HenrikP Posted February 1, 2017 Share #1 Posted February 1, 2017 Advertisement (gone after registration) I have been offered this lens at a reasonable price, with a 12 month warranty. It is version IV with 7 elemnter, in other words, the model who was in the programme up to 1996. It is a Leitz Canada lens with serial # 3485924 from 1989, which is to say that it is from just before the break, where the production of Leica lenses were stopped in Canada 1988/89 and went back to Germany. It is the smallest Edition of all 35/2.0 M lenses and have always had a really good reputation. This lens can NOT be 6-bit coded, so the seller would like to upgrade to the latest model. It is in really nice condition. Hand on heart, I would prefer a version made in Germany, but it is probably mostly a vain thing, since I don't think it makes any difference, except for the price. It is for my M9, it is a complement to my 50 mm F2.4. Should I buy it or? Regards Henrik Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Advertisement Posted February 1, 2017 Posted February 1, 2017 Hi HenrikP, Take a look here 35mm summicron IV question.. I'm sure you'll find what you were looking for!
ShivaYash Posted February 1, 2017 Share #2 Posted February 1, 2017 I have been offered this lens at a reasonable price, with a 12 month warranty. It is version IV with 7 elemnter, in other words, the model who was in the programme up to 1996. It is a Leitz Canada lens with serial # 3485924 from 1989, which is to say that it is from just before the break, where the production of Leica lenses were stopped in Canada 1988/89 and went back to Germany. It is the smallest Edition of all 35/2.0 M lenses and have always had a really good reputation. This lens can NOT be 6-bit coded, so the seller would like to upgrade to the latest model. It is in really nice condition. Hand on heart, I would prefer a version made in Germany, but it is probably mostly a vain thing, since I don't think it makes any difference, except for the price. It is for my M9, it is a complement to my 50 mm F2.4. Should I buy it or? Regards Henrik Buy. And you can 6-bit it. But it's not needed. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
lct Posted February 1, 2017 Share #3 Posted February 1, 2017 (edited) Sure the 35/2 v4 (# 11310) can be coded. See https://www.dpreview.com/articles/0669712115/leicamdlenses Great little lens indeed. My favorite 35/2 for 20+ years. A bit soft in corners and borders below f/4 but plenty sharp otherwise with some CA at full aperture and a bit of focus shift around f/4. Only flaw i'm aware of its optical cell tends to unstick from the focusing mount. Better check that it is firmly stuck to the latter. Edited February 1, 2017 by lct 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
HenrikP Posted February 1, 2017 Author Share #4 Posted February 1, 2017 Only flaw i'm aware of its optical cell tends to unstick from the focusing mount. Better check that it is firmly stuck to the latter. What / how do I tjek it? I am quite new to the rangefinder thing thank you Regards Henrik Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
spydrxx Posted February 1, 2017 Share #5 Posted February 1, 2017 It is a fine lens...you just need to inspect it to ensure everything measures up to your standards, focusing smoothly, clear glass, etc. 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
tobey bilek Posted February 1, 2017 Share #6 Posted February 1, 2017 Optical cell unit is glued/cemented in. They tend to uncement. Mount and dismount by holding near rear of lens. Repair is expensive so make sure it is not loose by wiggling lens. Original rectangular shade is hard to find and sometimes is crooked if the cell is not glued properly. I never take the shade off mine. Performance in slightly below 35 2.0 ASPH. I would not self code. The China mounts are not made correctly all the time and the originals may or may not be the .040 flange thickness Chinese one are made to. I have had to take .001" off more than one. That 1/1000 is enough to cause noticable front focus. You need a micrometer, surface plate, abrasive paper and grinding technique to repair properly. The Chinese mount will cover one screw so only 5 screw holes remain. Use cross point screw driver, not phillips. Tighten slowly working around the mount in star pattern 4 times. If you do not do it right you can bind the focus helical. Then again you may be lucky and have everything mate properly. If you work thru all this, it will work on the M9. I would recommend a 35 2.4 and it perform better and will be coded. You can also tell the M9 you are using an uncoded lens and it will do the same file changes as if it were coded. Pain to do however if you change lenses . My V4 lives on my M8, ASPH on the M9. 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
microview Posted February 1, 2017 Share #7 Posted February 1, 2017 Advertisement (gone after registration) I have had about four of these at various times, and never had a problem with front coming unstuck! Malcolm Taylor will code at a reasonable price if preferred and he can clean/adjust if you encounter any focus problems. An alternative would be the Zeiss 35 2.8 ZM, probably more uniform in resolution over the frame, but one stop lower. Obviously you don't dismount lens by grabbing front half, least of all with a rectangular hood in situ, but near the camera body. Leica makes a short circular screw-in (E39) hood which works on this – very appealing – lens, incidentally. 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
russell Posted February 1, 2017 Share #8 Posted February 1, 2017 I think the glue problem was fixed with the more recent samples. Mine is chrome and no build issues. The corners are weak even when compared to the pre-apsh summilux which was surprising but also borne out by looking at MTF charts at Leica London, speaking with Malcolm and (I hesitate to mention) even Ken Rockwell has the v1 as doing better in the corner. However, it's the smallest build, best ergonomics and the weak corners might add to the 3D effect. I stopped using mine and might look to swap it for a v1 one day or perhaps a 1960s f2.8 now that ISOs are high enough. So to answer your question, don't buy the 1989 example. Wait for a 1994-96 example or go for a 1960s v1. 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
otto.f Posted February 1, 2017 Share #9 Posted February 1, 2017 Bit-coding is overrated, the Summicron 35 iv can hardly be overrated. Yes it can be coded and yes the bit-code can come of the mount. With mine in five years or so, I let it redo for a few quarters by Will van Maanen. But I tend to put auto lens detection off more and more these days. The 75lux as well as the 35cron iv do very well and show more character without in-camera corrections, especially with Monochromes 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
HenrikP Posted February 1, 2017 Author Share #10 Posted February 1, 2017 So to answer your question, don't buy the 1989 example. Wait for a 1994-96 example or go for a 1960s v1. Thank you that I will then, wait for a newer version maybe an asph Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
pgk Posted February 1, 2017 Share #11 Posted February 1, 2017 Only flaw i'm aware of its optical cell tends to unstick from the focusing mount. Better check that it is firmly stuck to the latter. And it can be a tricky lens to work on - MT had a go at mine but it proved beyond viable repair due to parts problems. Pity as its a lovely little lens - I'd agree with all the comments made here but would personally buy the new Summarit (or a used copy) myself. 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frase Posted February 2, 2017 Share #12 Posted February 2, 2017 If you like it and its a good price buy it, I've the german version and can't say its made any better than any of the canadian ones I've seen. Its so cheap to buy the chinese mounts I think its still worth a try and much cheaper than having someone do it. Its my most used lens on my M9, I've seen no focus shift and its sharp at all apertures. 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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