R3D-D0T Posted August 20, 2016 Share #1 Posted August 20, 2016 Advertisement (gone after registration) Hi, I have the Nikon F2 but I'm thinking of replacing it for one of the Leicas since they are a lot more compact. But are there any ways to make focusing easier on RFs, especially when compared to the F2's viewfinder? Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Advertisement Posted August 20, 2016 Posted August 20, 2016 Hi R3D-D0T, Take a look here Critical Focusing on film cameras?. I'm sure you'll find what you were looking for!
jip Posted August 20, 2016 Share #2 Posted August 20, 2016 Hi, I have the Nikon F2 but I'm thinking of replacing it for one of the Leicas since they are a lot more compact. But are there any ways to make focusing easier on RFs, especially when compared to the F2's viewfinder? Easier? In what way? They are two different systems... you either like it or hate it. I prefer both for different reasons. Focussing a Rangefinder is easy and doesn't need you to judge sharpness yourself, you just align the lines in a composition (for example the pupil of someones eye) and you're good to expose. Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
TomB_tx Posted August 20, 2016 Share #3 Posted August 20, 2016 I've used both SLRs and Leica M models since the 1960s. A good rangefinder is easier and faster to focus in dim light, with wide to normal lenses, and at moderate distances (~10 ft and closer). SLR easier with long lenses in good light. I find 90 mm about equal on both. Ultra wides (21mm) require an accessory VF on Leica M, and are limited on close focus by the RF mechanism, and with their DOF focus isn't as critical, so I prefer SLR for these. Most of my work is 28-90 mm, and that's where I much prefer RF. Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
michaelwj Posted August 20, 2016 Share #4 Posted August 20, 2016 Hi, I have the Nikon F2 but I'm thinking of replacing it for one of the Leicas since they are a lot more compact. But are there any ways to make focusing easier on RFs, especially when compared to the F2's viewfinder? You can get lenses with a focus tab and focus by feel - no need to even look at the camera. In general use I find the Leica easier to focus in all light than my Nikon FE (not as bright as the F2 I understand). The only way to know is to try one for a week and see if you like it. If you're just after something more compact, who not a smaller lighter Nikon body? In my opinion (for what its worth) you get a RF camera not for compactness, but because of the RF. Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
earleygallery Posted August 20, 2016 Share #5 Posted August 20, 2016 Don't replace your F2. Maybe buy a Leica M2 and lens and see how you get on. If you can't afford to do that buy a Zorki. However from your question you imply that you've tried a Leica and found it difficult to focus with, in which case maybe consider an AF system instead? 2 Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brenton C Posted August 20, 2016 Share #6 Posted August 20, 2016 For what it's worth, I found switching to an M3 harder to focus. . . Yet interestingly, had fewer out of focus shots than with my slr. And then I discovered it was easier to focus the M3 after cleaning the glass bits with lens tissue. I'm persuaded that range finder photography is a more satisfying way to go for most purposes I require. I recommend reading up a bit on the unique merits of range findery so you can give a bit more studied attention when you try in next. 2 Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sblitz Posted August 21, 2016 Share #7 Posted August 21, 2016 Advertisement (gone after registration) when the lens is wide enough, hyperfocal focus, then just use the external finder to frame the shot. Where I find SLR focusing superior is when you shooting with long lenses at a wide aperture and want to selective focus. Harder to do on a RF when the focus patch and the area earmarked for that focal length are essentially the same. Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikemgb Posted August 21, 2016 Share #8 Posted August 21, 2016 I'm not familiar with F2 so I'm not sure which focusing screen the camera has but I'm assuming it has a split image centre? If that's the case, and you're used to using that then you shouldn't have any trouble with a rangefinder, the method is essentially the same, you just line up two lines. If your F2 just had a micro prism focusing screen you are going to love a rangefinder. I spent the day using a Mamiya SLR with micro prism screen, it it a lot slower than a rangefinder. Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
250swb Posted August 21, 2016 Share #9 Posted August 21, 2016 Definitely don't sell your F2, it can do things a Leica can't do. As for focusing a Leica rangefinder there is nothing scary about it, you adapt as you would with any camera. The hardest thing to initially master is the focus ring on the lens turns in the opposite direction from Nikon! That's about it for difficulty, with familiarity you could use both side by side in the traditional photojournalist style of Nikon for tele lenses and Leica for wides. 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
michaelwj Posted August 22, 2016 Share #10 Posted August 22, 2016 The aperture is backward too, in both direction and front/back position. Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
philipus Posted August 22, 2016 Share #11 Posted August 22, 2016 Perhaps I've misunderstood the question but for very critical focus, esp with longer lenses, you can use viewfinder magnifiers (Leica's or other brands). But are there any ways to make focusing easier on RFs, especially when compared to the F2's viewfinder? Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
pico Posted August 28, 2016 Share #12 Posted August 28, 2016 Perhaps I've misunderstood the question but for very critical focus, esp with longer lenses, you can use viewfinder magnifiers (Leica's or other brands). I tried magnifiers and the drawback is that they dim the view, but I only need them in low light which exacerbates the situation. Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
A miller Posted August 28, 2016 Share #13 Posted August 28, 2016 Another point to make is that, in the majority of cases, with film one doesnt need to obsess over critical 100% spot on focus. the 3D'ness of film will help skooth things over and create reasonable sharpness even without 100% spot on, as evident by the "tits" in the focusing patch of the M3. 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michael Geschlecht Posted August 28, 2016 Share #14 Posted August 28, 2016 (edited) Hello Adam, The purpose of the cut out "notches" in the range/viewfinders of later M3's & all M2's is to indicate to 50mm lens users what is marked on the lens barrels of 50mm lensas, as: "Within acceptable focus." Without the photographer having to remove their eye from the range/viewfinder. The narrower "notch" is for 50mm lenses set at F5.6. The wider "notch" is for when the same 50mm lens is set at F11. Best Regards, Michael Edited August 28, 2016 by Michael Geschlecht Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
pico Posted August 28, 2016 Share #15 Posted August 28, 2016 From the M2 manual which I think has the same DOF gauge. 5 Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michael Geschlecht Posted August 28, 2016 Share #16 Posted August 28, 2016 Hello Everybody, Whoops, sorry: My F11 in my Post #14 just above should have been F16. Thank you Pico. Best Regards, Michael Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michael Geschlecht Posted August 28, 2016 Share #17 Posted August 28, 2016 (edited) Hello Again Everybody, While on the topic of Depth Of Field: Everyone knows that what is called "depth of field" is in fact, in reality, an acceptable illusion. Since there is only 1 plane of "best" focus. All of the other planes of focus which are in front of or behind the plane of best focus & which are parallel to the image capture plane: Are in some degree of: Less than "best" focus. To make sharper photos: Some people set the apertures of their lenses to be either 1 or 2 stops SMALLER than the depth of field markings indicate when they are doing certain types of photos. Example: The scene that someone has focused within has a number of objects that the photographer wants to capture as acceptably sharp images in front of & behind the image plane focused on. Before taking the photo: By focusing on the nearest & the furthest.objects of interest & looking at how far they are from the image plane: The person sees that the depth of field scale says that they have to use an F Stop of F4 in order that all of the near & the far objects of interest will be rendered as acceptably "sharp" on both sides of the plane of focus. A higher standard of sharpness can be attained by using a +1 stop SMALLER aperture: F5.6 with the exposure increased appropriately. Some people do this as a regular measure to get a sharper than usual image within the planes of focus that are most important. Some people use +2 stops SMALLER aperture, F8, as the aperture to have, in order to have an even sharper image within the planes of focus considered most important. With the exposure increased appropriately. Best Regards, Michael Edited August 28, 2016 by Michael Geschlecht 2 Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
A miller Posted August 30, 2016 Share #18 Posted August 30, 2016 (edited) From the M2 manual which I think has the same DOF gauge. IMG_1617.JPG Hello Adam, The purpose of the cut out "notches" in the range/viewfinders of later M3's & all M2's is to indicate to 50mm lens users what is marked on the lens barrels of 50mm lensas, as: "Within acceptable focus." Without the photographer having to remove their eye from the range/viewfinder. The narrower "notch" is for 50mm lenses set at F5.6. The wider "notch" is for when the same 50mm lens is set at F11. Best Regards, Michael Yes, this is exactly what i was referring to. One can tell by the "wiggle room" of the focus throw within the tit that there is a reasonable degree of room for being off in order to get acceptable focus, at least with film. And the wider the lens the wider the tit would be if Leica made one. Edited August 30, 2016 by A miller 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
EoinC Posted September 3, 2016 Share #19 Posted September 3, 2016 ...will help skooth things over... I like this new word, Adam - Very New Yorkian. I'm going to test it on my family, and then see if I can introduce it to local society. Thank you. Banana Skoothie, anyone? 2 Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
gbealnz Posted September 3, 2016 Share #20 Posted September 3, 2016 A derivative perhaps of the schmootz he coined after he started with the Cinestill film. Whole new language those northern hemisphere folks use. Neil and his spell-check would be yet another, LOL. Gary 2 Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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