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Critical Focusing on film cameras?


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Hi, I have the Nikon F2 but I'm thinking of replacing it for one of the Leicas since they are a lot more compact. But are there any ways to make focusing easier on RFs, especially when compared to the F2's viewfinder?

 

 

Easier? In what way? They are two different systems... you either like it or hate it. I prefer both for different reasons. Focussing a Rangefinder is easy and doesn't need you to judge sharpness yourself, you just align the lines in a composition (for example the pupil of someones eye) and you're good to expose. 

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I've used both SLRs and Leica M models since the 1960s. A good rangefinder is easier and faster to focus in dim light, with wide to normal lenses, and at moderate distances (~10 ft and closer). SLR easier with long lenses in good light. I find 90 mm about equal on both.

Ultra wides (21mm) require an accessory VF on Leica M, and are limited on close focus by the RF mechanism, and with their DOF focus isn't as critical, so I prefer SLR for these.

Most of my work is 28-90 mm, and that's where I much prefer RF.

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Hi, I have the Nikon F2 but I'm thinking of replacing it for one of the Leicas since they are a lot more compact. But are there any ways to make focusing easier on RFs, especially when compared to the F2's viewfinder?

 

 

 

You can get lenses with a focus tab and focus by feel - no need to even look at the camera.

 

In general use I find the Leica easier to focus in all light than my Nikon FE (not as bright as the F2 I understand). The only way to know is to try one for a week and see if you like it.

 

If you're just after something more compact, who not a smaller lighter Nikon body? In my opinion (for what its worth) you get a RF camera not for compactness, but because of the RF.

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Don't replace your F2. Maybe buy a Leica M2 and lens and see how you get on. If you can't afford to do that buy a Zorki.

 

However from your question you imply that you've tried a Leica and found it difficult to focus with, in which case maybe consider an AF system instead?

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For what it's worth, I found switching to an M3 harder to focus. . . Yet interestingly, had fewer out of focus shots than with my slr.

 

And then I discovered it was easier to focus the M3 after cleaning the glass bits with lens tissue.

 

I'm persuaded that range finder photography is a more satisfying way to go for most purposes I require. I recommend reading up a bit on the unique merits of range findery so you can give a bit more studied attention when you try in next.

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when the lens is wide enough, hyperfocal focus, then just use the external finder to frame the shot. 

 

Where I find SLR focusing superior is when you shooting with long lenses at a wide aperture and want to selective focus. Harder to do on a RF when the focus patch and the area earmarked for that focal length are essentially the same.

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I'm not familiar with F2 so I'm not sure which focusing screen the camera has but I'm assuming it has a split image centre? If that's the case, and you're used to using that then you shouldn't have any trouble with a rangefinder, the method is essentially the same, you just line up two lines.

 

If your F2 just had a micro prism focusing screen you are going to love a rangefinder. I spent the day using a Mamiya SLR with micro prism screen, it it a lot slower than a rangefinder.

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Definitely don't sell your F2, it can do things a Leica can't do. As for focusing a Leica rangefinder there is nothing scary about it, you adapt as you would with any camera. The hardest thing to initially master is the focus ring on the lens turns in the opposite direction from Nikon! That's about it for difficulty, with familiarity you could use both side by side in the traditional photojournalist style of Nikon for tele lenses and Leica for wides.

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Perhaps I've misunderstood the question but for very critical focus, esp with longer lenses, you can use viewfinder magnifiers (Leica's or other brands).

I tried magnifiers and the drawback is that they dim the view, but I only need them in

low light which exacerbates the situation.

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Another point to make is that, in the majority of cases, with film one doesnt need to obsess over critical 100% spot on focus. the 3D'ness of film will help skooth things over and create reasonable sharpness even without 100% spot on, as evident by the "tits" in the focusing patch of the M3.

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Hello Adam,

 

The purpose of the cut out "notches" in the range/viewfinders of later M3's & all M2's is to indicate to 50mm lens users what is marked on the lens barrels of 50mm lensas, as: "Within acceptable focus."

 

Without the photographer having to remove their eye from the range/viewfinder.

 

The narrower "notch" is for 50mm lenses set at F5.6.

 

The wider "notch" is for when the same 50mm lens is set at F11.

 

Best Regards,

 

Michael

Edited by Michael Geschlecht
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Hello Again Everybody,

 

While on the topic of Depth Of Field:

 

Everyone knows that what is called "depth of field" is in fact, in reality, an acceptable illusion. Since there is only 1 plane of "best" focus. All of the other planes of focus which are in front of or behind the plane of best focus & which are parallel to the image capture plane: Are in some degree of: Less than "best" focus.

 

To make sharper photos: Some people set the apertures of their lenses to be either 1 or 2 stops SMALLER than the depth of field markings indicate when they are doing certain types of photos.

 

Example:

 

The scene that someone has focused within has a number of objects that the photographer wants to capture as acceptably sharp images in front of & behind the image plane focused on. Before taking the photo: By focusing on the nearest & the furthest.objects of interest & looking at how far they are from the image plane: The person sees that the depth of field scale says that they have to use an F Stop of F4 in order that all of the near & the far objects of interest will be rendered as acceptably "sharp" on both sides of the plane of focus.

 

A higher standard of sharpness can be attained by using a +1 stop SMALLER aperture: F5.6 with the exposure increased appropriately.

 

Some  people do this as a regular measure to get a sharper than usual image within the planes of focus that are most important.

 

Some people use +2 stops SMALLER aperture, F8, as the aperture to have, in order to have an even sharper image within the planes of focus considered most important. With the exposure increased appropriately.

 

Best Regards,

 

Michael

Edited by Michael Geschlecht
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From the M2 manual which I think has the same DOF gauge.

attachicon.gifIMG_1617.JPG

Hello Adam,

 

The purpose of the cut out "notches" in the range/viewfinders of later M3's & all M2's is to indicate to 50mm lens users what is marked on the lens barrels of 50mm lensas, as: "Within acceptable focus."

 

Without the photographer having to remove their eye from the range/viewfinder.

 

The narrower "notch" is for 50mm lenses set at F5.6.

 

The wider "notch" is for when the same 50mm lens is set at F11.

 

Best Regards,

 

Michael

Yes, this is exactly what i was referring to. One can tell by the "wiggle room" of the focus throw within the tit that there is a reasonable degree of room for being off in order to get acceptable focus, at least with film. And the wider the lens the wider the tit would be if Leica made one. Edited by A miller
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