Guest NEIL-D-WILLIAMS Posted May 20, 2016 Share #1 Posted May 20, 2016 Advertisement (gone after registration) I've been offered a 32 and 56 extension tube for my Hasselblad 180mm lens and wondered if anyone on here has used either of these. I want to get closer to nature so that's the need for the ET. And advice would be much appreciated? Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Advertisement Posted May 20, 2016 Posted May 20, 2016 Hi Guest NEIL-D-WILLIAMS, Take a look here Extension tube for 503 with a 180 mm f4 lens. I'm sure you'll find what you were looking for!
gbealnz Posted May 20, 2016 Share #2 Posted May 20, 2016 Buy both Neil. Or the bellows, but I do think you could be pushing it uphill with a match-stick to be honest. Just use the S. I scanned an old film shot last night actually, close up shot it was, and then thought, "I did this same sort of shot recently with my X-Vario, and it was way easier, and way better". Gary Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest NEIL-D-WILLIAMS Posted May 20, 2016 Share #3 Posted May 20, 2016 Gary I want the ET's for Macro work not scanning? Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
gbealnz Posted May 20, 2016 Share #4 Posted May 20, 2016 Yep, realise that Neil. I knew what I said, but didn't express it very well. I scanned an old 35mm close-up shot (Mantis) that I too a while back. I'll post it in the film forum soon. Coincidentally I did a similar shot a few weeks ago, with the X-Vario. Chalk and cheese. Only one way to know, get some, try them. The smart money if close-up is your scene is the 120 Makro Planar, stunning lens. I had the older (F5.6) version, back in the day. The new one is even better, evidently. Gary Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
adan Posted May 20, 2016 Share #5 Posted May 20, 2016 Really, the choice between the two tubes depends on "how close do you want/need to get?" The longer the tube, the closer and tighter you can get. Ideally, I would want a tube that picks up where the 180's normal minimum focus quits (1.55 meters or about 5 feet), so that you don't have a gap between no tube, and tube + lens-at-infinity. You'll just have to find some specs to determine if the 38 has too much useless overlap, and the 56 leaves a gap, with the 180 specifically. A quicky search (data from a 150 lens) seems to indicate the 56mm will be OK - but double-check that. Keep in mind that "life-size" or "1:1" still doesn't get you as tight as the same magification on smaller film. 1:1 on the Hassy is an area 56mm x 56mm (flower blossom), whereas on 35mm, 1:1 is an area 24mm x 36 mm (postage stamp or bug). And with an X-Vario, 1:1 is an area 23mm x 16mm. Also, remember that extension factor kicks in more with the longer focal lengths of 6x6 - you may need to add a stop or more exposure focused that close. A ttl meter prism will take that into account automatically, but with an external meter, you'll have to make the adjustment - open up a stop from the meter reading, or double the exposure time with the shutter. Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
adan Posted May 20, 2016 Share #6 Posted May 20, 2016 Update - ran across a 180 Sonnar and 38 tube at the shop this pm. Shot some tests for magnification. Still drying - but even the 38 tube leaves a slight gap in focusing range/magnification. Without the tube, the 180 focuses to 1.55 meters - WITH the tube, the range is about 1.45 meters down to pretty close (but barely macro - about 1/3rd life-size.) Also shot a comparison with a 120 macro and 180 (no tube). Will post results for your consideration in 4 hours or so. 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
adan Posted May 21, 2016 Share #7 Posted May 21, 2016 Advertisement (gone after registration) Comparisons showing magnification range with the 38mm tube on the 180 Sonnar, and the Sonnar by itself. Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here… Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! If you really want "bug, leaf and blossom macro", you may want to get BOTH tubes you're being offered (they can be stacked). BTW - the stand-alone 120mm S-Planar C (f/5.6) or Makro-Planar CF (f/4) lenses frame down to about the same as the middle picture, with just the built-in focusing ring. They are true macro lenses, optimized for close focusing (where they are a bit sharper than the 180, or anything else in the Hassy/Zeiss lineup), but less sharp, with more curvature of field and distortion, at long distances (> 2-3 meters). Not really bad - just need a bit more stopping down - and they can double as a "normal" and portrait lens ("66mm" in 35mm terms). I myself am currently on the knife edge, making tests to decide what to use to bridge between my 38mm Super-Wide and my 250 Sonnar: 80 + 150, or just a 120 S-Planar to cover for both. Love the 120's accessory-free tighter framing, dual-purpose character, and carrying one less lens; hate the slow aperture and finder cutoff; can live with stopping down to f/8 for scenics. Quote Link to post Share on other sites Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! If you really want "bug, leaf and blossom macro", you may want to get BOTH tubes you're being offered (they can be stacked). BTW - the stand-alone 120mm S-Planar C (f/5.6) or Makro-Planar CF (f/4) lenses frame down to about the same as the middle picture, with just the built-in focusing ring. They are true macro lenses, optimized for close focusing (where they are a bit sharper than the 180, or anything else in the Hassy/Zeiss lineup), but less sharp, with more curvature of field and distortion, at long distances (> 2-3 meters). Not really bad - just need a bit more stopping down - and they can double as a "normal" and portrait lens ("66mm" in 35mm terms). I myself am currently on the knife edge, making tests to decide what to use to bridge between my 38mm Super-Wide and my 250 Sonnar: 80 + 150, or just a 120 S-Planar to cover for both. Love the 120's accessory-free tighter framing, dual-purpose character, and carrying one less lens; hate the slow aperture and finder cutoff; can live with stopping down to f/8 for scenics. ' data-webShareUrl='https://www.l-camera-forum.com/topic/260663-extension-tube-for-503-with-a-180-mm-f4-lens/?do=findComment&comment=3048439'>More sharing options...
adan Posted May 22, 2016 Share #8 Posted May 22, 2016 BTW - I meant "32mm" tube, obviously, in the examples and previous posts - not sure why I put 38mm (Biogon head-fake?) - Sorry. Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest NEIL-D-WILLIAMS Posted May 22, 2016 Share #9 Posted May 22, 2016 Andy, Thanks for the pictures and the explanation. I will give the two tubes a go when I get back from work and will post up my finding then Thanks again Neil Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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