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Who uses the SL professionally? and can you post professional images used from the SL?


bilbrown

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I picked up my SL a couple of weeks back now from the Leica flagship store here in Los Angeles. I had just started shooting models again after a long hiatus, and needed a DLSR-esque camera that would keep up with me, my M240 is grand and definitely still in the mix, as well as an S when I can rent it or other cameras - but I started realizing I was missing shots that I think a pro body that could take my M-mount glass would provide.

 

There have been a few problems...

 

Now I think this is the SD cards I had laying around and not the SL itself, because in other forums I have heard no one else really complain about *SLOW STARTUP TIMES* or the SL sticking in live view with unresponsive menus and controls, but mine does when it first starts up like over a minute in some cases. I have to have the subjects wait while I fiddle with it to get it to work. As opposed to my M and the S cameras I have used, this is kind of annoying and not at all what I need out of a machine that is used for REAL WORK purposes.

 

So it makes me think... is this maybe still an enthusiast camera or is this the work horse I need?

 

Also, I'd like to see folks that use the SL like I do or close. As a work machine that will in time be a welcome addition to my arsenal.

 

 

 

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That sort of start up time is not right. Mine is up and running in a couple of seconds - it also seems to be ready to take shots before the LCD is correctly displaying. 

From those who have commented on similar cases, mine is the normal, correct experience.

 

Are you using recommended cards? That would be the first thing to check.

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I had lots of issues with slow startup time just like you. I couldn't believe it and I hated it. It was all caused by the cards I was using. I had very fast cards from Lexar and Sony, both 64GB capacity. The startup time was up to a minute. It was with the firmware 1.2. I upgraded to firmware 2.0 and ditched the offending cards. I'm now using Sandisk Extreme 90mb/s transfer rate 32GB capacity cards. The problem is gone altogether. I showed my issue to a Leica Australia rep and he couldn't believe it either but he was not of much help. I was all down to cards. 

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What are min. requirements for SD cards when shooting the video?

Yesterday my SL came up with a message:  "This card is too slow for shooting the video"

 

I was using Samsung 32 Gb SDHC1 UHS-I

 

 

If you are filming in 4k quality, then a UHS-II card is recommended. It guarantees by definition at least 30 MB/s write speed. This is necessary for 4k video.

Filming is more demanding than taking photos.   :)

Your current card can still be used for taking photos without problems.

Edited by steppenw0lf
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I picked up my SL a couple of weeks back now from the Leica flagship store here in Los Angeles. I had just started shooting models again after a long hiatus, and needed a DLSR-esque camera that would keep up with me, my M240 is grand and definitely still in the mix, as well as an S when I can rent it or other cameras - but I started realizing I was missing shots that I think a pro body that could take my M-mount glass would provide.

 

There have been a few problems...

 

Now I think this is the SD cards I had laying around and not the SL itself, because in other forums I have heard no one else really complain about *SLOW STARTUP TIMES* or the SL sticking in live view with unresponsive menus and controls, but mine does when it first starts up like over a minute in some cases. I have to have the subjects wait while I fiddle with it to get it to work. As opposed to my M and the S cameras I have used, this is kind of annoying and not at all what I need out of a machine that is used for REAL WORK purposes.

 

So it makes me think... is this maybe still an enthusiast camera or is this the work horse I need?

 

Also, I'd like to see folks that use the SL like I do or close. As a work machine that will in time be a welcome addition to my arsenal.

 

 

Since you don't really articulate how you use the SL, no one can really answer that with any credibility. ;-)

 

I don't shoot models. I do fine art photography as a sideline ... which covers a lot of different kinds of shooting from still life to street, to landscape, to portraiture. For me, the SL is a direct replacement for the DSLRs I once used, and for my Olympus E-M1 (which I'm still too fond of to put on the market). 

 

I have measured SL startup and overall performance with Sandisk Extreme Pro 64G (95MB/sec) cards and Lexar Pro 128G UHS-II (150MB/sec) cards. They're within a snail's gasp of each other. Startup with the SL24-90 lens is about 1 second, startup with adapted M and R lenses is about 1.5 seconds. Buffer size with JPEG (fine, full) + raw is 33 exposures; write time for a full buffer is about a minute (just shy of 1.9 seconds per exposure on average). I posted more precise results here in another thread somewhere. 

 

I haven't done much video so I can't be too helpful there, but my impression is get big, UHS II cards and use the top slot. 

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I use my Leica's professionally , I have an M240 and SL with 5 lenses, I've been a photographer full time for about 25 years.

 

Thanks for the heads up on the faster cards, I had a lockup on the camera yesterday and it looked like it was just too slow writing to 'standard cards' and I bought two 128G Lexars 150MB/sec and currently deep formatting them in SD card formatter.

 

There are quirks that should be addressed in the next firmware update

 

1. Backlit subjects should not be silhouettes, it makes it tricky to focus (read that as VERY tricky), the Sony A7II just blew out the background and recognised an image with strong light from behind. The subject was to be flashed so the end result would be fine.

 

2. The focus point chosen should stay there until I say otherwise, its annoying to have it default back to the centre after each shot. However I am getting used to the exceptional viewfinder and if it looks in focus with that then it is 99/100 when I zoom in too

 

window.jpg

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2. The focus point chosen should stay there until I say otherwise, its annoying to have it default back to the centre after each shot. However I am getting used to the exceptional viewfinder and if it looks in focus with that then it is 99/100 when I zoom in too

Puzzled. With the SL24-90, single point, zone or field AFs, the focus point stays where it is placed after each shot on my camera. With MF, the zoom in point stays at the same place as well.

 

Ah - I've just checked an R lens - the zoom-in point does revert to the centre after the shot. I agree, I would prefer it to stay where last placed, as with the native lenses.

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I wouldn't mind if the focus point stayed where I last had it IF there was a one-press solution to re-centering it. As it is right now, I like the behavior with the R lenses more than I do with the SL24-90 because I'm always having to re-center the focus point. 

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It depends on the style of photographing.

If you need only one shot and are certain it is perfect, and go to the next target, then it is better if the focus point is recentered.

If you are never sure the shot was good enough and would like to try another one, with just minor differences, then it is better if the focus point stays where it is.

 

As there are different types of users, it would be nice if this could be selected (customized). So another menu entry to add.   :)

And easy re-centering would be useful anyway. (But I think a double tap does it, or not ?)

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It depends on the style of photographing.

If you need only one shot and are certain it is perfect, and go to the next target, then it is better if the focus point is recentered.

If you are never sure the shot was good enough and would like to try another one, with just minor differences, then it is better if the focus point stays where it is.

 

As there are different types of users, it would be nice if this could be selected (customized). So another menu entry to add.   :)

And easy re-centering would be useful anyway. (But I think a double tap does it, or not ?)

 

 

A double tap on what? The LCD? Mostly useless for me, I don't use touch-focus on the LCD but once in a blue moon. 

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The centre focussing point is probably the least used zone in the whole frame (for me) the point of interest is generally better placed aesthetically towards an edge about a third usually.

 

When shooting a portrait it's going to take a number of frames while the subject relaxes and the exact positioning of the camera is determined. In the example above the head is placed too centrally really (I pulled it out of the set quickly), so better shots were taken later for both expression and composition.

 

My rambling point is, I need the focus point to stay where it is for the duration of the sequence of portraits. It's interesting to hear that with the 24-90 it does stay in place, implying that it's just a firmware tweak to do the same with M lenses.

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I keep defaulting back to my M240, and zone focusing.
 
I am happy with the DR and EYE-RES of the SL, and the speed.
 
I figured out the card situation and now start up is much more like it. I just had to switch slots (I had a faster card in slot 1, when it should have been in slot 2).
 
I've been using the M to T adapter and my CZ f1.5 50. I also put my 75 Summarit on the camera. It's rivaled MF shots with the S and Pentax 645Z in detail (but still doesn't quite beat the M240 when it's optimal ISO is played).
 
But then, I hardly EVER open my lenses up to their full potential, generally sticking to F11-F22. I have tried more with the SL, and I keep the focus center anyway... but since I will likely NEVER get the 24-90 0r any other zoom...
Doesn't matter.
 
 
 
 
Anyone have anything they can show us that is for professional use?
 
 
Here is a model test shot. The MONOCHROME setting is badass (however I did this in LR conversion). *POST IN A SECOND*

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This was with the SL and CZ 50 F1.5 at 1/125

 

slight variance in LR with a modified Ilford HP4 setting from VSCO

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The focus point chosen should stay there until I say otherwise, its annoying to have it default back to the centre after each shot.

 

 

 

+1.  In Most cases I end up wanting to take a few shots with that setting anyway.  I do agree that there should be a fast way to move it back to the center as is the case on the Fuji's.

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