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Recommended flash for M-Monochrom


Nisdude

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Hey, I just bought a mint used M-Monochrom (gen 1) and am very excited to have it.   However, I'm curious what others might have used as a flash on this camera.   I know "flash" can be a dirty word to some Leica owners, but now and then, i find a use for them.

 

Any recommendations?

thanks

d

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I don't find "flash" to be a dirty word.  Bad light produces bad images regardless of how much the body and lens cost.  I think the answer depends on if you need TTL flash metering.  If so then only Leica branded flashes will do. The SF-26, SF-40, and SF-64 are the current models.  But if TTL flash metering is not a requirement then a whole universe of flashes become possibilities.  Personally I prefer Auto-Thyrister (AKA Auto Mode) flash metering in which the flash controls exposure rather than the camera.  This eliminates the need for a pre-flash and also avoids situation where the camera's metering is fooled by a bright light source in the frame or by a back lighted subject.  This typically produces a seriously underexposed image.  Many Nikon flashes work very nicely on my Leicas in Auto Mode.  Older Nikon flashes, designed for the film bodies, can be bought pretty inexpensively.  Other branded flashes that use Nikon-style flash shoe contacts will work as well.

Edited by Luke_Miller
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Flash does tend to get a bad rap with many available light shooters, which includes a lot of M users. While it is true that the M camera lends itself to available light by its' very nature, there is nothing that says flash cannot be effectively used to mitigate poor lighting situations just like with any other camera.

 

Specifically referencing on-camera flash (which I presume you are asking about), the trick is to ALWAYS use it as FILL rather than as the main source of light. On-camera flash is flat, head-on light (unless you are bouncing it off a much broader surface), which when poorly applied produces the deer-in-the-headlights, over exposed subject/underexposed background look many associate with flash work.

 

In almost every situation there is some form of available light, and that light should be considered the key directional light ... directional light often casts shadows on the subject. For example: (Raccoon Eyes with overhead sun or overhead lighting, Silhouetted faces from back lighting, half moon faces with strong side lighting, etc.). This is where fill-flash is used to better balance harsh and contrasty differences in natural lighting.       

The technique that allows you to always treat flash as fill, even in quite dark situations, is known as "Dragging the Shutter". Exposing for the lower available light using slower shutter speeds will open up the background, and the flash will freeze the subject because the duration of flash out-put is much faster than the shutter speed of the camera. 

 

I would look for a small speed-light that doesn't severely unbalance your MM; Offers tilt and swivel so you can 1) swivel for portrait orientation, and 2)  bounce the light when there is the opportunity; Uses 4 AA batteries so they are easy to replace, and the flash recycles quickly.

 

The little but powerful Nissan i40 speed-light is a nice choice ... I like it because in addition to auto-eye setting, it has an analog wheel on the back that allows you to set 1/256 to 1/1power manually. Probably in Nikon mount for Leica applications.

 

Leica offers the SF 40 that suspiciously looks like the Nissin i40 but is TTL ... at almost twice the price. You would have to confirm that the Leica SF 40 will work on the MM V1 with TTL, otherwise it sure isn't worth the price at all.

 

- Marc

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The little but powerful Nissan i40 speed-light is a nice choice ... I like it because in addition to auto-eye setting, it has an analog wheel on the back that allows you to set 1/256 to 1/1power manually. Probably in Nikon mount for Leica applications.

 

Good post, but I believe the i40's Auto mode is a version of TTL (it disables flash compensation) rather than Auto-Thyrister mode, so a Nikon dedicated i40 would work only in manual mode on a Leica body. The Leica branded SF-40 is needed for use with the Leica unless manual flash is OK. 

Edited by Luke_Miller
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A key thing to consider when selecting a flash is how you'll use it.  If just for some fill with single person shots, then something like the newer SF-26 is a nice option (compact, lightweight, bounce option).  If doing something that is more venue centric and needing a bigger burst of light for group shots, then something like the SF-58 has its merits.  

 

The new SF-64 looks quite interesting with its rear panel display, but for me a flash of that size (SF-56) is too big for the M and the handling is awkward.  The SF-26 is the right size, but its output power is rather anemic.  

 

I tried a SF-40 and its weight wasn't too far off from something like a SF-56.  If stepping up to SF-40 weight (with batteries), I'd go a step further and pick up a used SF-56 instead.  The Metz flashes have worked better with the Leica gear than Nissin flashes (in my experience).  

 

If shooting 100% manual, then there alot of other options which cost considerably less than a Leica branded flash.  If wanting TTL support or HSS, then you'll need flash with a Leica specific firmware.

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  • 2 weeks later...

in addition to my post above, the sf26, which is ttl only & which i like & use a lot, fires a measurement pre-flash. i'm not 100% certain but i think this pre-flash makes people shut their eyes 20% of the time. i could be wrong because it could also be my approach & timing as the pre-flash should be very short.

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That is indeed one of the drawbacks of the M-TTL system. And red eye reduction preflash for that matter.

 

I have always wondered why there is so much emphasis on TTL flashes. The difference in accuracy with non-TTL flashes is not that large, in fact in general photography there are few situations in which there is an advantage in TTL compared to an automatic flash.

 

The control over digital images by postprocessing has narrowed the gap even more.

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That is indeed one of the drawbacks of the M-TTL system. And red eye reduction preflash for that matter.

 

I have always wondered why there is so much emphasis on TTL flashes. The difference in accuracy with non-TTL flashes is not that large, in fact in general photography there are few situations in which there is an advantage in TTL compared to an automatic flash.

 

This matches my experience.  With my Nikons I normally use TTL because the body supports a flash exposure lock function, which allows me to perform the pre-flash and lock the flash exposure without releasing the shutter - then when I make the exposure there is no pre-flash and no "blinkies".  Since Leica does not offer this feature my flash will be set to Auto mode which works very nicely.

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  • 1 month later...

When I see people categorically dismiss flashes for the Monochrom, I tend to think that only the Sith think in absolutes. The simple fact is that there are plenty of scenes that have contrast ranges way beyond what the camera (and post) can handle well, and one major use of flashes is to reduce the dynamic range of scenes so that you can get good pictures (such as lighting up the subject to preserve detail in a backlighted scene rather than cranking up the ambient exposure to get the subject but totally whiting out the background).

 

The best flash for a Monochrom is a powerful one with a wide, diffused, powerful projection that can work even when bounced off ceilings or walls. The only manufacturer - in my experience - to nail that is Metz. I've used plenty of the Matsushita flashes that end up rebranded as Nikon, Canon, or whatever - and in general, they all shoot below their rated guide number and have projection angles that are out of step with what the labeled focal lengths are.

 

Among Metz flashes, the Leica SF 58 is probably the best combination of size, power, and features (HSS, lens focal length communication, etc.). You can get these for $350-400 used, and they are fantastic (get v.2). The SF 26 is a good flash for social occasions, but it runs on somewhat underpowered AAA batteries, has no auto mode, and has a relatively narrow angle of projection, even with the wide diffuser deployed. Neither the 58 nor the 26 have obnoxious preflash action.

 

I would skip the SF-24D. It runs on CR123As, which are inconvenient and expensive unless you are into rechargeables, it does not tilt, and its preflash definitely gives people time to blink.

 

You can also use Metz SCA300 flashes with the SCA340 Nikon module. These can be used in Auto or Manual modes, and the ready light contact/auto synch speed setting will work properly on your M Monochrom. The 28C3 is not a bad choice; its diffuser is a drum-style, and it sits very high above the lens axis (n.b., red-eye is a bigger problem on b/w because Lightroom cannot auto-detect it).

 

The Metz 54MZ-3 and -4 can run a rudimentary TTL with the M series cameras, as can the 45CL-3 digital. These have excellent quality of light. I believe the correct module is going to be 3502, one of the later revisions.

 

If you go for a Nikon flash, it's hard to do better than an SB-20 ($20-30 used), which has a ton of auto aperture modes (all accessible by sliding switches and not menus), multiple manual power factor modes, and a 3-position diffuser with bounce. Just leave the wide diffuser activated full-time, and you'll be fine with a 35mm lens.

 

Dante

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If you want to use a REAL flash, not much beats a Metz 45 CL-3/4. Enough power to bounce off any wall/ceiling and extremely versatile.

Now if you want something a little more practical, almost any of the Nikons suggested will work well. Select by power/bounce requirements.

My premise for these suggestions is that I have always found TTL overrated and lacking control and subtlety. I use auto and adjust to suit. Even easier with digital.

Cheers

J

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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I use an Olympus FL-36 on Auto or Manual mode. It's a relatively small flash made for the 4/3 system but the menu does allow it to be set for '35mm'. It has zoom settings for various common Leica focal lengths and has a swing and tilt head which gives it versatility. It's been superseded by the FL-36R so they are dead cheap on Ebay. 

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