Scanning negatives using a Leica S

[Guest NEIL-D-WILLIAMS]

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Guys

I am just getting into film photography and last night I read an article on scanning negatives with a DSLR camera. My question is;

1. Do any of you do that, and if so how successful are the scans
2. If I was to try this I was thinking of using my Leica S plus 120mm Macro
3. Would the IQ be better with say the  Phottek 120 scanner (I think thats what they call it)
4. Any links to different setups if I decided to go down this path?

Thanks in advance

[jaapv]

Neil, first get some negatives worth scanning. You might consider getting your best shots scanned professionally and use the scans provided by your developing lab first. A good lab will scan to 50 MB. There is plenty you can do with that.

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[EoinC]

Jaap is right, Neil. Using your S006 will be fine, but get some negatives scanned commercially first.

To make decent use of the DSLR digitising, you need a copystand or similar set-up, a light table or similar consistent backlighting set-up, and a method to ensure the negative is held flat. It is definitely achievable, but it takes a bit of work. You can bracket shots to try to increase the Dmax range, then combine in HDR.

 

The Plustek 120 is a very capable scanner, but it's main feature to distinguish it from the Plustek 8100, 8200, and 135, is that it scans 120 film. You really need to figure out what your intended output is going to be, as the law of diminishing returns steps in fairly early. Many people reduce the resolution of their scans from the maximum, as time and file size can hit hard, with little or no visible difference. If you read up about the available scanning software (basically Vuescan and Silverlight), you'll see that they are not as user-friendly as the other software we experience these days.

 

Try to wean yourself off B&H until you've had a few rolls shot, developed, and scanned. I think it's only after you've done this that you'll have a clear idea of what you actually want out of this.

[Guest NEIL-D-WILLIAMS]

Jaap is right, Neil. Using your S006 will be fine, but get some negatives scanned commercially first.

To make decent use of the DSLR digitising, you need a copystand or similar set-up, a light table or similar consistent backlighting set-up, and a method to ensure the negative is held flat. It is definitely achievable, but it takes a bit of work. You can bracket shots to try to increase the Dmax range, then combine in HDR.

 

The Plustek 120 is a very capable scanner, but it's main feature to distinguish it from the Plustek 8100, 8200, and 135, is that it scans 120 film. You really need to figure out what your intended output is going to be, as the law of diminishing returns steps in fairly early. Many people reduce the resolution of their scans from the maximum, as time and file size can hit hard, with little or no visible difference. If you read up about the available scanning software (basically Vuescan and Silverlight), you'll see that they are not as user-friendly as the other software we experience these days.

 

Try to wean yourself off B&H until you've had a few rolls shot, developed, and scanned. I think it's only after you've done this that you'll have a clear idea of what you actually want out of this.

 

Eoin

I'm not going to buy anything in the near future, I was just trying to understand what the best way to get the best IQ from a negative to a RAW file.........is it a scanner or a DSLR (Scanner meaning something less than $1000 bucks)

I have a Leica S-006 with a 120mm macro lens. And I have tripods.

[otto.f]

Eoin

I'm not going to buy anything in the near future, I was just trying to understand what the best way to get the best IQ from a negative to a RAW file.........is it a scanner or a DSLR (Scanner meaning something less than $1000 bucks)

I have a Leica S-006 with a 120mm macro lens. And I have tripods.

 

In that case I would go for the S option. There are serious forum members here who do it to satisfaction with a Canon 5DwhateverMark. 

Edited March 27, 2016 by otto.f

[Jeff S]

http://www.l-camera-forum.com/topic/256236-leica-s-for-negative-scanning/

 

http://www.l-camera-forum.com/topic/255515-is-anyone-doing-slide-duplication-using-the-s/

 

If digital printing is the output goal, just use the S (or M or Q) to make print-worthy pics in the first place.   

 

Seriously, though, you'll get far more PP flexibility starting with a digital file, and without all the hassles learning how to scan to your satisfaction.  Like the rest of photography, it's mostly not about the equipment used....no different than for darkroom work, which you could learn instead if working with film is your latest thing.  

 

Others will vehemently disagree....just my 2 cents, recognizing your history as we know it.  The good news is that you try stuff (with or without research...or patience).   The next 3 months will be interesting, Neil.

 

Jeff 

Edited March 27, 2016 by Jeff S

[EoinC]

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Eoin

I'm not going to buy anything in the near future, I was just trying to understand what the best way to get the best IQ from a negative to a RAW file.........is it a scanner or a DSLR (Scanner meaning something less than $1000 bucks)

I have a Leica S-006 with a 120mm macro lens. And I have tripods.

In that case, Neil, go for the S006 option. You just need a light source (not hot!), and a method of keeping the negatives flat. There are plenty of Youtube vids on how to put something together.

Like Jeff and others have said, digital representations of film (whether by scanning or using a DSLR) do not bring out the best of it. The best is achievable through wet printing. Digitising will, however, give you something to view and share (Negatives are not that good for passing around at a party).

[Guest NEIL-D-WILLIAMS]

In that case I would go for the S option. There are serious forum members here who do it to satisfaction with a Canon 5DwhateverMark. 

 

Also mate I have no intention to shoot 120 film (Leica don't have a 120 film camera) so no need in me getting one of those....I think ?

[otto.f]

Also mate I have no intention to shoot 120 film (Leica don't have a 120 film camera) so no need in me getting one of those....I think ?

 

 Nope

[Guest NEIL-D-WILLIAMS]

http://www.l-camera-forum.com/topic/256236-leica-s-for-negative-scanning/

 

http://www.l-camera-forum.com/topic/255515-is-anyone-doing-slide-duplication-using-the-s/

 

If digital printing is the output goal, just use the S (or M or Q) to make print-worthy pics in the first place.   

 

Seriously, though, you'll get far more PP flexibility starting with a digital file, and without all the hassles learning how to scan to your satisfaction.  Like the rest of photography, it's mostly not about the equipment used....no different than for darkroom work, which you could learn instead if working with film is your latest thing.  

 

Others will vehemently disagree....just my 2 cents, recognizing your history as we know it.  The good news is that you try stuff (with or without research...or patience).   The next 3 months will be interesting, Neil.

 

Jeff 

 

I looked at you links Jeff and have now joined one of them ....... Thanks for that.

One outstanding question is the M6 with the 0.85 VF and 35mm lens. I've googled the shit out of it and from what I can see is that there is mixed thoughts on it but I also see that there is a higher percentage of folks saying the 0.85 is the best. The M6 TTL that I am getting has the 0.85 VF

Rick the optician says he will help me get my eyes/glasses/diopter sorted out so fingers crossed I will be able to get back shooting rangefinder again .......... starting on Saturday :)

[EoinC]

What is "best' depends on which lenses you are using. The 0.85 should be fine for the 35mm.

[Jeff S]

 

One outstanding question is the M6 with the 0.85 VF and 35mm lens. I've googled the shit out of it and from what I can see is that there is mixed thoughts on it but I also see that there is a higher percentage of folks saying the 0.85 is the best. The M6 TTL that I am getting has the 0.85 VF

 

 

It's not a survey question; it's what works for you.  Depends on whether you wear glasses, your comfort and preferences for seeing the VF and frame lines (and being able to see around them), etc.  This is one reason why some people like the RF experience, some not.  And some people prefer add-on magnifiers so that they can decide to use for some lenses and not others.

 

Rick should help you nail down the numbers so that important variables are understood and accommodated (he helped me as well).....the rest is up to you.  

 

Jeff

Edited March 28, 2016 by Jeff S

[Guest NEIL-D-WILLIAMS]

 

 

Rick should help you nail down the numbers so that important variables are understood and accommodated (he helped me as well).....the rest is up to you.  

 

Jeff

 

Thats what I am hoping