M10Alpine Posted August 3, 2016 Share #1 Posted August 3, 2016 Advertisement (gone after registration) Hi I'm totally new to the MM246 I bought mine today and I wonder what yo think of having a 28 ELMARIT- M F2.8 as a starting point. I know its not ideal but is there any one who has a 28 ELMARIT- M F2.8 that can post a few pictures and reccoemnd setting to get nice results. Thx in advance 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Advertisement Posted August 3, 2016 Posted August 3, 2016 Hi M10Alpine, Take a look here How will 28 ELMARIT- M F2.8 perform?. I'm sure you'll find what you were looking for!
rpittal Posted August 3, 2016 Share #2 Posted August 3, 2016 Here are two I took with my 28/2.8 (also my first Leica lens), both taken with M240 (one converted to B&W) during a LA workshop with Rinzi Ruiz. Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here… Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! 2 Quote Link to post Share on other sites Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! ' data-webShareUrl='https://www.l-camera-forum.com/topic/263166-how-will-28-elmarit-m-f28-perform/?do=findComment&comment=3090294'>More sharing options...
M10Alpine Posted August 3, 2016 Author Share #3 Posted August 3, 2016 Nice! I read that the MM246 is in need of a lenses that can see in the dark... "I am talking about the difference you can imagine between how a plastic lens cannot separate light rays and will come up with a blurry image, versus a excellent piece of optics. When you have looked through a good binocular you will know exactly what I am talking about. The experience of seeing clearer through a piece of glass than what your eye can see. Wow! The lenses that has outstanding ability to see in the dark are the Leica 50mm APO-Summicron-M ASPH f/2.0, the Leica 50mm Summilux-M ASPH f/1.4, the Leica 28mm Summilux-M ASPH f/1.4, the Leica 35mm Summilux-M ASPH f/1.4, the Leica 75mm Summicron-M ASPH f/2.0, the Leica 90mm APO-Summicron-M ASPH f/2.0 and the Leica 50mm Noctilux-M ASPH f/0.95." Via: http://www.overgaard.dk/leica-M-Monochrom-Type-246-Digital-Rangefinder-Camera-black-and-white-sensor-page-28-The-Leica-M246-Goes-to-Paris.html An other affordable option would be the: LEICA SUMMICRON M 2/50 codé 6bits 2011 - 11826 2 Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted August 4, 2016 Share #4 Posted August 4, 2016 (edited) Hi I'm totally new to the MM246 I bought mine today and I wonder what yo think of having a 28 ELMARIT- M F2.8 as a starting point. I know its not ideal but is there any one who has a 28 ELMARIT- M F2.8 that can post a few pictures and reccoemnd setting to get nice results. Thx in advance the leica marketing guys will love your post yep ,obviously you need the newest asph lenses to get good pictures , everything else is just crap Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here… Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! (monochrom mk1/ elmarit 28/ e49) Edited August 4, 2016 by Guest Quote Link to post Share on other sites Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! (monochrom mk1/ elmarit 28/ e49) ' data-webShareUrl='https://www.l-camera-forum.com/topic/263166-how-will-28-elmarit-m-f28-perform/?do=findComment&comment=3090462'>More sharing options...
Overgaard Posted August 4, 2016 Share #5 Posted August 4, 2016 Hi I'm totally new to the MM246 I bought mine today and I wonder what yo think of having a 28 ELMARIT- M F2.8 as a starting point. I know its not ideal but is there any one who has a 28 ELMARIT- M F2.8 that can post a few pictures and reccoemnd setting to get nice results. Thx in advance Most start with a 50mm or 35mm but there are also traditional a good handful who have 28mm as their main lens (the one they use the most). As for the 28/2.8, it's as great as the other 28mm lenses (28/1.4 and 28/2.0). I spoke with Peter Karbe about them some time ago (not published yet on my website), and he said they are same performance, only the f-stop is different. The 28/2.8 I always liked, but then I also like light strong lenses, so I ended up with the 28/1.4. But the 28/2.8 did some great photos for me. Very easy to use, very good colors, tonality and all. 7 Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Giulio Zanni Posted August 4, 2016 Share #6 Posted August 4, 2016 Nice! I read that the MM246 is in need of a lenses that can see in the dark... "I am talking about the difference you can imagine between how a plastic lens cannot separate light rays and will come up with a blurry image, versus a excellent piece of optics. When you have looked through a good binocular you will know exactly what I am talking about. The experience of seeing clearer through a piece of glass than what your eye can see. Wow! The lenses that has outstanding ability to see in the dark are the Leica 50mm APO-Summicron-M ASPH f/2.0, the Leica 50mm Summilux-M ASPH f/1.4, the Leica 28mm Summilux-M ASPH f/1.4, the Leica 35mm Summilux-M ASPH f/1.4, the Leica 75mm Summicron-M ASPH f/2.0, the Leica 90mm APO-Summicron-M ASPH f/2.0 and the Leica 50mm Noctilux-M ASPH f/0.95." Via: http://www.overgaard.dk/leica-M-Monochrom-Type-246-Digital-Rangefinder-Camera-black-and-white-sensor-page-28-The-Leica-M246-Goes-to-Paris.html An other affordable option would be the: LEICA SUMMICRON M 2/50 codé 6bits 2011 - 11826 I would add the 21/1.4, 24/1.4 and 75/1.4 among the lenses that can see in the dark. 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Belle123 Posted August 4, 2016 Share #7 Posted August 4, 2016 Advertisement (gone after registration) Nice! I read that the MM246 is in need of a lenses that can see in the dark... "I am talking about the difference you can imagine between how a plastic lens cannot separate light rays and will come up with a blurry image, versus a excellent piece of optics. When you have looked through a good binocular you will know exactly what I am talking about. The experience of seeing clearer through a piece of glass than what your eye can see. Wow![/size] The lenses that has outstanding ability to see in the dark are the Leica 50mm APO-Summicron-M ASPH f/2.0, the Leica 50mm Summilux-M ASPH f/1.4, the Leica 28mm Summilux-M ASPH f/1.4, the Leica 35mm Summilux-M ASPH f/1.4, the Leica 75mm Summicron-M ASPH f/2.0, the Leica 90mm APO-Summicron-M ASPH f/2.0 and the Leica 50mm Noctilux-M ASPH f/0.95." Via: http://www.overgaard.dk/leica-M-Monochrom-Type-246-Digital-Rangefinder-Camera-black-and-white-sensor-page-28-The-Leica-M246-Goes-to-Paris.html An other affordable option would be the: LEICA SUMMICRON M 2/50 codé 6bits 2011 - 11826 The most difficult challenge to using the 246 is not blowing the highlights. So, no, doesn't "need" lenses that can see in the dark. Just the opposite. I would recommend not using fast lenses starting out, particularly if you want to shoot other than dark places. I find on the Summilux and Noctilux, an ND filter is needed. If I were starting out new, would go for the Elmarit. 5 Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
EoinC Posted August 4, 2016 Share #8 Posted August 4, 2016 The most difficult challenge to using the 246 is not blowing the highlights. So, no, doesn't "need" lenses that can see in the dark. Just the opposite. I would recommend not using fast lenses starting out, particularly if you want to shoot other than dark places. I find on the Summilux and Noctilux, an ND filter is needed. If I were starting out new, would go for the Elmarit. My most used lens on my M246 is a Summicron 50, with a distant 2nd being a Summilux 35. The biggest issue I have with the M246 is its limitations in handling highlights, and I concur about the need to sometimes use ND filters. I'm not sure about the recommendation not to use fast lenses (other than not to spend money on attributes you don't need), as a Summilux at f/2.8 is letting the same light in as an Elmarit at f/2.8. Using the wider apertures available in the faster lenses is not compulsory. 4 Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Belle123 Posted August 4, 2016 Share #9 Posted August 4, 2016 My most used lens on my M246 is a Summicron 50, with a distant 2nd being a Summilux 35. The biggest issue I have with the M246 is its limitations in handling highlights, and I concur about the need to sometimes use ND filters. I'm not sure about the recommendation not to use fast lenses (other than not to spend money on attributes you don't need), as a Summilux at f/2.8 is letting the same light in as an Elmarit at f/2.8. Using the wider apertures available in the faster lenses is not compulsory. Well, yes, I would agree on the Summilux. But you are paying a lot for maybe an aperture you might not really need unless you shoot in a lot of low light situations with the 246. We could go down a whole list of reasons of one lens over the other, but really my response was trying to explain that th 246 doesn't need a fast lens and will do great with slower and less expensive lenses. Nothing wrong with getting a Sumilux if you want it. 3 Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
M10Alpine Posted August 4, 2016 Author Share #10 Posted August 4, 2016 Wow - all Thanks so much for kind advice. All very helpful. As a starting point it seams like a no-brainer to go with the Elmarit F 2.8. I will start there as this is my first rangefinder. Again thanks for all input. 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Giulio Zanni Posted August 4, 2016 Share #11 Posted August 4, 2016 I find the issue of the burning highlights a false problem. Just keep an eye on the histogram and you are set. Even if you get few minor blinklies on non crucial part of the frame you can pull them back in LR. I do use ND filters on summiluxes as the base iso on the 246 is 320. 2 Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
EoinC Posted August 4, 2016 Share #12 Posted August 4, 2016 I find the issue of the burning highlights a false problem. Just keep an eye on the histogram and you are set. Even if you get few minor blinklies on non crucial part of the frame you can pull them back in LR. I do use ND filters on summiluxes as the base iso on the 246 is 320. It is a problem down here in the harsh tropic light. 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
4X5B&W Posted August 4, 2016 Share #13 Posted August 4, 2016 (edited) I believe there are 4 versions of the 28 Elmarit (non ASPH). I believe the first version is the E49 one used by Lambda above. I have the Ver. 4 the post Mandler tweeked design, that I just love on my Monochrom Ver 1. Works for me Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here… Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! Edited August 4, 2016 by 4X5B&W 3 Quote Link to post Share on other sites Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! ' data-webShareUrl='https://www.l-camera-forum.com/topic/263166-how-will-28-elmarit-m-f28-perform/?do=findComment&comment=3090948'>More sharing options...
Belle123 Posted August 4, 2016 Share #14 Posted August 4, 2016 It is a problem down here in the harsh tropic light. Yes. And to note, the histogram is not visible thru the rangefinder eye piece. Easy to blow highlights or any light area and not always recoverable in LR. 2 Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
M10Alpine Posted August 4, 2016 Author Share #15 Posted August 4, 2016 I believe there are 4 versions of the 28 Elmarit (non ASPH). I believe the first version is the E49 one used by Lambda above. I have the Ver. 4 the post Mandler tweeked design, that I just love on my Monochrom Ver 1. Works for me Very nice picture! Love the symmetry and shapes. Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
4X5B&W Posted August 5, 2016 Share #16 Posted August 5, 2016 (edited) Many people like the smoothness of the images from the pre-ASPH lenses, especially when used with a sensor like the Monochrome. Additionally the transition from in focus to out of focus can give a more pleasant look than today's super sharp lenses. Hence some of the newer designs (50 AA) are looking for that traditional smoother transition. The 28 Elmarit Ver 4 (in my experience) and probably the Ver 3 can give you that yesterday's design look. Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here… Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! Edited August 5, 2016 by 4X5B&W 4 Quote Link to post Share on other sites Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! ' data-webShareUrl='https://www.l-camera-forum.com/topic/263166-how-will-28-elmarit-m-f28-perform/?do=findComment&comment=3091014'>More sharing options...
Belle123 Posted August 5, 2016 Share #17 Posted August 5, 2016 Diverging from the topic a little, but has anyone tried an Elmarit R 28mm lens on the MM? Once I tried my really old Summicron R 35mm and really liked the results. This camera loves older lenses. 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
fotomas Posted August 7, 2016 Share #18 Posted August 7, 2016 (edited) Here one with M 246 and 2,8/28 mm ASPH, YG Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here… Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! I don't use 28 so often, so I have to search a bit for this combination. Edited August 7, 2016 by fotomas 3 Quote Link to post Share on other sites Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! I don't use 28 so often, so I have to search a bit for this combination. ' data-webShareUrl='https://www.l-camera-forum.com/topic/263166-how-will-28-elmarit-m-f28-perform/?do=findComment&comment=3092501'>More sharing options...
m0n0 Posted August 9, 2016 Share #19 Posted August 9, 2016 The most difficult challenge to using the 246 is not blowing the highlights. So, no, doesn't "need" lenses that can see in the dark. Just the opposite. I would recommend not using fast lenses starting out, particularly if you want to shoot other than dark places. I find on the Summilux and Noctilux, an ND filter is needed. If I were starting out new, would go for the Elmarit.I would also go with the Elmarit first. It's so compact and convenient I would keep it even if I got the Summilux at some point. Apart from ND filters I have found a medium or light yellow filter improves contrast and tonality in many situations with the Monochrom. That will also take away 0.5 to 1 stop of light. Sent from my EVA-L29 using Tapatalk 2 Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Herr Barnack Posted August 10, 2016 Share #20 Posted August 10, 2016 I have the newest version of the 28mm Elmarit M (# 11677) and I would wholeheartedly recommend it. The 28 Summicron and 28 Summilux will produce a more shallow DOF than the 28mm Elmarit and a different bokeh; different, not "better." With a maximum ISO of 25,000 the Monochrom typ 246 makes the need for a lens that is faster than f/2.8 not as pressing as if you were shooting B&W film. In terms of sharpness, contrast and image quality, the 28mm Elmarit M is beyond reproach. 3 Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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