Auto ISO settings on the M10.............Question

[Guest NEIL-D-WILLIAMS]

Advertisement (gone after registration)

Okay

So my new M10 will come with an ISO switch on the left hand side with A for auto and M for manual and a bunch of other numbers, so my question is, what auto ISO setting do you guys use.

I'm  personally thinking after hearing all the reviews of the new M10's amazing ISO capabilities that I will have my auto ISO set at 100 to 3200 (with 2 x focal length) and have manual set at 12800 for dark dark shots 

 

What do you guys choose to do??

[Photon42]

I am entirely manual, when it comes to setting the ISO on my M10. Good thing is that I can always see the present choice (like with the M-D). I do realise I am in the minority, perhaps.

[Advertisement]

The Leica Q3 is available for pre-order at B&H Photo Video and Adorama

[jdlaing]

102,400 for me.

[M11 for me]

I do the following: Before setting the high ISO M and A values I took many shots at high ISO inside at night time and I found that ISO 20'000 is the highest ISO setting that renders acceptable images. 25'600 is for me beyond an acceptable limit. Further I think that if set to Auto ISO then you should allow the ISO go up to this highest acceptable value. As a consequence I have ISO Auto set to 20'000. Then there is the question what ISO M should be: Here I am pragmatic: When I look at the numbers on the knob then I see the figures 100, 200, 400, 800, 1600, 3200 and 6400. When in manual mode I can choose those values. Then the next mark on the know after these 6400  is "M". It is logic then that this M should be the next ISO value of 12'800. So "M" for me is set to 12'800. When turning to knob to the next indication (which is "A") then I have the ISO 20'000 available if needed.

 

Like that I have covered the whole range of ISO values that I am prepared to use. Normally I am in full manual mode anyway. And normally my ISO is not higher than 400 or 800. Higher ISO I expect only in special light situations for which I will most probably use my Canon gear. But if I need the high ISO everything is prepared. It is useless to set "A" to 3200. When you need higher ISO why would you limit yourself? 

[01af]

Just recently, someone here said, 'Auto-ISO is something that happens to other people.' Couldn't agree more.

[M11 for me]

Yes. But there are exeptions to that rule

[UliWer]

Advertisement (gone after registration)

And somewhere must be those other people, to whom it happens.

[cp995]

Beside other "toy stuff" in other modern cameras, Auto ISO is a real nice feature for me since years (with my DLSMs).

The M10 is now fortunately able to be used with ISO 3200 for "normal" use too!

I avoid extreme max. settings (behind 3200 ISO) and set manual ISO only in bad light.

Edited March 29, 2017 by cp995

[UliWer]

For me the ISO-selection of the auto ISO function is not so important, since I take most pictures in natural daylight. Much more important is the function to restrict the minimal shutter speed, which corresponds with auto ISO. To use 2x the speed of your focal length gives you at least some safeguard against shaking - let auto ISO care for it. I choose a rather conservative ISO 1600 for its limit. Since I see the shutter times in the viewfinder, I can decide which "risk" I take: allowing longer times or switching to higher ISO values. With 135mm I certainly decide for the second option with 35mm for the first.

[Guest NEIL-D-WILLIAMS]

I do the following: Before setting the high ISO M and A values I took many shots at high ISO inside at night time and I found that ISO 20'000 is the highest ISO setting that renders acceptable images. 25'600 is for me beyond an acceptable limit. Further I think that if set to Auto ISO then you should allow the ISO go up to this highest acceptable value. As a consequence I have ISO Auto set to 20'000. Then there is the question what ISO M should be: Here I am pragmatic: When I look at the numbers on the knob then I see the figures 100, 200, 400, 800, 1600, 3200 and 6400. When in manual mode I can choose those values. Then the next mark on the know after these 6400 is "M". It is logic then that this M should be the next ISO value of 12'800. So "M" for me is set to 12'800. When turning to knob to the next indication (which is "A") then I have the ISO 20'000 available if needed.

 

Like that I have covered the whole range of ISO values that I am prepared to use. Normally I am in full manual mode anyway. And normally my ISO is not higher than 400 or 800. Higher ISO I expect only in special light situations for which I will most probably use my Canon gear. But if I need the high ISO everything is prepared. It is useless to set "A" to 3200. When you need higher ISO why would you limit yourself?

reading your last paragraph, would it not make sense to set your auto ISO to 100/800 and your M to 20,000??

[Guest NEIL-D-WILLIAMS]

Just recently, someone here said, 'Auto-ISO is something that happens to other people.' Couldn't agree more.

Why??

[M11 for me]

reading your last paragraph, would it not make sense to set your auto ISO to 100/800 and your M to 20,000??

 

 

You might be right. But for me 20'000 is an extreme (my max setting for acceptable results) and should apply only if absolutely necessary. Maybe in a situation 15'000 or maybe 18'000 are enough. Why should I then set 20'000 on M? That would mean that the cam would NOT go below. Have a look at the ISO knob: You see all the ISO numbers in the circle and next to the 6400 you see the "M". For me then it makes sense to assign the next ISO value after 6'400 i.e. 12'800. As I said it above I do most time everything manually. That means as well that I turn the ISO knob all by looking through the viewfinder: After 6400 I want to hit 12'800 without leaving the viewfinder with my eye. The Auto ISO I use with bad lighting conditions: I want to avoid too high ISO. 20'000 is the max but the Auto function goes below if possible. That is the aim.

 

However there might be different ways of approaching this. And note: If you want to go with Auto ISO I can do that: And why then should I set a limitation that is below the limit that I consider still acceptable, which is 20'000. I was at the Basel watch fair last week and I have several pictures that were done in A Mode and that have 20'000 ISO or some have around 15'000. I am really amazed how good they are. In Lightroom you manage very easily.

[Guest NEIL-D-WILLIAMS]

You might be right. But for me 20'000 is an extreme (my max setting for acceptable results) and should apply only if absolutely necessary. Maybe in a situation 15'000 or maybe 18'000 are enough. Why should I then set 20'000 on M? That would mean that the cam would NOT go below. Have a look at the ISO knob: You see all the ISO numbers in the circle and next to the 6400 you see the "M". For me then it makes sense to assign the next ISO value after 6'400 i.e. 12'800. As I said it above I do most time everything manually. That means as well that I turn the ISO knob all by looking through the viewfinder: After 6400 I want to hit 12'800 without leaving the viewfinder with my eye. The Auto ISO I use with bad lighting conditions: I want to avoid too high ISO. 20'000 is the max but the Auto function goes below if possible. That is the aim.

 

However there might be different ways of approaching this. And note: If you want to go with Auto ISO I can do that: And why then should I set a limitation that is below the limit that I consider still acceptable, which is 20'000. I was at the Basel watch fair last week and I have several pictures that were done in A Mode and that have 20'000 ISO or some have around 15'000. I am really amazed how good they are. In Lightroom you manage very easily.

I haven't seen any M10 file at any ISO so cannot comment on what the M10 DNG's are good or what is bad. On my SL I use ISO50 and can quickly switch to auto IOS with a max of 1600 whick is all I want to shoot at because for ME anything over ISO1600 is sh!te. On my S007 I use base 100 and max auto ISO the same 1600, but any file shot at ISO1600 need a hell of a lot of work done on it in PS to make it usable (for MY taste). The other issue with the S007 is that for ME I need a minimum of 1/500 to be able to successfully shoot hand held with all my lenses 30 to 120, so this is what can also drive up ISO

I hope this helps

 

Neil

Personally I think auto ISO is a fantastic tool and something you should try and master

[Photon42]

I haven't seen any M10 file at any ISO so cannot comment on what the M10 DNG's are good or what is bad. On my SL I use ISO50 and can quickly switch to auto IOS with a max of 1600 whick is all I want to shoot at because for ME anything over ISO1600 is sh!te.  [...]

 

 

With that approach, you have your question answered.

[Guest NEIL-D-WILLIAMS]

With that approach, you have your question answered.

I guess

 

Saying that I wouldn't mind seeing some high ISO shots taken with the M10 while I wait for mine to be delivered

[digitalfx]

I don't use auto ISO on the M10...Id rather be in control and with the new dial on top its very easy to do that.

Especially now that you can set ISO before you even turn on the camera.

 

On the M240 I used it only because I would forget to set ISO since it was a menu setting. Now with the large dial on top of the camera, its very easy to consider it first.

[Luke_Miller]

I don't use auto ISO on the M10...Id rather be in control and with the new dial on top its very easy to do that.

 

Don't have an M10, but I use Auto ISO regularly on my M-240 and M-246.  With those bodies I find that, within reasonable limits, the image is unaffected by ISO.  I like to have total control over aperture and shutter speed.  So with Auto ISO I am free to use manual shutter speed/aperture values that are optimum for the shot I am trying to create.

[Guest]

 ...I wouldn't mind seeing some high ISO shots taken with the M10 while I wait for mine to be delivered

 

I haven't been free to shoot much the last couple of weeks since I've had the M10, but the little I've shot was mainly at ISO 3200.

_______________

Alone in Bangkok essay on BURN Magazine