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R6.2 Light meter all over the place


M9reno

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After hesitating for a while, I decided to make the move on a mint-looking R6.2 on eBay.

 

It arrived today, and in the meantime I had discovered an old thread where cracking inside an R6.2 mirror-box is described:

http://www.l-camera-forum.com/topic/35122-r62-mirror-box-lining-cracked-clues/?do=findComment&comment=3258552

 

On opening my new camera, this is the first thing that I looked for.  Sadly, the cracking was there.

 

The other issue that I am experiencing with the camera may or may not be related to this cracking.  It is very peculiar:

 

- I began by using a v.1 135mm Elmarit and observed that the R6.2 (properly focused and set to selective metering onto uniformly lit, mid-reflectance surfaces) was reckoning correct exposure to be at f/11 when correct exposure (repeatedly measured by a Seconic L-758DR on spot meter and confirmed by incident readings, both by this same meter and a 308S) was two stops greater, at f/5.6.

 

- Then, sticking on a 100 Apo-Macro-Elmarit, readings were exactly correct!

 

- Confirming with a 280 f/4 Apo-Telyt, readings were also correct (actually, maybe off by no more than half a stop, or so, but within a margin of error, in any case).

 

- Switching to a 80 Summilux, readings off by a stop (camera asking for f/5.6, when actually f/4).

 

-  Finally, on a v. 1 50 Summicron, off again by two stops (camera asking for f/11 for a f/5.6 subject).

 

My only guess is that, depending on the lens used, there is more or less internal reflection caused inside the deteriorated mirror-box, throwing off the meter.  Why a 100 and a 280 would be fine, but not a 135, however, seems strange to me.  A possible pattern: newer lenses seem to do better than older ones.

 

Anyway... what could be going on?  Have other people experienced this?  Should I return the camera?

 

Thanks for any and all advice!

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Some illustrations of the crazing /cracking on the three sides inside the mirror box, holding up the mirror in B mode.

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Edited by M9reno
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Hello Al,

 

Were your readings at "stop down" or "full aperture" metering?

 

You might set them all at a medium aperture such as F8 & then stop down the lenses manually & measure.

 

It could be that the LINKAGE that tells the camera which aperture is set is not acting correctly.

 

Perhaps some exercising of the camera mechanisms at all positions, ie: Various shutter speeds, moving lens apertures back & forth with the lens on the camera, etc, will help things both in the lenses & in the camera..

 

Best Regards,

 

Michael

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I'll be darned - manually stopping down the lens with the depth of field preview yields correct measurements (at least on the 135 Elmarit)!

 

Could it be a simple mechanical solution on the camera in this case?

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Same on the v.1 Summicron.  Readings are correct only when aperture is set at f/2 or using the depth of filed preview when stopped down.

 

Looks like the deciding factor is the presence of the 3rd/'R' cam on the lens - now it all makes sense.

Edited by M9reno
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Same on the v.1 Summicron.  Readings are correct only when aperture is set at f/2 or using the depth of filed preview when stopped down.

 

Looks like the deciding factor is the presence of the 3rd/'R' cam on the lens - now it all makes sense.

 

Yes you must have a 3 cam or 'R' only lens for open aperture metering to work!

 

The cracking seems to be an age related thing - unless it's falling away I'd leave it alone.

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I re-tested with the three-cammed 80 Summilux again, and it works as it should.  My 'problem' was only with the 135 and 50, both early/mid-70's two-cam lenses.  

 

Gary, the cracking might well be a deal-breaker.  I suspect that there are no replacement parts to be found, and that repair would not be economical even if there were.  In any case, even if the cracking does not get worse and surface remains in place, it will affect the value of the camera, and I paid near-mint price (£600).  

 

James, I hope you are right: the fact that there have been reports of the problem on this forum but, it seems, only with aesthetic consequences is vaguely encouraging.

 

 It seems I need to consult a tech.

Edited by M9reno
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Some illustrations of the crazing /cracking on the three sides inside the mirror box, holding up the mirror in B mode.

 

Mine's the same & I use it almost daily... No issues for me. I wouldn't worry about it unless some of the "foam" starts to flakes off.

 

I have thought about replacing it but it would be extremely difficult to do and finding the appropriate thin foam may also be very difficult.

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