Fuji Superia 800 processed as B&W

[Wayne]

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I have a couple rolls of Fuji Superia 800 color film that have no images of importance contained. I want to try my hand at developing them as B&W rolls......I understand this is possible.

 

Do I just treat them as 800 ASA and develop them in Rodinal......Just like I would a roll of 400 TriX pushed to 800?

 

Thanks for any help......or admonishment.

 

Best

 

Wayne

[mikemgb]

I have developed colour film in black and white chemistry, it gives a dense but usable neg. All colour films develop at the same time, no matter their speed. I generally use Ilfosol 3 at 21 minutes, for Rodinal 1+25 you will need about 18 minutes.

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[Michael Hiles]

Assuming you want a printable or scanable B&W negative, what advantages are there to processing colour negative film to produce a B&W negative? 

[Wayne]

My JOBO CPE-3 is broke down. I have heard that it is possible to process color film as B&W. No practical motivation. Just curious to see what it looks like when done.

[gbealnz]

Good on ya mate. Experimentation.

"chrism" was the whizz at this stuff as I recall, and I've not seen his name here for a while now, I'm hoping he is OK.

Gary

[Michael Hiles]

There was/is someone here - maybe chrism - who processes XP2 in B&W chemicals. The results posted here seemed to be OK - but no evidence of a breakthrough. In the case of XP2 there are some advantages to the dye-based images that flow from the C41 process. IMO it is outstanding. I wonder whether XP2 in (say) Rodinal can compete with Delta 400 in an appropriate developer. I am sceptical but prepared to be surprised. But I would like to hear of your results.

[mikemgb]

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The results of colour film processed and black and white chemistry are far from ideal, the negatives are very dense with highlight detail lost. However, they have a look that is different from correctly processed film. If you're not looking for ultimate quality but are interested in the funky results that cross processing can produce then give it a try.

[adan]

Wayne - see: http://www.l-camera-forum.com/topic/261178-well-that-wasrandom/?do=findComment&comment=3055791

 

BTW - it is easy to run C-41 in a regular film tank. it does not require using a JOBO. Just pre-heat the chemistry in a hot water bath (to 100° F) and then keep 100° water flowing over the tank between agitations, and agitate gently once every 20 seconds to match the gentle, continuous rolling of the JOBO (or a continuous-motion mini-lab machine). 100° ± .25 is only really critical for the developer stage - for the rest of the process, 95-105 is fine (just nudge the bleach/fix stages timing up or down correspondingly).

Edited January 23, 2017 by adan

[mikemgb]

Wayne - see: http://www.l-camera-forum.com/topic/261178-well-that-wasrandom/?do=findComment&comment=3055791

 

BTW - it is easy to run C-41 in a regular film tank. it does not require using a JOBO. Just pre-heat the chemistry in a hot water bath (to 100° F) and then keep 100° water flowing over the tank between agitations, and agitate gently once every 20 seconds to match the gentle, continuous rolling of the JOBO (or a continuous-motion mini-lab machine). 100° ± .25 is only really critical for the developer stage - for the rest of the process, 95-105 is fine (just nudge the bleach/fix stages timing up or down correspondingly).

 

Adan has a point here too, I don't have a Jobo but still process C41 as well as black and white, I actually have three films I intend to process tomorrow evening.

[Bobitybob]

Might be worth a look here http://www.l-camera-forum.com/topic/226596-agfaphoto-vistaplus-and-d76/?p=2583844 at the end there are a few examples.

 

Hope thats helpful