convexferret

I'll add that an orange filter can also cause these issues. I've done tripod tests and found that even my more modern lenses can be slightly affected, although generally only wide-open and subtly. Yellow filters cause no visible shift that I can see, test or in real life. I'd suggest that anyone using stronger filters check to avoid surprises.

There absolutely is focus breathing in rangefinder lenses. In fact all lenses that do not have some sort of compensatory mechanism (floating elements or internal focussing) will display it. Leica M lenses are no different.

Given that the OP is using Apple Photos currently then Affinity Photo is an ideal solution. You can use Apple Photos as your DAM and then when you hit edit you'll find "Edit in Affinity Photo" in the ... menu. Works great. This is how I work now as I've moved away from too many unnecessary tools (others can argue).

Don't use Rodinal, it's a speed reducing developer and you'll find that your shadows have even less detail than you might expect with such an extreme push. Any developer will produce large grain at 12,800, just use what you normally use. Expect that everything below middle-grey will be black.

Ignoring the deliberate misunderstandings and apparent trolling by a moderator, you can do what I do on my M10 and Sony A7, neither of which have panoramic aspect ratio marks. In both cameras you can enable the grids, in the M10 case the 6x4 view. The result of this is that if you take the 2nd and 3rd row (of 4) then you get a 3:1 ratio image. I tend to like the XPAN format which is approx 2.7:1 and therefore only slightly looser than what I can compose for on the screen. I don't tend to do this on the M10 much because I prefer to use the rangefinder but on the Sony (or most other EVF cameras) you'll get the grid in the viewfinder. Great fun with a fairly wide lens. 24mm will get you the equivalent field of view of the XPAN 45mm.

The sticks get a lot of the dust, and usually it's enough, but now and again you'll need a wet clean to get the sticky stuff off.

As far as squeegees go I found a much better solution than fingers. Get a very clean microfibre cloth, of the type that you use to clean your lenses and use it to wipe down the film gently. If it's fairly dry then it'll leave the film without droplets (which cause the spots) and scratch free.

@newtoleica I politely suggest that you think again. Even without a lens attached a sensel at the edge of the sensor behind a large hole will receive more light hitting it at an extreme angle than a sensel in the middle of the sensor. It's just geometry.

The sensor is sitting behind a hole, a really big pinhole really. Sensels in the corner will get more light from extreme angles than those in the centre. It's the light from extreme angles that causes vignetting and colour shifts.

Do try resetting the camera. When I received mine it was clipping the blacks at a dark grey and nothing recorded darker than that. A reset get rid of that and it's been flawless for the 2.5 years since.

You'll want to select an exposure that works for the whole panorama, which usually means getting it right for the brightest part of the final image and bringing up shadows elsewhere afterwards if necessary. That requires that you plan the pano before you start but will ensure the best final image quality.

+1 for van Maanen (also sent from Spain). He's done a couple of CLAs for me, M and screw mount as well as lens re-lube.

Correction. The lack of a bayer array will give 1-2 stops better high ISO performance but has no effect on dynamic range. If you think about it it's obvious why.

The one for the M10

For those of you that keep losing the hotshoe cover when mounting the EVF, you do realise that the EVF shoe cover has a slot for the camera hotshoe cover?