Guest NEIL-D-WILLIAMS Posted October 8, 2016 Share #1 Posted October 8, 2016 Advertisement (gone after registration) I'm currently and always have used ilford LC29 developer and that bottle is away to run out so I was thinking of trying the D76 instead What do you guys think???? I'm using fujifilm neoprene 100 and some Tmax 400 Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Advertisement Posted October 8, 2016 Posted October 8, 2016 Hi Guest NEIL-D-WILLIAMS, Take a look here L29 verses ????. I'm sure you'll find what you were looking for!
gbealnz Posted October 9, 2016 Share #2 Posted October 9, 2016 Never used D76 Neil, but many swear by it, so I'd say it will work. Gut feeling though, you've always used LC29, so why change? I'm loathed to change from what I always use (R09 in my case). By all means "try" it, but don't change, not all in, straight away. Gary Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stealth3kpl Posted October 9, 2016 Share #3 Posted October 9, 2016 I'm currently and always have used ilford LC29 developer and that bottle is away to run out so I was thinking of trying the D76 instead What do you guys think???? I'm using fujifilm neoprene 100 and some Tmax 400 You'll need to mix up your D76 24hrs before using it. Try HC110 Pete Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest NEIL-D-WILLIAMS Posted October 9, 2016 Share #4 Posted October 9, 2016 You'll need to mix up your D76 24hrs before using it. Try HC110 Pete Like Gary said............I'm going to stick with what I have been using...........no need to fix anything thats not broken? 2 Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
EoinC Posted October 9, 2016 Share #5 Posted October 9, 2016 Never used D76 Neil, but many swear by it, so I'd say it will work. Gut feeling though, you've always used LC29, so why change? I'm loathed to change from what I always use (R09 in my case). By all means "try" it, but don't change, not all in, straight away. Gary I agree with Gary, Neil. In general, I think it better minimize the variables and experiment with one developer until you find it cannot deliver what you are after. You're likely to get more variation in properties by changing time / dilution / agitation / temperature, than by changing developer, unless LC29 really doesn't give you the results you like. Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
otto.f Posted October 9, 2016 Share #6 Posted October 9, 2016 I used LC29 and D76 and HC110. In my view LC29 is very much like HC110, but as I mostly work with TriX, Kodak's HC110 feels more logica to me. I prefer both developers much above D76 because they are very stable, predictable and linear. I had too often unexpected and unlogical results with D76, probably also because it's a powder ( which has more health risks too). Many labs work with it but these are large volumes, in the home dark room I think HC110 or LC29 is much more reliable. I would prefer X-Tol above D76, which is a bit comparable, but much more environment friendly. Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
otto.f Posted October 9, 2016 Share #7 Posted October 9, 2016 Advertisement (gone after registration) Sorry for the typo: L29 I meant Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
NB23 Posted October 10, 2016 Share #8 Posted October 10, 2016 D76 is the classic's classic. Everyone should try it at least once. Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
fotohuis Posted November 6, 2016 Share #9 Posted November 6, 2016 The difference with LC29-HC110 and D76 is that D76 gives just a tick less grain. Compared with Xtol this developer will give the finest grain with box speed. It is very suitable to use it with TMY-2 - Tmax 400. Using TMY-2 with LC29-HC110 you will loose about 1/3F stop in speed so you have to expose on iso 320. In general a liquid concentrate is more handy and less dangerous to use then any powder type developer. D76 is from 1927 and it is containing a lot of Hydroquinon which is cancer suspected in higher concentrates. Xtol is a modern type developer and much less toxid. About life span both LC29-HC110 you can store it for about 3-4 years. Only the R09/Rodinal concentrate has a better life span of about 5 years. In powder you can store it for a very long time, however when making the stock solution most developers are limited up from 4 months to maximum a year and half (e.g. Diafine) in a full bottle. When making your own developer up from scratch you can make smaller volumes or for some recepts you can dissolve in an alcohol (Glycol) or TEA like Pyrocat-HD© (Sandy King) or PC-TEA (Pat Gainer). These type developers you can keep at least 2 years. PC-TEA you can use 1+75 instead of Xtol 1+2 data and Pyrocat-HDC 1+1+100 is one of the finest type Pyro developers. However the biggest disadvantage is that every Pyro type developer is very toxid. In a liquid form it is not that dangerous anymore. Due to the stain Pyrocat-HDC suppresses the grain and it gives very sharp negatives at almost box speed. 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
250swb Posted November 7, 2016 Share #10 Posted November 7, 2016 My first choice for TMax 400 wouldn't be an old style developer such as D76 or HC110 or Pyro formulas. For both types of film I'd use Ilford DD-X which suits the grain of TMax specifically and also does very well with Neopan. Save the D78, Pyro, and HC110 for HP5 and FP4 style films, in fact I wouldn't use anything other than Pyro. 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
fotohuis Posted November 7, 2016 Share #11 Posted November 7, 2016 The advantage of TMY-2 and HC-110 is a very long linear logD curve. No idea how that is with DD-X. DD-X has been especially made for the ilford Delta films however they use another technology then Kodak for their Tgrain type films. 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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