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Age vs Serial Number


pridbor

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I talked to Sherry Krauter today, and she basically told me, that it would not be cost beneficial to fix neither an R3 nor an R4, and lucky me that's my situation!!!! I might soon know if my R4 is working correctly, as I have another test roll in for development, so I still have a small hope that it will work out.

 

So my R3 has probably met it's end of life, after 40 years in my service, and I will soon start looking for preferably an R9. I was therefore wondering if somebody could point me to a place/table where I could read an R9's age from it's serial number?

 

And BTW what timeframe were they produced in?

 

Thanks in advance

 

Preben

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You may want to consider browsing eBay for a replacement R3 and R4.  I've picked up several like new bodies recently for bargain basement prices, from Leicaflexes through the R8 and everything in between.  All have worked just fine, and after replacing the light seals, have tested 100% with film.

 

It is my understanding that one should stay above the 16xxxxx serial number for the R4 (a google search will find a Leica page that discusses the serial number ranges to avoid.  I think it might be a Camerapedia page).  You can avoid the electrical problem of some R4's by getting an R4s.

 

The R8 is a marvelous camera, and I am on the lookout for an attractively priced R9 just to complete the Leica collection.

 

Best wishes and good luck in finding your next Leica - I would concur with the prohibitive cost of a repair - much easier on the wallet to just purchase an underused body - give new life to a beautiful camera.

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Steven,

 

when you buy these R3R4 do you buy from Private or Photoshops, or don't care? And do you request the serial number?

 

Regarding seals, where do you get them from? I have used seals from Jon Goodman, bought them maybe 5 years ago and only applied them during this last month, and now I tried to find him via Google and have failed so far. Great designs which don't need gluing.

 

My luck has it that I'm approx. 2000 numbers below your serial number limit for the R4! I have a film in for development so hopefully this coming week will tell if it wil be good to go.

 

Thanks for you inputs

 

Preben

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Jon Goodman still sells his seal kits - I got one for a Pentax a short while ago. I'll find his eMail and PM you.

The R4 I bought new is also a lower serial number, and is still doing fine. It had trouble with the mode dial not making good contact when selecting modes some years back. At that time I asked Jon if he'd had seals for them, and he didn't, so I sent him my R4 so he could create kits for them. When he returned it the mode dial was fixed!

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Preben, for seals I use self stick felt that is available in 8x10 sheets from craft stores, about $1 per sheet, which will do several cameras.  Cut it to size with a razor blade knife.  If I need something a little thicker, then 8x10 sheets of foam are available in different thicknesses (2mm, 6mm) from the same craft store for about the same price.  Also WalMart carries similiar items.

 

For seals in the narrow light traps on the bodies, I use 4 ply 100% wool yarn, also available from craft stores.  Usually there is enough remaining adhesive in the channels so that I don't need to use glue, but if I do, I use a flexible adhesive such as Pliobond applied with the blade of a small (think jeweler's screwdrivers) flat bladed screwdriver (toothpicks really don't work as well).

 

For mirror bumpers, which the Leica's don't use or need, either the foam or the felt works.

 

The first body you do will make you a little tense.  As you become more experienced, it will become quite natural and a pleasant experience to refresh your camera bodies.

 

By the way, I use a solid piece of the foam to completely block out the film speed viewing port on the camera back.  That original foam stuff is generally a sticky goo.  By completely blocking it off, I have never had a light leak using near infrared film.  I use the film speed dial on the body to tell me what film I have loaded.  Since I load my film from bulk rolls, the window wouldn't be of much use to me anyway.

 

As to where I purchase, it is always online, either from a forum posting or eBay, and as long as there is a return guarantee period, I don't care if it is a dealer or an individual - I have bought from both.  RARELY have I had ANY issue with my purchases, and if I have had, the seller has ALWAYS made it right.  If I cannot see the serial number on the pictures, I do ask for it.

 

There is nothing wrong with the seals from John Goodman.  I have heard nothing but good things about them.  I just prefer to make my own - it's entertaining and you get the satisfaction of doing it yourself.  Of course, if you mess it up, then it is on you - BUT you can always remove it and cut another strip.

Edited by StephenT
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... 

The R8 is a marvelous camera, and I am on the lookout for an attractively priced R9 just to complete the Leica collection.

...

Exactly my thought. The R8 weighs about 100g more than the R9, but that is the only functional difference AFAIK.

It sells for not even half the price of the R9 and is much easier to find.

Advantage of these two models compared to the other R's:

- best view finder and focus screens I ever saw in a refelex camera

- times up to 1/8000 which stay accurate because they are electronic

- possibility to turn it into a digital camera with the DMR. This is of course not cheap and very hard to find.

...

Same story as with the R4. If it breaks something major, it is total loss. That is why the R8 might be the better solution compared to the R9.

 

An other option might be the R6 or R6.2. Fully mechanical, and a step up from the R4. It might need a CLA though, certainly if you want to shoot color slides. But it will probably outlive any R8 or R9, just like a M3 will outlive my Leica M9 for sure... All electronics will be useless in 40 years time, and my M3 will then be 100 years old, but repairable in the unlikely case that anything breaks inside.

That brings us to the major advantage of the R6 over the other R's. Its parts are mechanical, so easily repaired (or easier to repair) in comparison to some motherboard part or electronical connector of the other R's

 

e.g. One of my R8's has a broken center light sensor. That makes it the perfect manual mode camera, but working in A,T or P mode is impossible now because light readings are far off. Of course replacing the light seensor means replacing the motherboard, so...

If you are interessted in a manual mode only R8, let me know :)

Edited by dpitt
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Exactly my thought. The R8 weighs about 100g more than the R9, but that is the only functional difference AFAIK.

It sells for not even half the price of the R9 and is much easier to find.

Advantage of these two models compared to the other R's:

- best view finder and focus screens I ever saw in a refelex camera

- times up to 1/8000 which stay accurate because they are electronic

- possibility to turn it into a digital camera with the DMR. This is of course not cheap and very hard to find.

...

Same story as with the R4. If it breaks something major, it is total loss. That is why the R8 might be the better solution compared to the R9.

 

An other option might be the R6 or R6.2. Fully mechanical, and a step up from the R4. It might need a CLA though, certainly if you want to shoot color slides. But it will probably outlive any R8 or R9, just like a M3 will outlive my Leica M9 for sure... All electronics will be useless in 40 years time, and my M3 will then be 100 years old, but repairable in the unlikely case that anything breaks inside.

That brings us to the major advantage of the R6 over the other R's. Its parts are mechanical, so easily repaired (or easier to repair) in comparison to some motherboard part or electronical connector of the other R's

 

e.g. One of my R8's has a broken center light sensor. That makes it the perfect manual mode camera, but working in A,T or P mode is impossible now because light readings are far off. Of course replacing the light seensor means replacing the motherboard, so...

If you are interessted in a manual mode only R8, let me know :)

 

The weight difference is not the only functional difference between the R8 and the R9; there are other (albeit relatively small) differences which may or may not be significant for the user. I have both cameras, and do prefer the R9. If the differences don't matter to you, then the R8 is a possibility, but do explore the extra features of the R9 before deciding. There has been a number of reports of problems with the meter  cells of the R8, as these cameras age, and the repair involves replacing a lot of the body - arguably not economical. For that reason alone I would buy a second hand R9 and pay the extra.

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I'm currently in no hurry to make the decision, as I cross finger for my R4 to be OK. Should know the results in the next few days. If it's not then the situation changes a bit. I'm heading back to Switzerland in about 2 weeks there's a great photo shop in Konstanz (Germany) where they have a bunch of used Leica lenses and cameras, and they seem to know their stuff.

 

Dpitt, you mention the R6, am I to understand that it's entirely mechanical??? And the 6.2 too?.. I have noticed that when there's one of those for sale they are generally more expensive than the other Rs, except for the R9.

 

I have no problem with the extra weight of the R8, but my simple thinking was that the R9 is a more recent camera and thus hopefully giving less problems due to age, but I just guessing.

 

Thanks all for your advice and responses

 

Preben

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