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ME in 2017


robert blu

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It looks different. Shooting at lower Iso and pushing in post seems to me more contrasty (like pushing film in processing.) Shooting higher ISO in camera lifts the shadows and blacks more. I find pushing in post a lot more realistic looking for nighttime shots, but for indoor shots when I just need little more light, I like to go to ISO 1000 (M9) and 2500 (MM) since faces start getting too contrasty with pushing. But those ISOs are my respective cut-offs and I agree with pushing from there. 

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Is a Leica ME a valid solution for an M7 shooter desiring to try a digital camera similar to his film camera? It's 2017 and the new M will be here in a short time, I know.

 

Shooting more B&W than color, interior available light (F2 - iso 400/800 - 1/30") and portrait.

 

My dealer has one at a reasonable price, one year warranty, and if I do not like it I could resell without loosing too much money...a little bit like a long term renting!

 

Concerned about sensor: how can I know if there is the new "no delaminating" sensor in it? I know in case of delamination Leica will change it but I wouldn't like to be without the camera in my testing experience time!

 

robert

 

Hi Robert!

 

I have M-E (made in 2015) and it could be operated in M4-2 (I own) style with measuring of  incident light by handheld meter and fixed ISO, it is also working in M6 style with fixed ISO and using exposure indicators in VF to adjust it, it is indeed usable as M7 with fixed ISO, shutter speed is Auto and it is usable as M-E, shutter, aperture fixed and ISO is in auto. 

 

As BW film shooter, darkroom user I'm finding bw JPEG1 M-E ISO1600 files to be perfect for pigment bw inkjet prints and ISO 2500 is absolutely usable for BW.

 

Just one warning, after getting M-E in 2016 it became much more harder to use film M for bw. :)

 

Kostya.

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A friend pointed out to me that there are websites showing how to make m240 files look like m9 files but not visa versa (YMMV)

 

 

Thanks Robert. I'll see if I can find some. I have noted the Sigma 35 art has a bit of an M9 look on the Nikon

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Many interesting answers in this thread I started thanks to all. Just let you know that the camera I was interested was sold before I could take any decision! I know, I'm slow sometimes...my fault  :)

Of course many possibilities in the net but I prefer to buy by my dealer where I can have immediate support in case of troubles. 

robert

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It looks different. Shooting at lower Iso and pushing in post seems to me more contrasty (like pushing film in processing.) Shooting higher ISO in camera lifts the shadows and blacks more. I find pushing in post a lot more realistic looking for nighttime shots, but for indoor shots when I just need little more light, I like to go to ISO 1000 (M9) and 2500 (MM) since faces start getting too contrasty with pushing. But those ISOs are my respective cut-offs and I agree with pushing from there.

 

Yes, that's true. If you're using Lightroom remember that after version 4 the exposure slider actually works on the midtons most not across all tones as you'd expect. Consequently, the effect would be that the shadows would remain relatively darker. You'd have to push the shadow slider to affect the shadows.

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I purchased my M9 a few weeks ago and its been a solid performer. Esp shadow recovery is pretty damn noiseless.

 

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