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The need for screen calibration


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Hi,

I know it's a subject that was quite covered but I want an update from actual devices and the needs of calibration on new macs.

Do you use these devices regularly?

What do you recommend for a macbook+external screen?

Is it really needed to have a retina macbook pro calibrated or maybe the osx software manual expert calibration is just enough?

Thanks much.

Emanuele

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Monitor calibration (and other monitor characteristics) can be especially helpful for those who want 'accurate' and predictable print results.  There are many aspects involved, as described here.....

 

http://www.cambridgeincolour.com/tutorials/monitor-calibration.htm

 

I'll leave it to others to comment on the Mac screens.  I currently use NEC, and prefer either those or Eizo screens, which are more expensive.  Surface glare, colors, contrast, tonal rendering and separation, among other characteristics, often weigh into one's preferences, not just calibration.  

 

While I think a quality monitor is very important in a disciplined print workflow, there are many variables associated with achieving high quality prints, especially the user's own capabilities and techniques.  Printing is not plug and play.  Calibration is just one step that can help to simplify the process by maintaining consistency and predictability, particularly when combined with soft-proofing.  

 

Jeff

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As a longtime user of Mac computers, they have made significant progress in their resolution capabilities, as well as the range of colors that can be displayed depending upon the color spaces being used in capture or editing (i.e., sRGB, AdobeRGB or ProPhotoRGB).  However, the calibration offered up by the OS software is not capable of accurately calibrating the monitor of your MacBook Pro's attached retina display or an external one.  The only way to achieve an accurate calibration for color management purposes is to use one of the more accurate external ones.  I use the excellent & reasonably priced one made by X-rite called the ColorMunki. 

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It also depends on what you do with your photos.  If you want accurate prints, you have to color manage at every step - camera, monitor, and printer.  This also applies to a scanner if you are using one for film.  If you just show your photos on others computers (web) or on TVs, the other devices won't be accurate either so you don't need to color manage.  Expanding a little on Jeff's comments, very few monitors are made for graphics use - certain NEC, Eizo Color Guard / Color Edge, and certain Dells.  They have one thing in common - cost.

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It also depends on what you do with your photos.  If you want accurate prints, you have to color manage at every step - camera, monitor, and printer.  This also applies to a scanner if you are using one for film.  If you just show your photos on others computers (web) or on TVs, the other devices won't be accurate either so you don't need to color manage.  Expanding a little on Jeff's comments, very few monitors are made for graphics use - certain NEC, Eizo Color Guard / Color Edge, and certain Dells.  They have one thing in common - cost.

After many of us spending a small fortune ( or big fortune) on Leica cameras and lenses. Even if not printing It can not make sense to not calibrating our monitor (s). The Spyder and Colour Munki are one of the cheapest devices we are likely to buy and will last for years.one of the cheaper monitors will never be as good as an Eizo but at least calibrating it will help get the best from it. If making a print is the end result then a calibration device is essential to get consistent results. It will probably pay for itself over a few years in not wasting paper.

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OS software does only a fair job.   Perhaps close enough for most.  Holding down a key and using F1 and F2  to brighten and darken will make it move in very fine increments so you can get it to exactly 180 candles.   I can`t find the key right now. Option + Shift + F1 or 2

 

Invest in an Eizo color Edge screen and it comes with proper software.   I used a color rite to calibrate the first time, thereafter is does it on its own at the interval you specify.   You need a dark room just as you need a dark room to color correct.

 

Poor man option is Whi bal card,  click with WB tool and you get 128,128, 128 RGB.   You will notice screen brightness will not change the read out, only how it appears.   So now make it look right with F1 & 2.   use the  histogram so you do not clip.   I did this for years and it worked pretty well,  as well as calibrating my Mac Screen.  Eizo is only a little better.

 

Screen brightness never change the RGB reading of any color, only brightness appearance.  Turn on the clipping in ACR or LR and you will be 90% of the way there

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