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I Love My M6!


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Thanks, I've never seen one of those. Do they command a premium?

 

I bet, that's if they ever find their way onto the market.

 

 

I seem to recall that the edition wasn't received with any great enthusiasm at the time of release – the M7 was already out and was the object of most attention, and the edition seemed like a cynical exercise in getting rid of the remaining stock of parts – and the few examples I've seen for sale since then have, if I recall correctly, been in the sub-MP price range (for equivalent condition). Although they don't seem to pop up often I think they have been generally less popular (and cheaper) than the black paint LHSA and Millennium editions but I have no idea what they might fetch in today's market. The M6TTL (in all varieties) with its larger and 'wrong' direction shutter dial, 2mm taller body and reputation for finder flare, still seems less popular than the MP in it's various guises but there does seem to be a lack of good condition M6/M6TTL/MP cameras around recently so who knows what kind of premium a '999' might fetch. 

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Then the prices have really gone up. When I bought mine a used MP was about 40% more than the Millennium.

 

Actually an M6 Millennium is about the same price as a black paint MP in similar condition, with the LHSA about double, just from a quick glace at eBay. All of these are of course much more than a standard black chrome or silver chrome M6 TTL of course! 
 

How much do you want brass underneath..?  :D

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In France Philip , price is still correct and stable , mint condition

http://www.summilux.net/forums/viewtopic.php?f=20&t=80929

http://www.summilux.net/forums/viewtopic.php?f=20&t=80816

but digital M240 price fall 

http://www.summilux.net/forums/viewtopic.php?f=20&t=80758

if you want to read in english, copy the link and go to "translation google" :)

Rg

H

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Ive just picked up an M6 and I do really love it, the light meter is a little wonky at times, but the weight (coming from a Leica Q) is really substantial, and adds to the feel of the camera. Any little tips on how to operate the camera? Little shortcuts from other M6 users? I still find it a bit difficult to load film whilst on the move..

 

e— Anyone have pictures of what a worn titanium leica looks like? I can't seem to find an example of the kind of patina I would get with this sort of camera coating.

Edited by asap
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I still find it a bit difficult to load film whilst on the move..

At end of roll:

- film rewind lever

- rewind film

- at end of roll pay attention when the film leaves the take up spool (you can feel it in the rewind crank and even hear it "snick" if silent)

- rotate the rewind crank 3/4 to max 1 full turn to keep the film leader out for easy developing

 

- remove bottom plate

- open camera back

- remove exposed film

- drop in new film canister with left hand while holding the film leader between your left ring finger and left hand palm rest

- while inserting the canister full the film leader so it just touches the camera body inside wall in the take up spool side (the film must fit right through the center of the take up spool tulip - look at the illustration)

- check that the film is properly aligned at the film rails and the sprocket wheel

 

- close the camera back

- replace the bottom plate and lock it

- wind the advance lever and release the camera until the film counter shows "1" (you will get away using also frame "0" if you load the camera carefully in a darker place - I get mostly 2/3 of frame "0" partly exposed)

- shoot

 

This way I usually get 38 frames and never once had a mis-loaded Leica M.

 

Don't:

 

- stick your fingers though the cloth shutter while loading and aligning the film

- fold over the film leader (some people will tell you to bend the leader for a more secure loading - this is not necessary and can in worst case lend up with broken off film pieces getting stuck in the shutter rails, locking you shutter)

- DONT EVER FORCE the last frame - best case: you rip the film off the canister spool and have to unload the camera in a closet, worst case: Chucky the puppet will come to your home at night … and steal you M6 away from you, sell it on eBay and go on a Mediterranean cruise - you'll never see the camera again

 

Do:

 

- if you have a badly misaligned film at the film rails or sprocket wheel it is often faster and easier to just take out the film and repeat rather then fidgeting to get the film aligned

Edited by menos I M6
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continuation of Dirk !

 

 

and for rewind  :)

 

 

You'll see that pictures are nicer than digit.

Good photos and don't forget to share with us in "I like fim" thread

http://www.l-camera-forum.com/topic/205842-i-like-filmopen-thread/page-1327?do=findComment&comment=3193217

Thank you

Someone who use 2 digital M during 7 years

Best

Henry

Edited by Doc Henry
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At end of roll:

- film rewind lever

- rewind film

- at end of roll pay attention when the film leaves the take up spool (you can feel it in the rewind crank and even hear it "snick" if silent)

- rotate the rewind crank 3/4 to max 1 full turn to keep the film leader out for easy developing

 

- remove bottom plate

- open camera back

- remove exposed film

- drop in new film canister with left hand while holding the film leader between your left ring finger and left hand palm rest

- while inserting the canister full the film leader so it just touches the camera body inside wall in the take up spool side (the film must fit right through the center of the take up spool tulip - look at the illustration)

- check that the film is properly aligned at the film rails and the sprocket wheel

 

- close the camera back

- replace the bottom plate and lock it

- wind the advance lever and release the camera until the film counter shows "1" (you will get away using also frame "0" if you load the camera carefully in a darker place - I get mostly 2/3 of frame "0" partly exposed)

- shoot

 

This way I usually get 38 frames and never once had a mis-loaded Leica M.

 

Don't:

 

- stick your fingers though the cloth shutter while loading and aligning the film

- fold over the film leader (some people will tell you to bend the leader for a more secure loading - this is not necessary and can in worst case lend up with broken off film pieces getting stuck in the shutter rails, locking you shutter)

- DONT EVER FORCE the last frame - best case: you rip the film off the canister spool and have to unload the camera in a closet, worst case: Chucky the puppet will come to your home at night … and steal you M6 away from you, sell it on eBay and go on a Mediterranean cruise - you'll never see the camera again

 

Do:

 

- if you have a badly misaligned film at the film rails or sprocket wheel it is often faster and easier to just take out the film and repeat rather then fidgeting to get the film aligned

 

Hi Dirk, By not forcing the last frame, do you mean it is when I load the next frame, and I am unable to fire off the shutter, to not force that? I havent forced it before, but now I know not to do so!

 

continuation of Dirk !

 

 

and for rewind  :)

 

 

You'll see that pictures are nicer than digit.

Good photos and don't forget to share with us in "I like fim" thread

http://www.l-camera-forum.com/topic/205842-i-like-filmopen-thread/page-1327?do=findComment&comment=3193217

Thank you

Someone who use 2 digital M during 7 years

Best

Henry

 

Hi Henry thank you for the helpful video! I was fearing that I was rewinding too much not letting there be any bit to pull out from the spool, but the video seems to confirm that it is okay for me to fully rewind until the crank is loose :)

 

Forget the images, I want to see the Ti set!!  :D

 

(and the images...)

 

I have a few rolls processing right now, and will certainly get back to you on it :) I'll take some pictures on my phone for you to see of the actual body when I can remember to do so :)

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Hi Dirk, By not forcing the last frame, do you mean it is when I load the next frame, and I am unable to fire off the shutter, to not force that? I havent forced it before, but now I know not to do so!

When around the ~36-38 frame indicated you feel resistant during advancing the film with the advance lever - don't force it.

The resistance means that you have fully extended the film out of the canister and it will go no further.

 

That's all ;-)

I have seen people really trying to eek one more frame out of the roll, ripping the film off the canister spool and rendering their camera useless until being able to unload the roll in a dark place :-(

 

You can also completely save yourself the initial advancing with the camera open to get some film onto the makeup spool.

This is unnecessary with the Leica rapid loading take up spool and will only waste 2 frames which you could otherwise use.

It is sufficient to just drop in the film, making sure it is properly aligned between the rails and with the sprocket wheel, close the camera, shoot two empty frames (those are the ones you have exposed anyway with the camera open and start from frame 0 or frame 1.

With the camera closed you will see reliably if you have loaded properly (just watch the rewind crank rotating while advancing the film and you will also feel in the advance lever if there is any undue resistance or strange feel should you have improperly loaded.

 

As frame 0 (if you load the way I describe) is sometimes a little ruined, I tend to use it for maintenance - take a problematic lens, shoot a focus test, etc … it is always good to verify the rangefinder setting this way, as they tend to wander over the years and this way I have a reliable indicator every other roll.

 

Frame 1 will expose always reliably and you will run ~38 good frames. Have fun!

 

 

Btw - you asked for "tricks"

 

M6 finders (if not upgraded to MP finder specs during their life time) do sometimes tend to flare so focussing can be difficult in certain lighting conditions.

If this ever happens to you simply rotate the camera a few degrees away from perfectly horizontal, focus with the camera tilted (you will see the flare diminishing), re-frame properly and expose the shot.

 

A more permanent workaround should you experience the finder flare a lot (maybe you shoot a lot in low light with strong light sources backlighting the scene), you can cut a small rectangle of tape and tape about 20% to 30% of the light collecting window next to the viewfinder window (in the center) - this will result in less strong frame lines but also will drastically reduce the flare.

Edited by menos I M6
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When around the ~36-38 frame indicated you feel resistant during advancing the film with the advance lever - don't force it.

The resistance means that you have fully extended the film out of the canister and it will go no further.

 

That's all ;-)

I have seen people really trying to eek one more frame out of the roll, ripping the film off the canister spool and rendering their camera useless until being able to unload the roll in a dark place :-(

 

I see. Thank you for the advice. I always do that, advancing until maybe it cocks half way only, and then the shutter is tight and wont release. So I guess that I should really be rewinding before trying to squeeze that last frame is this correct?

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I see. Thank you for the advice. I always do that, advancing until maybe it cocks half way only, and then the shutter is tight and wont release. So I guess that I should really be rewinding before trying to squeeze that last frame is this correct?

 

No need to sweat when to rewind - just shoot normally and when you feel you cannot fully wind around the 36-38 frame indicator you will know to rewind.

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Thank you Henry. That is good to know re normal M6s (I was referring to the Millennium though).

(Et francais n'est pas un problème)

br

Philip

 

In France Philip , price is still correct and stable , mint condition

http://www.summilux.net/forums/viewtopic.php?f=20&t=80929

http://www.summilux.net/forums/viewtopic.php?f=20&t=80816

but digital M240 price fall 

http://www.summilux.net/forums/viewtopic.php?f=20&t=80758

if you want to read in english, copy the link and go to "translation google" :)

Rg

H

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  • 3 weeks later...

Not the quickest or the most convenient camera in the world but ultimately it's probably my favorite.

 

 

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M6 TTL Millennium, just added the MP style controls and a DAG black dot:

 

 

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Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members!

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