Are there any benefits of using film compared to digital

[Doc Henry]

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Talking of film and printing....Color Silver Gelatin Print (11x14") from 35 mm negative on Arista color glossy paper for RA-4 print process. Had fun developing the film (Kodak Gold 200) with C-41 and then enlarging in color with my color diffuser head enlarger (yellow: 36, magenta: 42, blue: 0), and printing with RA-4 chemicals with manual drum processing. Yes, it took some time to get this all done, but the result speaks for itself....(cellphone shot of the matted print)

 

 

Martin , yes print in color on silver paper is still possible (I do it in my Leica Center lab in 30x40cms on Kodak Paper) print but also watch slides with grains of film in projection , not square pixels . With Ektachrome which will be produced soon by Kodak , what the pleasure of watching these slides in faithful color on the large screen with one good and old Leitz Pradovit 1500 , mounted with a Colorplan 2.5/90mm lens , in the living room.

 

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Martin good work for your color print !

 

Best

H

Edited January 11, 2017 by Doc Henry

[Doc Henry]

Henry,

 

I'm surprised it took you so long to weigh in :-)

 

Regards

Mark

 

Mark   ....  a little busy this time

Thanks for your comment and Best Wishes for a Happy New Year to you and family. 

Regards

Henry

Edited January 11, 2017 by Doc Henry

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[Steve Ricoh]

Thanks to all for the feedback, plenty for me to mull over.

 

At least on one occasion it was stated that 'film' is best if kept in the analogue domain, compared to digitising for convenience. That's a compelling argument. However I cannot envisage having the space to set up a permanent dark room with running water and ventilation - at least in this lifetime. I did wet processing 'end to end' when I was a teenager using my parents bathroom, but what an inconvenience that was, and I'm surprised I survived without gassing myself.

 

At best I would process film 'over the kitchen sink' and then digitise, probably limited to B&W since colour demands far greater temperature control and expense to achieve the results to do the medium justice. A major consideration for me, as I'm actually 'developing' a taste for colour photography (colour street) so would probably have to use a lab which I'm not to keen on doing.

 

One big plus though, once you have an analogue camera there's no chance of obsolescence, unlike digital, unless film itself becomes obsolete or too expensive. If I go analogue it will be to compliment my digital M, not to replace it. No other camera would do, it has to be a rangefinder and an M.

 

One comment above made me reconsider the use of eBay; if I decide to go ahead I will try and purchase from a reputable dealer who I can get some form of guarantee and recourse if the camera is defective. See, I do listen!

[mrckdavies]

Thanks to all for the feedback, plenty for me to mull over.

 

At least on one occasion it was stated that 'film' is best if kept in the analogue domain, compared to digitising for convenience. That's a compelling argument. However I cannot envisage having the space to set up a permanent dark room with running water and ventilation - at least in this lifetime. I did wet processing 'end to end' when I was a teenager using my parents bathroom, but what an inconvenience that was, and I'm surprised I survived without gassing myself.

 

At best I would process film 'over the kitchen sink' and then digitise, probably limited to B&W since colour demands far greater temperature control and expense to achieve the results to do the medium justice. A major consideration for me, as I'm actually 'developing' a taste for colour photography (colour street) so would probably have to use a lab which I'm not to keen on doing.

 

One big plus though, once you have an analogue camera there's no chance of obsolescence, unlike digital, unless film itself becomes obsolete or too expensive. If I go analogue it will be to compliment my digital M, not to replace it. No other camera would do, it has to be a rangefinder and an M.

 

One comment above made me reconsider the use of eBay; if I decide to go ahead I will try and purchase from a reputable dealer who I can get some form of guarantee and recourse if the camera is defective. See, I do listen!

Sorry Steve I have to correct you regarding temperature control for C41 processing. It's really simple. I use a small water bath at 30.5c. With Tetenal developer tolerance is +/- 1°c, the blix is +/- 3°, stabiliser is room temperature. I've never had a failure and once under developed by 2 minutes without consequence! My mistake. Seriously colour is as easy as B&W used to be. I process in my kitchen, later I can provide photos if you like.

 

Kind regards

 

Christopher

 

 

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[SilentShutter]

What are the pros and cons that I should seriously consider before hitting the buy key?

Any thoughts would be welcome to help with my decision making.

 

I am not sure to find the right words - its more philosopical - all takes more time with film

slows you down from the marry-go-round of daily trouble.

[Doc Henry]

Steve , first if you like b&w , develop yourself b&w film and secondly if you use color film do as me, Martin,

and Chris , develop also yourself , C41 process is very easy and fast (few minutes) in 30°C or 38°C.

A corner like a kitchen or a bathroom is sufficient. If you have a watering point, it is better for washes.
For the bain marie at 30°C, an electrical resistance for aquarium fish in a small basin is sufficient
Again what a pleasure to make yourself  !
The roll out to less than 2 euros and I can develop even on Sunday when all the labs are closed and with

no scratches on negative .Good work when you do yourself !

Rg

Henry

Edited January 11, 2017 by Doc Henry

[mrckdavies]

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Steve , first if you like b&w , develop yourself b&w film and secondly if you use color film do as me and Martin,

develop also yourself , C41 process is very easy and fast (some few minutes) in 30°C or 38°C.

A corner like a kitchen or a bathroom is sufficient. If you have a watering point, it is better for washes.

For the bain marie at 30°C, an electrical resistance for aquarium fish in a small basin is sufficient

Again what a pleasure to make yourself !

The roll out to less than 2 euros and I can develop even on Sunday when all the labs are closed and with

no scratches on negative .Good work when you do yourself !

Rg

Henry

Henry, I used to use a fish tank heater, but found that my water if at 30.5 in the beginning kept temperature tolerance through the whole process. My house temperature is 22°c at this time of year. I have a spare aquarium heater now - LOL.

 

Kind regards

 

Christopher

 

 

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[Doc Henry]

A recent picture developed in C41 and 30°C

 

Kodak Ektar 100

Leica M7-35 Summilux Asph

 

Le Crotoy

Sunset in "contre-jour" ("backlight")

November 2016

 

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Notice color and details are still visible in the shadows. Not the case with digital

M9

 

Best

H.

Edited January 11, 2017 by Doc Henry

[mrckdavies]

A recent picture developed in C41 and 30°C

 

Kodak Ektar 100

Leica M7-35 Summilux Asph

 

Le Crotoy

Sunset in "contre-jour" ("backlight")

November 2016

 

Image6crotoykodekta100m7la35fecbwlfht+++950bis.jpg

 

Notice color and details are still visible in the shadows. Not the case with digital

M9

 

Best

H.

Henry, that's a challenge I will give my M9 lunchtime if the sun stays out. My new sensor seems very good since it was changed out in the summer at Wetzlar.

 

Regards

Christopher

 

 

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[Paul J]

IMO, best results come from darkroom prints and from scanning photographic prints, rather than scanning film. That is more so with colour neg, fine if you're shooting transparency, but certainly a scan and inkjet is no match for a real silver print. Computer handling of colour negative is never as nice as the real thing. If you are going to go to the effort of shooting film, you should definitely go that but further in a darkroom with prints.

[Steve Ricoh]

So colour isn't such a giant leap after all, that's good to know.

What about drying film to prevent dust (the shower cubicle I've heard as one solution - run the shower for a minutes to 'mop-up' the residual airborne dust, then hang to dry, having used a wetting agent first.

And then there's the dust that's almost unavoidable when scanning - one thing I wouldn't have the patience to do is to remove dust in PP.

[Paul J]

Depending on where you live, how dusty etc, you can start by hanging them in the bathroom. That serves most people really well.

[Steve Ricoh]

IMO, best results come from darkroom prints and from scanning photographic prints, rather than scanning film. That is more so with colour neg, fine if you're shooting transparency, but certainly a scan and inkjet is no match for a real silver print. Computer handling of colour negative is never as nice as the real thing. If you are going to go to the effort of shooting film, you should definitely go that but further in a darkroom with prints.

Sounds logical. It seems (to me) to be counter intuitive to shoot film, then scan. If the end result is digital for sharing etc (and that 99% of what I do) then a digital camera must be logical. On the other hand, analogue is unrivalled for the enjoyment of seeing the latent image appear in the developing tray.

[earleygallery]

It seems (to me) to be counter intuitive to shoot film, then scan. If the end result is digital for sharing etc (and that 99% of what I do) then a digital camera must be logical.

 

I see this often but don't agree.

 

Film gives you the opportunity to make 'real' photographic prints, yes, but if you scan film you still get a final image - on screen or ink printed - which shows the characteristics of film, the colours, the grain etc. The final image still looks different to a digital camera image.

[Paul J]

Speaking of colour - Developments (no pun intended) are still happening in film and darkroom. If Kodak and the like can create at least some of the convenience and ease of digital I think they could really get some leverage with their "film comeback". Cinestill are bring out this simple 2 bath process that can work at different temperatures.

 

Processing your own color film doesn't have to be complicated or expensive! This liquid chemical, two bath processing kit can be used at a variety of temperatures with the same equipment you already process your black and white film with at home. No darkroom or automated processor required!

If you already process your own black and white film, with this kit, there is no reason you can't process your own color film at home as well! With this simplified 2 bath process, you can have beautifully developed and fixed color negatives, ready to scan or print. All you need is water, a thermometer and any simple tank and reel system!

http://cinestillfilm.com/collections/frontpage/products/preorder-cinestill-cs41-simplified-color-processing-at-home-quart-kit-c-41-chemistry

[mrckdavies]

So colour isn't such a giant leap after all, that's good to know.

What about drying film to prevent dust (the shower cubicle I've heard as one solution - run the shower for a minutes to 'mop-up' the residual airborne dust, then hang to dry, having used a wetting agent first.

And then there's the dust that's almost unavoidable when scanning - one thing I wouldn't have the patience to do is to remove dust in PP.

Steve, the stabiliser (Tetenal) is the wetting agent. It comes with the bulk c41 pack. Dust not a huge issue drying in a bathroom, I use my sensor blower with built in dust filter to blow the negs before scanning and the scanner removes the rest of the dust.

 

Regards

 

Christopher

 

 

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[Paul J]

Sounds logical. It seems (to me) to be counter intuitive to shoot film, then scan. If the end result is digital for sharing etc (and that 99% of what I do) then a digital camera must be logical. On the other hand, analogue is unrivalled for the enjoyment of seeing the latent image appear in the developing tray.

 

I've never shot digital just for the purpose of sharing, personally.

 

There are lots of reasons why you might scan a print or film. Sharing, sure. But I guess the main reason I scan prints because I have to. For the jobs I have shot film on they need to be scanned to be printed in the magazine, manipulation, point of sale posters or what ever client use they have. But even personal work I scan, I guess, mainly for sharing, but a film image is very different from a digital one and I certainly wouldn't shoot digital in place of it for that.

[mrckdavies]

Henry, that's a challenge I will give my M9 lunchtime if the sun stays out. My new sensor seems very good since it was changed out in the summer at Wetzlar.

 

Regards

Christopher

 

 

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It just occurred to me that a film camera will never suffer sensor corrosion either![emoji23]

 

 

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[Doc Henry]

It just occurred to me that a film camera will never suffer sensor corrosion either![emoji23]

 

 

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Chris .... and also no problem of moiré , aliasing (normal > square pixels) , banding , inhomogeneous in black,skin color magenta, dust or scratches on sensor, need continual monitoring and backup to the computer and hard drive , redeem expensive software quickly obsolete  etc....  and especially, edges and lines too sharp as a scalpel agressive when watching (but it is true may be corrected by software)

H.

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[mrckdavies]

Chris .... and also no problem of moiré , aliasing (normal > square pixels) , banding , inhomogeneous in black,skin color magenta, dust or scratches on sensor, need continual monitoring and backup to the computer and hard drive , redeem expensive software quickly obsolete etc.... and especially, edges and lines too sharp as a scalpel agressive when watching (but it is true may be corrected by software)

H.

Batteries - and making sure they are charged for long days in the field! The list goes on. So many advantages! I've not picked up my M9 for weeks now since nobody has demanded an immediate result.

 

Regards

 

Christopher

 

 

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