Extension tube for 503 with a 180 mm f4 lens

[Guest NEIL-D-WILLIAMS]

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I've been offered a 32 and 56 extension tube for my Hasselblad 180mm lens and wondered if anyone on here has used either of these. I want to get closer to nature so that's the need for the ET.

And advice would be much appreciated?

[gbealnz]

Buy both Neil.

Or the bellows, but I do think you could be pushing it uphill with a match-stick to be honest.

 

Just use the S.

 

I scanned an old film shot last night actually, close up shot it was, and then thought, "I did this same sort of shot recently with my X-Vario, and it was way easier, and way better".

Gary

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[Guest NEIL-D-WILLIAMS]

Gary I want the ET's for Macro work not scanning?

[gbealnz]

Yep, realise that Neil.

I knew what I said, but didn't express it very well.

I scanned an old 35mm close-up shot (Mantis) that I too a while back. I'll post it in the film forum soon. Coincidentally I did a similar shot a few weeks ago, with the X-Vario.

Chalk and cheese.

Only one way to know, get some, try them. The smart money if close-up is your scene is the 120 Makro Planar, stunning lens. I had the older (F5.6) version, back in the day. The new one is even better, evidently.

Gary

[adan]

Really, the choice between the two tubes depends on "how close do you want/need to get?" The longer the tube, the closer and tighter you can get.

 

Ideally, I would want a tube that picks up where the 180's normal minimum focus quits (1.55 meters or about 5 feet), so that you don't have a gap between no tube, and tube + lens-at-infinity. You'll just have to find some specs to determine if the 38 has too much useless overlap, and the 56 leaves a gap, with the 180 specifically. A quicky search (data from a 150 lens) seems to indicate the 56mm will be OK - but double-check that.

 

Keep in mind that "life-size" or "1:1" still doesn't get you as tight as the same magification on smaller film. 1:1 on the Hassy is an area 56mm x 56mm (flower blossom), whereas on 35mm, 1:1 is an area 24mm x 36 mm (postage stamp or bug). And with an X-Vario, 1:1 is an area 23mm x 16mm.

 

Also, remember that extension factor kicks in more with the longer focal lengths of 6x6 - you may need to add a stop or more exposure focused that close. A ttl meter prism will take that into account automatically, but with an external meter, you'll have to make the adjustment - open up a stop from the meter reading, or double the exposure time with the shutter.

[adan]

Update - ran across a 180 Sonnar and 38 tube at the shop this pm. Shot some tests for magnification. Still drying - but even the 38 tube leaves a slight gap in focusing range/magnification. Without the tube, the 180 focuses to 1.55 meters - WITH the tube, the range is about 1.45 meters down to pretty close (but barely macro - about 1/3rd life-size.) Also shot a comparison with a 120 macro and 180 (no tube). Will post results for your consideration in 4 hours or so.

[adan]

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Comparisons showing magnification range with the 38mm tube on the 180 Sonnar, and the Sonnar by itself.

 

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If you really want "bug, leaf and blossom macro", you may want to get BOTH tubes you're being offered (they can be stacked).

 

BTW - the stand-alone 120mm S-Planar C (f/5.6) or Makro-Planar CF (f/4) lenses frame down to about the same as the middle picture, with just the built-in focusing ring. They are true macro lenses, optimized for close focusing (where they are a bit sharper than the 180, or anything else in the Hassy/Zeiss lineup), but less sharp, with more curvature of field and distortion, at long distances (> 2-3 meters). Not really bad - just need a bit more stopping down - and they can double as a "normal" and portrait lens ("66mm" in 35mm terms).

 

I myself am currently on the knife edge, making tests to decide what to use to bridge between my 38mm Super-Wide and my 250 Sonnar: 80 + 150, or just a 120 S-Planar to cover for both. Love the 120's accessory-free tighter framing, dual-purpose character, and carrying one less lens; hate the slow aperture and finder cutoff; can live with stopping down to f/8 for scenics.

[adan]

BTW - I meant "32mm" tube, obviously, in the examples and previous posts - not sure why I put 38mm (Biogon head-fake?) - Sorry.

[Guest NEIL-D-WILLIAMS]

Andy,

Thanks for the pictures and the explanation. I will give the two tubes a go when I get back from work and will post up my finding then

Thanks again

 

Neil