Adapter or lens problem: Canon 35mm LTM

[asimplefarmer]

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I have the rare 35mm f1.5 LTM. I have a cheap Chinese adapter (which I'm assuming is the problem). The lens focuses fine on my 7s but adapted on my m240, I have to focus a bit to the left of the RF patch to get it in focus. My 28 elmarit and 50 planar focus fine on the M.

 

So should I shell out $75 for a camera quest adapter?

Edited September 24, 2016 by asimplefarmer

[jankap]

Your lens has an infinity lock? See the knob at 10 o´clock.

 

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In that case you need an adapter with a cut-out. You should search for a Leica IRZOO adapter.

In the picture one can (perhaps) read "28-50".

 

 

I use the older type with the text "M2 50 --- M3 28-50" for my Canon 28mm.

Jan

Edited September 24, 2016 by jankap

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[vanGeist]

I have the rare 35mm f1.5 LTM. I have a cheap Chinese adapter (which I'm assuming is the problem). The lens focuses fine on my 7s but adapted on my m240, I have to focus a bit to the left of the RF patch to get it in focus. My 28 elmarit and 50 planar focus fine on the M.

 

So should I shell out $75 for a camera quest adapter?

First, get either a Leica adapter, a Voigtländer adapter or a Novoflex adapter. Cheap adapters are often the root of the problem when focus errors occur. I highly recommend to get one of the mentioned adapters, that may solve the case. If that does not help, you may think about getting a CLA for you lens.

[TomB_tx]

While the 7s has basically the same flange to "sensor" distance as a digital M, film behaves differently, both by having some thickness to the light sensitive layer (while a digital sensor is much more a single plane), and by having some flex or bulge to the film plane. So lens focus tolerance on film is not as critical as digital.

While most of my film-era lenses (both Leitz and Canon LTM) are "fine" on M digital, when looking really critically they could be tuned to do better at a given aperture.

Almost all fast film era lenses (the 35 1.5 qualifies) have some focus shift to the rear as they are stopped down. Many lenses were factory set to have perfect focus one to two stops closed from wide open, so they shift slightly forward wide open and slightly back stopped further down, rather than shifting all one direction from perfect focus. On film this isn't noticed, but digital is more critical. 

Don Goldberg noted two of my 1950s 50 Summicrons were perfect at f 2.8, just as designed to be. If changed to be perfect wide open they would not be as good stopped down.

While it could be your adapter, it also may just be a characteristic of the lens used on digital.

You should do a careful focus test of the lens at different apertures and distances to see how it might shift. IF you always use it wide open, it could be adjusted for that, but if you most often use it stopped down some, it should be set for best average focus.

Don Goldberg can calibrate most lenses if they need adjusting, and has had fast turn-around lately.

[jaapv]

Your lens has an infinity lock? See the knob at 10 o´clock.

 

35elmar35.jpg

 

In that case you need an adapter with a cut-out. You should search for a Leica IRZOO adapter.

In the picture one can (perhaps) read "28-50".

 

Unknown.jpeg

 

I use the older type with the text "M2 50 --- M3 28-50" for my Canon 28mm.

Jan

An old cut-out one will give "no lens attached" problems. The infinity lock on this lens is well clear of the mount, so it can use a modern adapter.

[asimplefarmer]

I appreciate all the answers. I ordered a new adapter from camera quest. hopefully that'll solve my problem, if not, the lens off to get CLA'd

 

its such a sharp lens, even starting at f2