chioque Posted October 4, 2016 Share #1 Posted October 4, 2016 Advertisement (gone after registration) Hi, I'm from Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia. I bought my M7 about 5 years back used from a seller from the US, and it was as good as he described. However, yesterday midway through a 36-roll film, whilst out shooting, I couldn't seem to advance the frames. It became stuck. Brought the camera to a repair shop and they said it could be the electronics. Batteries are all fresh. Leica doesn't have any repair shops here in Malaysia and all repairs are sent to Singapore and most were sent to Germany by the Singapore centre. I have visited their Leica shop here in Kuala Lumpur, and they confirmed that the camera will be sent to Singapore and after about 2/3 weeks they will revert with the estimated repair costs. I don't think mine is under warranty Appreciate if someone has any experience of jammed shutter on the M7 or knows someone with similar issue, can advise me as to the best course of action. Should I try contacting Solms directly, as most likely the repair will be sent to Germany, anyway by Singapore? Or is there anyone of refute who is expert in Leica repairs who can diagnose the issue I can liaise with? Really appreciate your advice or opinions. Thank you. Mansur Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Advertisement Posted October 4, 2016 Posted October 4, 2016 Hi chioque, Take a look here Servicing Jammed M7 Shutter - seeking advice. I'm sure you'll find what you were looking for!
chioque Posted October 4, 2016 Author Share #2 Posted October 4, 2016 (edited) I have another observation, the shutter will not work unless the speed is the 1/60 or 1/125. Could it mean, either (i) connection of the batteries is the problem ie. bad contacts, or (ii) the electronic shutter problem? Anyone? Edited October 4, 2016 by chioque Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Soden Posted October 4, 2016 Share #3 Posted October 4, 2016 (edited) Have you actually tested the batteries? Or are you assuming that because you recently changed them, they are good. I often get a few bad batteries when I buy from a regular store as the inventory turn over is not great on this type of battery. Also since I live in China I expect cheap Chinese batteries to die quickly. It might be a good idea to invest in a high quality battery tester. I had this exact problem. If the shutter works at the two manual speeds, it's not likely the shutter. Have you checked the contacts for corrosion or a battery leak? Humidity can cause issues to batteries, contacts, electronics, and optics. Edited October 4, 2016 by Soden Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
chioque Posted October 4, 2016 Author Share #4 Posted October 4, 2016 (edited) Have you actually tested the batteries? Or are you assuming that because you recently changed them, they are good. I often get a few bad batteries when I buy from a regular store as the inventory turn over is not great on this type of battery. Also since I live in China I expect cheap Chinese batteries to die quickly. It might be a good idea to invest in a high quality battery tester. I had this exact problem. If the shutter works at the two manual speeds, it's not likely the shutter. Have you checked the contacts for corrosion or a battery leak? Humidity can cause issues to batteries, contacts, electronics, and optics. Yes I have checked the batteries. They are all showing 3V using the multimeters. I have used 3 pairs of new Duracell 1/3N batteries with 2020 expiry dates. The cameras switches on, all right. It displays, at start, the ISO of the back dial (no film) when I switch the camera on. I can use 1/60 & 1/125 no problem. But whenever I use other speeds, it acts like bulb setting, i.e. the only way to cock the shutter is by turning the speed dial to either 1/60 or 1/125. Does it mean the mechanical shutter is fine, but there's something wrong with the electronic shutter? I have also tried to clean the batteries and back electrical contacts. Edited October 4, 2016 by chioque Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Soden Posted October 4, 2016 Share #5 Posted October 4, 2016 (edited) Firstly, there is only one shutter. It's how the shutter is controlled that appears to be the issue. Electronically controlled shutter is supposed to be more accurate than mechanical. In China, it's almost impossible to get 1/3N, in fact on my last trip to the states I could not find even in the large electronic stores. I had to order via amazon. So based on what you are telling me, there's no point in asking if the batteries are Chinese Duracell as they are not the same quality. It's possible that the shutter control circuit board died, but it's pretty rare that a circuit board goes out of its own accord. Usually there is some external factor. I had a M9 that had the sensor problem. I check with solms to see if I could send the camera directly to them, but they said it had to go to the Chinese service center as I live in China. But the Chinese service center does not fully respect the Leica warranty. So I had to take it back to the states and had it sent to New Jersey instead. Edited October 4, 2016 by Soden Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doc Henry Posted October 4, 2016 Share #6 Posted October 4, 2016 (edited) Mansur, I think it's electronic failure.Send a mail to "Customer Service Solms" and describe your problem. For your information, only the speed "control" is electronic which is operated by electro magnet .The cloth focal shutter itself remains unchanged as M6. http://us.leica-camera.com/Service-Support/Repair-Maintenance Good luck Best H. Edited October 4, 2016 by Doc Henry Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
earleygallery Posted October 4, 2016 Share #7 Posted October 4, 2016 Advertisement (gone after registration) From the Leica website; "What’s more, the two commonly used shutter speeds of 1/60 sec and 1/125 sec can even function without battery power" There is obviously some failure of the electrics - if you're certain that you've tried good batteries, cleaned the contacts etc. then you are best taking it to a Leica repairer for attention. Out of interest do you see the led's in the viewfinder? (that will confirm the batteries are good and power is getting through at least). Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Soden Posted October 4, 2016 Share #8 Posted October 4, 2016 (edited) Mansur, I think it's electronic failure.Send a mail to "Customer Service Solms" and describe your problem. For your information, only the speed "control" is electronic which is operated by electro magnet .The cloth focal shutter itself remains unchanged as M6. http://us.leica-camera.com/Service-Support/Repair-Maintenance Good luck Best H. While I have to agree with your prognosis Doc, I am moved to ask the question. How does a electromagnetically controlled shutter work without electricity? The shutter has two failsafe speeds as mentioned but obviously there must be some override when in normal use, so there must be some mechanical force to operate those two speeds in absence of electromagnetic force. P.S. The OP did mention during my inquiry that the LED do function, only the shutter malfunctions. Edited October 4, 2016 by Soden Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doc Henry Posted October 4, 2016 Share #9 Posted October 4, 2016 (edited) Soden look at this link about electro magnet and shutter http://leica.nemeng.com/002bb.shtml That said the M7 apart the problem of Mansur is a very good camerathe fastest of all M according to Raymond Depardon Magnum agency photographer who has a M7 Henry Edited October 4, 2016 by Doc Henry Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
chioque Posted October 4, 2016 Author Share #10 Posted October 4, 2016 (edited) I can confirm the LED works when switching on, as well as when metering. What doesn't work is choosing shutter speeds (including AUTO) other than 60 and 250. For the other speeds I can press the shutter, but i cannot andvance the lever/ cock the shutter unless I turn the speed dial to the 2 mechanical ones. Edited October 4, 2016 by chioque Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Soden Posted October 5, 2016 Share #11 Posted October 5, 2016 Soden look at this link about electro magnet and shutter http://leica.nemeng.com/002bb.shtml That said the M7 apart the problem of Mansur is a very good camera the fastest of all M according to Raymond Depardon Magnum agency photographer who has a M7 Henry Doc, it's exactly as I said, to quote your article "The M7 has exactly the same shutter curtain, drum and brake assembly as the M6(TTL). Only the shutter-speed governing mechanism was changed, with it being EPROM and electro-mechanically controlled now. Mind you, some gears have been retained, to govern the 1/60 and 1/125 backup speeds. A direct benefit of the new electro-mechanical design is that for the first time an M's "1/1000th" is a true 1/1000th and not 1/700th! An obvious disadvantage however is that when the batteries die, so too does the camera (ahem, except for the 1/60th and 1/125th backup speeds)." The gears provide mechanical power to the shutter, as no power is available. As for speaking on the ownership of a M7. I bought mine in 2008 as a backup to my then M8. It was the M7 that convinced me to go fully with full frame when the M9 shipped. The M7 is the only body that has stayed with me all these years. It's an older unit with a M6 viewfinder and electronic DX sensor. I looked at upgrading it, but decided it would be cheaper to buy a newer unit. So in the end I did something crazy and bought a M5. So far the only issue I have had with the M7 is how to keep a good set of batteries available in whatever country I am in, and I don't consider that to be the cameras fault, just my absent mindedness. The M7 may not be my most used camera, but it's one I'll never let go of. 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doc Henry Posted October 5, 2016 Share #12 Posted October 5, 2016 Doc, it's exactly as I said, to quote your article "The M7 has exactly the same shutter curtain, drum and brake assembly as the M6(TTL). Only the shutter-speed governing mechanism was changed, with it being EPROM and electro-mechanically controlled now. Mind you, some gears have been retained, to govern the 1/60 and 1/125 backup speeds. A direct benefit of the new electro-mechanical design is that for the first time an M's "1/1000th" is a true 1/1000th and not 1/700th! An obvious disadvantage however is that when the batteries die, so too does the camera (ahem, except for the 1/60th and 1/125th backup speeds)." The gears provide mechanical power to the shutter, as no power is available. As for speaking on the ownership of a M7. I bought mine in 2008 as a backup to my then M8. It was the M7 that convinced me to go fully with full frame when the M9 shipped. The M7 is the only body that has stayed with me all these years. It's an older unit with a M6 viewfinder and electronic DX sensor. I looked at upgrading it, but decided it would be cheaper to buy a newer unit. So in the end I did something crazy and bought a M5. So far the only issue I have had with the M7 is how to keep a good set of batteries available in whatever country I am in, and I don't consider that to be the cameras fault, just my absent mindedness. The M7 may not be my most used camera, but it's one I'll never let go of. Soden thanks for your post. Don't forget to share with us your film pictures here. http://www.l-camera-forum.com/topic/205842-i-like-filmopen-thread/page-1108 1108 pages of film pictures Best Henry Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Soden Posted October 5, 2016 Share #13 Posted October 5, 2016 Soden thanks for your post. Don't forget to share with us your film pictures here. http://www.l-camera-forum.com/topic/205842-i-like-filmopen-thread/page-1108 1108 pages of film pictures Best Henry Doc There in lies the problem with my work flow. My darkroom is in America and I am in China. I do have a portable darkroom here but I can only process the negatives. I have had issues with scanning. The only film processor here uses a Fuji scanner and the output is beyond horrid. I have tried a few scanners, and found either they did a poor job, took forever or weren't portable. A few months ago I picked up a Leica copy stand. I'm hoping that I can use my M240/6 to scan, but I have not had time to try. I have a large backlog of unprocessed or processed/unscanned film. Film is fun but to do it right, it does take time. 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
pico Posted October 5, 2016 Share #14 Posted October 5, 2016 (edited) I have tried a few scanners, and found either they did a poor job, took forever or weren't portable. A few months ago I picked up a Leica copy stand. I'm hoping that I can use my M240/6 to scan, but I have not had time to try. You might also consider a classic Vidoflex slide/film strip copier on your digital Leica. Others can probably give more specifics. Edited October 5, 2016 by pico Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Soden Posted October 5, 2016 Share #15 Posted October 5, 2016 You might also consider a classic Vidoflex slide/film strip copier on your digital Leica. Others can probably give more specifics. Well the one I have is the BEOON, I have not seen a Visoflex slide/film strip copier... so if anybody has more info, please speak up! Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
gbealnz Posted October 5, 2016 Share #16 Posted October 5, 2016 Use the BEOON, I dd for quite a while, and it works a treat. I now use a Plustek, but the BEOON is superb, with most lenses, I used a 50mm Summicron M, as well as a few enlarger lenses. The beauty was I could easily do M/F slides as well. Gary 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
EoinC Posted October 5, 2016 Share #17 Posted October 5, 2016 Chioque - Have a look through the Clubsnap site in Singapore. There are a few threads on Leica repairs. It may be worth checking with Philip Tay, as I have seen him mentioned several times for CLA work. In this thread, the unit was sent to DAG in the USA with a fairly short turnaround: http://www.clubsnap.com/forums/showthread.php?t=205967 There is also a repair man down in Melbourne (check the threads in the M-section of this forum). 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
chioque Posted October 5, 2016 Author Share #18 Posted October 5, 2016 (edited) Chioque - Have a look through the Clubsnap site in Singapore. There are a few threads on Leica repairs. It may be worth checking with Philip Tay, as I have seen him mentioned several times for CLA work. In this thread, the unit was sent to DAG in the USA with a fairly short turnaround: http://www.clubsnap.com/forums/showthread.php?t=205967 There is also a repair man down in Melbourne (check the threads in the M-section of this forum). Thanks for the pointers. I have perused through ClubSnap as well before coming here. But I have already sent in my camera to Leica here and from what they inform me, will be sent for servicing in SIngapore. And if SIngapore cannot do it, it'll be sent to Solms. Keeping my fingers crossed the costs will be reasonable. Mansur Edited October 5, 2016 by chioque 2 Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
wlaidlaw Posted October 6, 2016 Share #19 Posted October 6, 2016 (edited) Do the LED lights dim, when you try to use the shutter at a speed other than 1/60 or 1/125? I had problems with my Contax RTS2 and RX, which both had electronically controlled shutters. I found the problem was dry soldered joints on the battery compartment plus slight corrosion of the power switch, which for a left eye shooter, sits right in front of your nose, getting breathed on. Although the cameras would start, there was not enough current getting through to control the shutter. You could see the LED/LCD's dim when the shutter tried to fire. The RX also would not operate its power winder. Wilson Edited October 6, 2016 by wlaidlaw Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Soden Posted October 6, 2016 Share #20 Posted October 6, 2016 Use the BEOON, I dd for quite a while, and it works a treat. I now use a Plustek, but the BEOON is superb, with most lenses, I used a 50mm Summicron M, as well as a few enlarger lenses. The beauty was I could easily do M/F slides as well. Gary I'm going to try the 50 APO Summicron. I have an older plustek, my lawn grows faster. 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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