Can anybody tell me how to recover the files so that they are readable by other applications. I can convert to TIF, that seems the only way EDIT: This seems to be camera dependant, I can still read my M8 files after this procedure although NOT my X2 files.
  15. This one from the Guardian Leica M-E - why it's worth the money Could do with a better title
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