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Leica Yellow/polarizing Filters for B&W Photographs - Opinions Please!


lencap

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Greetings -

 

I'm just beginning my ownership of the Leica M-A and the Summarit 35mm f/2.4 lens.  So far I'm enjoying myself, but realize my black and white skills have deteriorated over the years.

 

In the past I almost always shot with a yellow filter - which in my mind gave me a more "balanced" image.  Since reacquainting with the M-A and TriX I've felt that there isn't the same "pop" in my negatives, and I wonder if it's because I'm no longer using a yellow filter.  I also notice that my landscape images also lack "something" and I wonder if the lack of a polarizing filter may be part of the reason.

 

I plan to use film exclusively over this year, and want to try to maximize my images from the start.  

Should I invest in both a Leica yellow filter (in the old days we referred to yellow filters as number 8 - I don't know if that applies the the Leica yellow or if the yellow/green Leica filter is closer to number 8), and a polarizing filter (which I found very useful in the past, especially for landscape shots).

 

I welcome you thoughts about which Leica filters to get (if any), and other alternatives (B&W/Heliopan) if appropriate.  Again, I'm nowhere near a pro, just a returning amateur, but I'd like to start off correctly.  

By the way, I plan to potentially add a 75mm Summarit lens, which will also be a 46mm diameter filter.  I'll likely use 46mm diameter lenses exclusively, so I don't mind paying a bit more for higher quality.

Thanks in advance for the help.

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I wouldn't buy a Leica filter they are just rebranded anyway. Any of the well-known brands is fine, for instance a B+W 022 yellow filter.

For polarizing I find the Leica swing-out, though pricey, the most practical solution.

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use a filter when you need\want what the filter will do.

 

If you're missing something in the negative, consider the "free" things you can adjust before you go out spending money on anything.

Namely evaluate what you're doing with your exposure and development process (developer, temp, time, agitation, etc).

 

Edit, and since you're just getting back into it, I see no better way than to start here with the basics of the photographic process rather than fooling with more gear. Get the process down and understand what you have control over before you go adding in too many variables.

Edited by pechelman
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Thanks for the comments - I also consider filters basic to black and white photography in particular.  I've always found the yellow filter "core" to my images.  Just enough to get things highlighted, but not too strong to change composition.

 

My developing skills need work - still using the local lab until I can get some good used gear.  

 

I'm relying on the Sunny 16 rule, but have a Sekonic 558 as well.

 

Overall I'm shooting less and enjoying it more.  That was the goal.  

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Certainly contrast filters are a part of B&W, but without first understanding if you have a contrast ("pop") issue because of a development issue or exposure issue, it might be a bit premature to slap on a piece of colored glass, which in some cases, can even further degrade contrast on the negative.

 

but to directly answer your question anyway, I like the bw 022 (medium'ish yellow) and 040 (orange) filters. Polarizers have a very strong and adjustable effect as well. I believe one of the better more highly rated polarizers, based off actual testing, is the marumi brand.

 

Since I'm working on the 246 lately, I've been using the heliopan #5 light yellow instead though because I find it more suited to that sensor than the b+w's.

No need to buy a leica filter as I believe they just buy the glass from b+w anyway.

Edited by pechelman
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  Since reacquainting with the M-A and TriX I've felt that there isn't the same "pop" in my negatives, and I wonder if it's because I'm no longer using a yellow filter.  I also notice that my landscape images also lack "something" and I wonder if the lack of a polarizing filter may be part of the reason.

 

 

 

Could we be clear how you are evaluating the negatives as not having "pop"? Are you scanning, if so with what device and settings printing and if so how, or just by visual inspection and if so against what are you judging?

As above comments there are lots of things to look at before you rush off and spend, although I do use a yellow filter regularly and should probably more often.

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A 'balanced image' and 'pop' would probably equate to a yellow filter, rendering blue skies darker to bring out clouds, and grass and leaves lighter to stop greens looking muddy. Personally I think polarisers are more capable of spoiling an image more than improving it, and of course are situational depending on the angle and direction of light, whereas a yellow filter can be left in place day-in-day-out. Unless I was concerned about shutter speed/aperture and the loss of two stops I wouldn't take a yellow filter off for general photography. 

Edited by 250swb
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Again thanks for the help.  "Pop" to me is a clear, well focused negative with good contrast that reflects my intention when composing the image.  In old days I shot Hasselblad for a time, and loved the large square negatives.  The view through the waist level finder was almost 3D in effect - it was enjoyable.  The negatives "popped" largely because of the large size and the ability to easily see what was on them when placed on a light table.

 

My recent images are part of the learning curve.  Sunny 16 is a good starting point, but I've got a long way to go to create solid images without a meter.  I've recently added a Sekonic L558, and the learning curve is a bit steeper than I anticipated.  Despite that, it's pretty obvious that the Summarit 35mm f/2.4 lens is plenty sharp - the shortfall is mine, not the equipment.

 

My questions about the filters are more "best practice" in nature.  Back when I almost always used filters for B&W images.  As has been mentioned, landscapes had more contrast, skin blemishes were less obvious, and things seemed more "balanced" with the filters.  I also admit that I had little success with polarizers - either I had them set incorrectly - creating dark/light banding - or the images washed out.  Again, my fault, not the equipment.

 

I'm still relearning and improving skills from decades ago.  Regardless of the outcome it's a journey I enjoy and one that I'll continue to explore.  Your help is welcome.

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Hello Lencap,

 

Welcome to the Forum.

 

If you are finding the learning curve "steep" with your new meter why not begin by using it as an incident meter?

Incident metering is reasonably fast & reasonably reliable:

 

Set the ISO.

 

Choose either aperture or shutter speed & place that number in the appropriate location on the meter.

 

Then walk up to the subject & point the hemisphere at where the camera will be when you take the photo.

 

Push the button & look at the results. Done.

 

If the subject is too far away & the same light that is falling on the subject is also falling on you: You can just point the meter cell in a line from the subject to the camera continuing away from you & then push the button. Also done.

 

Both will give you reasonably good exposures in a variety of situations.  

 

Best Regards,

 

Michael

Edited by Michael Geschlecht
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