Macro adapter with M 10 and Various lens

[LeicadudeLouietown]

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Does anyone know the minimal lens to subject when the Macroadapter on a M 10 is matched with these lenses?

 

50 mm Summilux f 1.4

 

75 mm Summicron f 2.0

 

90 mm Apo Summicron M f 2.0

 

90 mm Macro Elmar f 4.0

 

I am new to the M10 and the various lenses

[a.noctilux]

You may find answers in many ways,

 

have a look here

http://www.l-camera-forum.com/leica-wiki.en/index.php/MACRO-ADAPTER-M

 

and here:

http://www.l-camera-forum.com/topic/231388-new-macro-converter-with-other-lenses/

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[satureyes]

To be fair on the OP neither of those posts really cover what he was asking too much.

Would be nicer to offer an answer rather than sarcastic reply about checking the forums.

[pop]

The adapter provides a variable extension between 18 and 30mm. The distance from lens to object depends on the total length of the extension and the focal length of the lens. There is no generic recipe for finding that distance as you would have to know the extension built into the lens and the  depth of the lens itself. However, knowing the focal length and the extension, it's quite easy to find the magnification factors and some hints to the lens-to-subject distance using the optical formula.

[Guest]

Does anyone know the minimal lens to subject when the Macroadapter on a M 10 is matched with these lenses?

 

50 mm Summilux f 1.4

 

90 mm Apo Summicron M f 2.0

 

90 mm Macro Elmar f 4.0

 

I have used it with success on the above lenses. I am also new to the M10, but not that new to the lenses. It is much as pop suggested, the extension with that adapter is variable. 

[lct]

Welcome to the forum .

You mean the minimum subject distance i guess.

No M10 here sorry (Sony A7s mod) but just to give you an idea:

50/1.4 asph: about 25cm

75/2 apo: about 35cm

90/2 apo: about 40cm

90/4 macro v1: about 40cm

 

[Magic]

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I only have the 50 Summilux but I would guess, the minimal distance between lense and object is 8-10 cm when using f=1.4 or 2...haven't measured it yet though.

[lct]

On the M240, assuming the focal plane is at the same position as the built-in microphone:

50/1.4 asph: about 21cm

75/2 apo: about 32cm

90/2 apo: about 40cm

90/4 macro v1: about 40cm

[LocalHero1953]

In such cases I tend to return to Mr Newton: 1/u + 1/v = 1/f.

Take u and f as the non-macro close focusing distance and focal length respectively; solve for v.

Take this calculated v and add to it the macro adaptor thickness; use the same equation, with the same f, to solve for u, the new close focusing distance.

 

Plenty of assumptions here (it probably doesn't work with internally focusing lenses), and people are welcome to tear my reasoning apart, but it seems to work for my macro calcs to the level of accuracy that I need.

[lct]

No M10 here sorry (Sony A7s mod) but just to give you an idea:

50/1.4 asph: about 25cm

75/2 apo: about 35cm

 

Correction on the Sony, sorry.

50/1.4 asph: about 22cm

75/2 apo: about 33cm

[a.noctilux]

To be fair on the OP neither of those posts really cover what he was asking too much.

Would be nicer to offer an answer rather than sarcastic reply about checking the forums.

 

My answer means NOT to be sarcastic at all.

 

To be fair to "someone who takes time to answer or pointing for informations to help", please do not write this kind of "reply" (that add nothing to the OP question ).

[satureyes]

My answer means NOT to be sarcastic at all.

 

To be fair to "someone who takes time to answer or pointing for informations to help", please do not write this kind of "reply" (that add nothing to the OP question ).

 

Your reply was such a typical 'Leica forum' reply.. I'm sure he did look through the forum. Apart from the answer you gave the other answers have been pretty helpful. 

 

I think the distance of the 90 is helpful so you don't have to get super close to the object - handy for insects and things but I have used the M adapter with a 35, 50 and 90. I think the 50 is the best compromise. I do find it extremely narrow in terms of focus area when shooting 1.4 on the 50 lux. The blur is lovely but it can be too much. 

 

It's not a mathematical answer I'm afraid but perhaps practical.

[Magic]

Grey is all the theory.....

 

This is the image: (M10, Summilux 50mm, Macro Adapter fully extended, f=5.6, 1/15s, ISO6400, in Photoshop only resized):

 

 

Here is the setup:

 

 

...and the result....tadaaa....

 

(apologies for the dust)

Edited April 21, 2017 by Magic

[lct]

Thanks for sharing. I realize that i misunderstood the OP's question. I thought he wanted to know the minimum subject distance i.e. from the focal plane to the subject. My apologies.

[jto555]

In such cases I tend to return to Mr Newton: 1/u + 1/v = 1/f.

Take u and f as the non-macro close focusing distance and focal length respectively; solve for v.

Take this calculated v and add to it the macro adaptor thickness; use the same equation, with the same f, to solve for u, the new close focusing distance.

 

Plenty of assumptions here (it probably doesn't work with internally focusing lenses), and people are welcome to tear my reasoning apart, but it seems to work for my macro calcs to the level of accuracy that I need.

My Brain Hurts... 

[satureyes]

I ended up at a butterfly exhibit today. Took the M10, 35 lux and the macro M adapter. Rotated the adapter so brought the lens closest to the sensor and had the lens on min focus distance. I'd say the focus point was about 10 to 15 cm.

here's a shot I pulled off the camera via wifi and just a little tweak in Lightroom.

 

[Jager]

I ended up at a butterfly exhibit today. Took the M10, 35 lux and the macro M adapter. Rotated the adapter so brought the lens closest to the sensor and had the lens on min focus distance. I'd say the focus point was about 10 to 15 cm.

here's a shot I pulled off the camera via wifi and just a little tweak in Lightroom.

 

 

Nice picture, Rick.

 

Can I ask what your workflow was... vis-a-vis pulling the image off via WiFi and then tweaking in Lightroom?  Were you using DNG or JPG?  And once you had the image in your phone or tablet, how did you edit it in Lightroom?  Lightroom Mobile?

 

I ask because my first quick test of Leica's pull-your-image-to-your-mobile-device-via-WiFi was something of a mix.  The connection part was very straightforward.  Alas, since I'm using the standalone version of Lightroom (no Lightroom Mobile, in other words) and usually shoot DNG-only, it was kind of an aborted adventure.

[satureyes]

Nice picture, Rick.

 

Can I ask what your workflow was... vis-a-vis pulling the image off via WiFi and then tweaking in Lightroom? Were you using DNG or JPG? And once you had the image in your phone or tablet, how did you edit it in Lightroom? Lightroom Mobile?

 

I ask because my first quick test of Leica's pull-your-image-to-your-mobile-device-via-WiFi was something of a mix. The connection part was very straightforward. Alas, since I'm using the standalone version of Lightroom (no Lightroom Mobile, in other words) and usually shoot DNG-only, it was kind of an aborted adventure.

 

Well I think you need to be on LR CC to get the benefits. I can't comment on what happens if you don't subscribe.

 

Connecting the camera to the phone is as joyous as you've discovered - it's a pain but that's iOS rather than the Leica app.

 

I connect the camera - and view the photos. I only shoot raw. I picked the image I wanted and hit download. I've set the Leica app to transfer the 24mp file.

 

The file now sits on the camera roll. You can then open this up with any photo editor on iOS. Doesn't have to be LR. I know people use Snapseed with success.

 

Tweak the image and save it. That's it.

The advantage of LR is that it's non-destructive and also will sync back to your main catalogue at the same time so in theory you can download all your shoot to your phone via wifi and pull them into LR mobile and if you've got a decent connection your images will appear on your desktop. The full size DNG files.

 

I never thought I'd use the wifi on the camera but it's a nice thing to do. I was downloading pics from the camera whilst on the train home and sending some snaps to the family photo stream.

[tobey bilek]

A 50 mm needs 25mm extension to get to 1:2 or half life size .     50 mm will get 1:1   or full life size  or an object the size of the sensor will fill the frame.  Extrapolate for other focal lengths.    This formula will hold true for lenses that are neither wide angle  ( requires less)  or telephoto will will require more.

 

Macro elmar is not telephoto design and should follow formula.   90 ApO is tele design  and will require more extension than formula.

 

Beware 90 APO is not a great close lens.

 

Lenses with floating elements like 50 1.4 and 75 APO  probably need to be used at MFD and extension added as required.   Macro Elmar  works anywhere, anytime.  Notice the high mag pics of the butterfly are with a wide lens which gets high mag with less extension, down side being you need to be very close.

 

The longer the focal length,  the further you will be at any given magnification ratio.  

 

The formulas do not apply exactly for  floating element and true WA and True Telephoto designs

Edited April 21, 2017 by tobey bilek

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[Magic]

I know this was not the question but I was curious to try out the Summilux 28....

 

(focus on the "O" of "ROLEX"), f=1.4, ISO 800, 1/60s

 

setup: (the Visoflex 020 is phantastic...)

 

result:

Edited April 24, 2017 by Magic