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Leica Focomat 1c ...broken part


crow

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hi there,

just took it out of the box, bought from ebay, and I am not sure where this comes from.

Can you tell?

I wont have internet access for a week so thanks in advance.

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Looks like a part of the autofocus mechanism, the stopper. Not absolutly relefant for using.

If the Focomat 1c all in one in good condition, I would keep him.

 

Sorry for my bad english.

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Edited by kraxel69
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Yes,

that is exactly it. Thank you so much.

Funny thing, I cleaned it, put it together,

insulated the wire connections without openning the vertical cylinder, but stretched the cable so hopefuly doesn't touch the metal, and missed the spot you mentioned. Now I now I can glue it back on and it will be just fine. Only, do you know what material it is made of? Certainly for keeps, and it is decided 3 weeks ago. Had a hint it is no big deal,

It came with a black Elmar enlarger leitz lens. I will definetly compare with the nikon 50/4 and the apo rodagon 50/2,8.

Great! Thanks again! Pardon my english too, not perfect either.

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In german language the material called ``gusseisen``, cast iron. Maybe you can repair it with a two component glue.

I use my Focomat with the 50mm 4.5 Leitz Focotar. I like the results. Its a good enlarger, makes fun to work with him.

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If the piece seems to fit back together nicely, then I agree, glue it in place. Make some inquiries and obtain the best glue you can find to do this. I often use a 2 part glue called Araldite (in this country). And many years ago my dad built boats and used "EpiGlue", again a two pot mix. Given the porous look of the metal it should attach nicely.

Gary

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Araldit we do have also, and I know since I was a kid. My dod did boats also but as a mechanic. He too uses two part glue. I also bought one for glueing marble and it did very well, so I' ll read the instructions and see if it is any good for cast iron.Thanks, you've been very helpful.

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In german language the material called ``gusseisen``, cast iron. Maybe you can repair it with a two component glue.

I use my Focomat with the 50mm 4.5 Leitz Focotar. I like the results. Its a good enlarger, makes fun to work with him.

 

You need to be very careful welding cast metals. They need preheating, and are very susceptible to further failure.

Eoin I also have a Focomat Ic and as Kraxel said , it's iron

I fear that the adhesive will not be strong

Rg H.

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I am not sure if this stopper has anything to do with the automatic focus. Perhaps it just serves to prevent the head to go up too high (against the column)?

 

It is funny, after so many years of using this enlarger, I never noticed this part.

 

Where are you Crow? I may have the entire clamping part and would be happy to give it to you. But there would be postage from Europe.

 

Michael

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Eoin I also have a Focomat Ic and as Kraxel said , it's iron

I fear that the adhesive will not be strong

Rg H.

Cast iron is very porous, Henry, so a strong epoxy or liquid metal should get a good bond. I think that welding is likely to create more problems than it solves.

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In addition to the Araldite I mentioned above, years ago made rifle stocks for target rifles.In the process of "adapting" the metal to the wood, I used an adhesive/filler called "Devcon". It required a release agent to be applied to the metal, otherwise the metal was forever affixed to the wood, forever.

Try a search here: http://www.devcon.com/products/products.cfm?brand=Devcon&cat=Metal%20Repair

This might be an overkill, but in this case it is probably worth it.

Gary

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In addition to the Araldite I mentioned above, years ago made rifle stocks for target rifles.In the process of "adapting" the metal to the wood, I used an adhesive/filler called "Devcon". It required a release agent to be applied to the metal, otherwise the metal was forever affixed to the wood, forever.

Try a search here: http://www.devcon.com/products/products.cfm?brand=Devcon&cat=Metal%20Repair

This might be an overkill, but in this case it is probably worth it.

Gary

Devcon, or liquid metal, creates a very good bond, but is probably overkill for this, unless it is an area that is structural or gets impacted (noting that there was probably some kind of impact for it to break in the first place). If the enlarger is fully operable in its current state, I would use a strong epoxy, such as Araldite. If this broken piece has an effect on operability, I would up the ante and use a liquid metal, such as Devcon.

I hope, whatever you do, that this enlarger serves you well and produces some great prints and experiences.

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(noting that there was probably some kind of impact for it to break in the first place).

 

Yes, this was caused by the parallelogram flying up too fast. The Focomat has a strong spring that controls going up and down. When the enlarger is shipped this spring must be taken off. Or, before dismantling, the parallelogram must be brought down and then taped up to prevent it from opening. The error can also happen when the enlarger stands in working position. Have a look at the black part of your enlarger where it touches the broken part. You may find the signs of the impact. Many accidents happen because of wrong packing. The other day a friend had a 1c transported to him and he asked the seller to take the column of the baseboard. The seller didn't do that and the result was predictable: a ruined baseboard.

 

If you haven't done so yet you better attach the enlarger to the column and gently move it up and down to find out if all works as normal. Nothing should block the movement and it should be a silent, smooth operation.

 

I checked and I do have the part that slides over the column and would be happy to give it to you. However, it is now still part of a whole parallelogram. If your parallelogram has suffered from the impact, I may as well give you everything.

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Used a borrowed 50 elmar enlarging lens.  Not happy at all.

 

The first version of the focotar was made for 5x prints.  8X starts getting iffy.

 

You want the large element version made by Schneider which looks just like a factor or focotar 2.

 

For auto focus to work properly,  the lens must be exactly 50 mm.  Most are not.

 

The black head MUST USE the old short neck enlarging bulbs to avoid vignetting.  The Grey egg shape can be adjusted for either.  Lots of luck finding a short neck one.

 

Send this thing back while you can.  Claim broken in transit.

Edited by tobey bilek
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Tobey, I respectfully disagree

 

The first version Focotar 50/4.5 when stopped down twice is very ok. For sure up to 30X40cm. I think to learn to print, a 1c with that Focotar is fine. People can then upgrade to either one of the later two Focotars. After all, you and I also did not start using a 1c with Focotar-2 or the Schneider made Focotar, did we?

 

And, I much prefer someone tries to repair this beautiful enlarger and learn something about it while at it. Every saved quality enlarger is a plus in analogue's battle to survive.

 

Finally, in the past two years I found about ten short neck bulbs in 150 watt ! The 75 watt is still easier.

 

Michael

Edited by M.Hilo
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